My Adventure in Iraq

I am not going to lie. I like food, and I love trying food from different cultures around the world. At home in the United States and abroad during my travels, I have had the opportunity to be exposed to and try foods from India, China, South Korea, Afghanistan, various European countries, Latin American and the Caribbean, and the Middle East. The one dish I will never forget is one I had in Iraq, not because it was the greatest, but how I was introduced to it.

I served in Iraq from 2006-2007, and during my time there, I was introduced to Iraqi food. The majority of the food I was exposed to included boiled goat meat served with rice pilaf, bread, and vegetables. The food was served on large platters where everyone would grab the food with their hands and eat. I was informed that it was considered an honor if someone offered you food with their hands. The food was decent but not memorable since the food I was offered had little seasoning and spices. I joked with my Iraqi counterparts if they missed grabbing the spices when they came across the famed silk and space road caravans.

The one dish I remember was Masgouf, grilled Carp, which is famous throughout Iraq. I was introduced to Masgouf because I had opened my mouth to local Iraqis about my love for seafood. One of my jobs in Iraq was engaging with local tribes, and a technique I employed involved sharing stories about myself to make everyone at ease. I shared with the Iraqis that I was a New Yorker who loved the Atlantic seashore and told them stories about eating seafood like swordfish, lobster, shrimp, etc.

One day, I attended an event at a sheik’s house in Ramadi. The Iraqis brought out the typical goat meat, grilled chicken, rice pilaf, and bread. At the same time, the Iraqis were excited to share a particular dish they had prepared for me. They surprised me with two platters of Masgouf that looked delicious. I asked them where they got the fish from and whether it was fresh. They informed me that the fish was freshly caught that morning. I pressed them again about the freshness of the fish and where they caught the Carp. It dawned on me that they caught the Carp in the Euphrates River near where I was standing.

I thought about the Carp and the Euphrates for a few minutes. I realized that Carp is a bottom-feeding fish, and in the 2006-2007 timeframe, the Euphrates River was heavily polluted with chemical waste and unfortunate victims of Iraqi’s sectarian civil war. Despite this realization, I knew I could not refuse to eat the fish. I tried the Masgouf and was pleasantly surprised. It was nicely grilled, well-seasoned, and the white meat was tender. In some ways, it reminded me of blackened fish I had at home, like catfish.

The Masgouf was a tasty treat in Iraq. I told myself that if I ever get cancer from eating polluted fish, it was my fault for opening my mouth in the first place. I have not eaten Masgouf since I left Iraq in 2007; however, if I ever get the chance to go back to Iraq when it is peaceful, I will order it again.