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Gluten free adventures in Skopje

The Quirky, Off-the-Beaten-Path Gem You Never Knew You Needed

By Spencer HawkenPublished 9 months ago 5 min read
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Food in Soul Kitchen, photographed by yours truly.

Picture this: a city that's a little bit odd, a little bit magical, and a whole lot of fun! Welcome to Skopje, the capital of North Macedonia – a place that feels like it's in a world of its own, just waiting for you to discover its hidden treasures. Better still, North Macedonia is one of the safest Eastern European countries for coeliacs.

Now, let's be real – North Macedonia might not be on your list of countries with names you can rattle off without breaking a sweat. But fear not, fellow wanderers! If you've heard of any place here, it's probably Skopje. And if you're a seasoned globetrotter, you might have caught wind of the fabulous Ohrid (pronounced Ok-rid) – the North Macedonians' ultimate holiday destination.

By Pavol Svantner on Unsplash

Forget those mainstream tourist spots; Skopje is where it's at for the savvy explorer. It's like a secret deal on an epic bargain sale, and you won't believe what's in store for you. Widen your eyes right now, because my partner and I traveled for a week from the UK and the whole shebang – flights, a luxurious 5-star stay at Doubletree Hotel – set us back only £670. But the budget dreams don’t end there, because while there we only splurged a mere £200 in total on food, drinks, sightseeing, gifts for the family and even a taxi ride for an entire day. It literally felt like we had won the travel lottery!

The moment we stepped out of the airport, we hopped into a taxi that took us on an almost desert like ride for the best part of 45 minutes – and all it cost was £12! In the UK, that cab ride would barely cover a hop around the corner with Uber.

Upon arrival we hoofed it to the city from our hotel after a thirty minute siesta. It took a brisk 45-minute walk to reach the city centre traveling along the river path, because, you know, that's how you discover the real gems En route realised we were truly onto a winner when hunting for drinks we bought a Coke or Lipton Ice Tea (I can't remember which) and Natalie’s slightly healthier bottle of water for a laughable 50p in UK currency, or if you like about 60 cents. You can bet your bottom Denar (that's their currency) you’ll struggle for better value anywhere else in Europe. Better still both were in larger quantities than we would find in the UK where the average bottle is 500ml, these were 900ml for just a handful of change for a refreshing beverage.

As we strolled along the riverside, we couldn't ignore the jaw-dropping contrasts. Imagine this: you've got a mega-shopping center packed with luxury brands then smack bang in front a proper shanty town, cobbled together with bits and bobs, the residents pulled from the river. This is a city where you literally have it all or nothing at all, but when the average wage is just the equivalent of £1000 a month it’s hardly surprising.

Now, I'm a gluten-free guru, and the idea of accidentally eating gluten is my worst nightmare especially in a foreign climb, in the UK I’ve been “glutened” a dixenntimes, but never once while travelling. Skopje know how to treat cautious travellers . Most restaurants had nifty graphical guides showing off their dishes, so I never had to play the guessing game. Kudos to you, Skopje, for having the foresight to highlight ingredients in such a way, France and Germany could learn an awful lot from the North Macedonians.

By Aleksandar Kyng on Unsplash

Alright, let's talk food hotspots.

First up, "Soul Kitchen" – oh, what a hip and happening place! Packed with tourists and local hipsters, it's the spot to be. I dove into some mouthwatering risotto and fries, while my partner devoured pasta with a side salad. And guess what? Our came to the princely sum of £12 including three drinks, I was greedy and had two.

Next stop, "Kolectiv." They had my gluten-free pizza game on point, and my partner joined the party with an Aperol Spritz. We left with our tummies happy and only £15 lighter. The place is chilled during the day, but at night has parties and plays all the important sporting events.

Now, here's where the adventure gets spicier. In the bazaar – we stumbled upon this soup house that didn't even have a name we could pronounce! But who cares when the soup is like heaven in a bowl? It was gluten-free after I passed the accompanying breast to my partner, who was happy with the unexpected gift. This hidden gem served us not once, but twice during our stay. And cost us £6 on each occasion, we also had a drink on both occasions, though I can’t for the life of me remember what.

Ah, the Doubletree by Hilton – our home away from home. Nights here were cozy and comforting, especially after a day of exploring. And the food? Oh, boy, the choices were endless! The five-star service was like a hug from a friendly giant it cost us a mere £20 for both of us, back home this would easily have been £100 a head. Better still the gluten free options for me seemed endless, risotto, pasta, even chicken with vegetables and gravy.

By Toa Heftiba on Unsplash

Now, let's face it – Skopje isn't perfect. There were moments when we felt like the curious outsiders. But hey, what's life without a few quirks? People stared, a few tried to ”encourage us“ to give them cash, without menace I should add. But there is definitely an “edge” to the city at night, but if your staying in a nice hotel and concerned about what’s outside at night, just stay there.

The city is filled with beautiful buildings and statues, but you can barely find one that has not been covered in graffiti. Speaking of statues, you’ll never find more in any city you ever visit — they are everywhere here. Apparently, the country’s former rulers were once told that you could tell the wealth of a city based on its statues, so they went out of their way to put up as many as they could. On one bridge, we found 30 statues; you’ll even find them in and under the water.

So, there you have it – Skopje, the city of surprises, quirky vibes, and budget-friendly wonders. It's a place where the unknown is your playground and your tastebuds will dance with delight. If you dream of travel without breaking the bank, Skopje is your ticket to an unforgettable adventure! So pack those bags, and let the adventure begin!

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About the Creator

Spencer Hawken

I'm a fiftysomething guy with a passion for films, travel and gluten free food. I work in property management, have a history in television presentation and am a multi award wining filmmaker, even though my films are/were all trash.

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  • Scott Christenson9 months ago

    Skopje! Interesting article. I haven't even heard of that city despite travelling in that zone last year. (all i ate was bread, bread, bread, mixed with pizza, in croatia last year) And good work locating gluten-free food there. in Europe everywhere from france and italy, through the balkans into greece, sort of felt like the gluten-belt to me. Travel through the northern potato belt, or the asian rice belt would be a breeze for you. They even have rice, bean and sweet potato noodles very commonly thoughout southern china & SE asia

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