Nuts to vegetarians

When it comes to eating meat, I stopped 40 years ago in 1983. I recall the last meaty meal I ate, mostly because it was a mistake, an oversight. Invited to dinner with some work friends I had neglected to tell them that I was a vegetarian. Completely forgot to say, that is, until a big bowl of steaming spag bol was placed in front of me. Appealing as it was, it seemed, to all the other guests, I had to steel myself to tackle it.

For some reason I always found it difficult, often embarrassing, to 'admit' to being a vegetarian. As if it was shameful. In those days it was unusual to not want to eat meat, and all sorts of assumptions would be made about those who dared to deny the ritual of cooking and consuming flesh. More recently vegetarianism, and veganism in particular, have become almost fashionable in some places. There are even environmental campaigners who say that the only was to save the planet is to stop farming animals for food or any other need.

Then, I felt, it was something to avoid discussing. So I said nothing and manfully chomped my way through my last mouthfuls of ground beef, recalling ever after, that my last meal made with meat was a spaghetti Bolognese.

I manfully chomped my way through my last taste of ground beef

A year or two later, when I had left my white-collar job to go back to school, I was faced by the same dilemma when invited to dine with one of my newfound college friends. This time I hadn't forgotten I was a vegetarian. I no longer recall if I mentioned it, or if my friend Colleen knew.

When I arrived at the apartment Colleen shared with her partner, bottle of nondescript red wine in hand, I felt immediately welcome. It was just the three of us for dinner which was cosy, friendly and intimate. I don't really remember the partner's name and he mostly left me and Colleen to chat as she prepared the meal in the tiny kitchen-diner. She was a truly engaging person to talk to. Like me, Colleen was returning to education from a full-time job. In her case, mental health nursing, and she had some great stories to tell. She grew up in a remote village and shared plenty of anecdotes about rural life. As we talked, I was able to watch her prepare the meal. Pasta with walnut sauce was something I would never have thought of, and I remember the recipe exactly, having used it many times since.

Pasta with walnut sauce

Ingredients: walnut pieces, a light oil, pasta of your choice, garlic (optional), salt

Method: Grind up the walnuts to a very fine paste. For extra crunch you can add some coarsely chopped walnuts but the finely ground walnut is essential to make the sauce.

Start to cook the pasta in seasoned boiling water in a pan

Add some oil to another pan over a low heat and scrape the ground walnut into the oil. Keep the heat low and stir frequently. It is important not to let the walnut get too hot or the taste will become more bitter. Add a generous pinch of salt. This, too, helps to balance the bitterness of the walnut flavor.

After a minute or two, ladle a little of the pasta water into the walnut paste and keep stirring and keep the heat just high enough to simmer the sauce. After another minute or two, add some more water. The flour that has dissolved into the pasta water helps to emulsify the walnut paste, which is why you leave the pasta to cook for a few minutes (less if 'fresh' pasta) before using any of the water. You need just enough water to make a sauce, don't overdo it and end up with a runny gravy.

Once the pasta is cooked, drain off the water and add the pasta to the sauce, stirring until the sauce and pasta are properly combined. Serve in bowls with a garnish.

Chatting to my friend as she cooked, I was struck by how simple and basic this recipe was. Fewer ingredients than a classic spaghetti pomodoro. I was also surprised that you could make a pasta sauce with just walnuts, salt, oil and water. I don't think she used garlic, but when I have made it since, I have usually added garlic, finely chopped mushrooms and a little soy sauce. I often use soy to enhance the flavor of mushrooms and to darken the color of the food. With this dish I think it would also be good to top the pasta bowl with some more exotic varieties of mushroom, coarsely chopped (or served whole, depending on the variety) perhaps sautéed for a minute or two in olive oil or butter and garlic.

Sitting eating such simple fare, in the kitchen-diner of the couple's tiny rented apartment, was simply divine. I can think of few meals I have had with friends to top that. In fact I can't think of any. Although neither of my hosts were vegetarian, it was clear that Colleen was as happy to cook without meat as she was to cook with it. It did not seem to be a chore to her to have to entertain a vegetarian.

Conversation was warm, engaging and varied. I always think it is easier to have a dinner conversation with three or four people than it is to have a conversation between just two. I was very much single at the time but did not feel like I was the awkward third person making a crowd. If two's company, why not three? And the one thing we didn't discuss was why I was a vegetarian. Not to mention: "Don't you miss bacon sandwiches?" "Do you eat chicken?" and "What do you eat?"

Turns out, walnut is quite versatile in cooking. I have also made walnut casserole. Meat-eating guests tell me it is as good as any meat-based casserole they have ever had. You hardly need a recipe to make it as it is pretty much the same as any casserole. You just substitute walnuts for the meat.

Walnut casserole: Add some water and vegetable stock to a casserole dish (or slow-cooker) with chopped tomatoes and mixed herbs, and your favorite casserole vegetables. Mushrooms go so well with walnuts that I usually add some button mushrooms, having browned them with garlic in oil. Soy sauce will darken the stock and add flavor but don't overdo it. Salt is needed to balance the bitter taste of the walnut. Cook slowly and, if you like, you can finish it by taking the lid off, grating some cheese on top, and raising the heat (or put under a grill) to brown the cheese. Goes well with chunky wholemeal bread and/or dumplings.

On the subject of dumplings, ground walnut makes a glorious savory addition to dumpling mixture, with a sprinkle of mixed dried herbs. Another great use for ground walnut is to add to chopped mushroom stalks (removed from button or field mushrooms), garlic, a little oil or melted butter and dash of soy. Add breadcrumbs to form a coarse dough and spoon the mixture into the mushroom heads. Heat open-side-up in a moderate oven or grill for 7-10 minutes and serve as a side, or main with vegetables, bread or French fries. Or pretty much anything else you like. If you want to be fancy, you can add wine to the mixture. You can also top the upturned mushrooms with grated cheese, a minute or so before the stuffed mushrooms are cooked.

Happy nutty cooking!

Chef Ray

I am beyond delighted to have been selected as a runner up in this challenge. Many thanks to the Vocal Creation Team and to all the other winners. I feel honoured to be in company with such brilliant creators.

Thanks a million

Ray