Island time, Island Flavor

I first stepped foot onto an old, weathered dock on Isla Mujeres, Quintano Roo, Mexico twenty-two years ago. Since that time, I have visited several times, and I always prefer to take the slow, old, open-sided ferry to the small island. Sure, there are speedy, air-conditioned express ferries that will get you there in half the time, but I find that slowly putting across the clear, calm, turquoise waters of the Bay of Mujeres while sitting next to a crate of limes and a cage of chickens really sets the tone for stepping into the relaxed pace that is “island time.”

“Isla Mujeres” literally translates to “island of women,” but stories vary about how the tiny island came to be known by this name. Some say that it was named for the numerous female deities that were found amid the carvings and ruins left by Mayas that once inhabited the area. One tale claims that the Virgin Mary walks the beach as a ward of protection for local fishermen. A large statue of Mary sits atop the Catholic church in the center of the village square or “zocalo.” I’ve been told that when the Spanish brought Catholicism to the island, they emphasized feminine iconography like Mary, because local residents were more comfortable with the sacred feminine that is imbued in their familiar Mayan and Chiapas cultures. The most pervasive and convincing tale is one that involves pirates. Legend claims that years ago, when pirates were common in the area, they would kidnap women and bring them to the island, then leave them with no means of escape. The men would occasionally return with treasures, food, spices, or meat, but for the most part, the island was only inhabited by women and children. The captives in paradise spent their time growing vegetables, cooking, fishing, repairing nets, making hammocks, clothing, and other handicrafts, and tending to children. There is evidence to support some version of each of these narratives, but I tend to think that the truth lies in a blend of all these stories.

Much like its history, the food on Isla Mujeres tends to be a combination of many influences. While diverse cultures are certainly a substantial influence, other factors such as supply availability, freshness, health, creativity, and consumer demand also play a part.

Historically, Isla Mujeres has always been a fishing village. While it currently draws a great number of tourists for snorkeling, scuba diving, and exploring reefs, there is also an abundance of fresh seafood to be had. When in a restaurant, ask what is fresh. Better restaurants will actually bring the raw fish to your table for you to inspect and select. Be cautious if you are told that “everything is fresh” – most servers have opinions about the food and are happy to tell you what is good, and make recommendations. One of my favorite “unusual” seafood offerings is conch. Much like a scallop, fresh conch is sweet, tender, and delicious. Conch that’s not fresh is rubbery like a pencil eraser and nearly impossible to chew. Don’t be afraid to try something new or exotic, but also ask what’s fresh, and when it was caught.

It is not uncommon to find local fishermen selling their fresh catch door to door or on the street. I once bought 2.5 kilos of fresh shrimp from a man that was carrying his catch from restaurant to restaurant in a 5 gallon bucket. I think I paid about $20 US for nearly six pounds of the freshest, most delicious shrimp I have ever eaten. We steamed and ate them with cocktail sauce for lunch, then invited friends over for dinner featuring shrimp, a lot of garlic, homemade cream sauce, and spaghetti.

For some reason, spaghetti is a popular side dish that is offered instead of or in addition to rice in many island restaurants. It can be purchased in the local grocery stores for about 20 (US) cents a pound. My thrifty father was thrilled, but I found my homemade “Alfredo sauce” a bit disappointing because I had to use margarine instead of real butter. Even when having lobster, it is quite rare to get real butter because it’s expensive to import, requires refrigeration, and tends to melt.

Where lobster is concerned, I recommend trying it if you are able! Warm water Caribbean lobsters are smaller, sweeter, and more tender than their cold-water cousins in the north Atlantic. You won’t even miss the butter while devouring the tender morsels. Again, if you’re having them in a restaurant, make sure that they are fresh-caught.

Don’t be afraid to try new and exotic foods, or hole-in-the-wall restaurants. Some of the best meals that I’ve had have been in tiny restaurants run out of people’s homes, or in places that are away from the main tourist areas where locals eat. A “loncheria” is a place that is usually only open for lunch and may only serve food from about 11-3 each day. They usually have a limited menu and a daily special that is often soup. Ask if there is a “comida del dia” (food of the day,) and give it a try! My favorite Isla loncheria charges about $2 US for their daily special. They also have amazing hand-cut French fries for about $1.

One of the more unusual dishes that I’ve been served as a “daily special” was a soup with a chicken stock base, bone-in chicken, large chunks of zucchini, carrots, and plantain, as well as green olives. The skin was still on the chicken and the plantain slices, and there were pits in the olives, but it was filling and weirdly delicious. If nothing else, my $2 bought me a story of “banana olive soup” that I still like to tell.

“Spanglish” is commonly used among tourists and locals alike. Many older residents still commonly use bits of the Mayan language, particularly when referencing food, plants, or fish. One style of cooking that doesn’t quite translate to either English or Spanish is “tik y xic” (pronounced “teek ee sheek.”) This traditional Mayan meal consists of fresh fish rubbed in achote paste, spices, and citrus juice, then cooked with onions and citrus over a charcoal fire. It’s usually served with tortillas, rice, shredded cabbage or lettuce, limes, and sometimes spaghetti. The flavor is incredible.

Street fare is also delicious on Isla Mujeres. There is definitely more to be had on weekends and holidays, but most days you can find grilled street corn, fresh squeezed juice served with a straw in a plastic bag, bacon-wrapped hot dogs, fresh bread and pastry, fresh corn tortillas, tacos al pastor – crispy bits of grilled and seasoned pork served with a chunk of pineapple, fried churros, and other offerings. One of my favorite memories was driving a golf cart alongside the beach one hot day. My friend and I were both in bathing suits and stopped to get a couple of homemade coconut popsicles from a street vendor, then raced to eat them before they melted. We lost. We laughed as the coconut goodness melted down our arms and blew all over our bodies. We both had to jump in the water to wash off the sticky mess, and it was so much fun!

Even more “street vendors” come out on holidays in the form of Islena “church ladies” that set up folding tables in front of the church on Christmas and New Year’s Eves. For a few pesos, they will provide you incredible homemade tamales, mole, flan, or other delights. The best flan I’ve ever had was from one such lady, and came served in a plastic cup with a plastic spoon. Pure heaven.

Besides tix y xic, I think the most iconic food that is commonly found on Isla Mujeres is ceviche. You can get certain types of ceviche, but it’s usually served “mixto” with a mix of various bits of raw seafood that becomes “cooked” in the acidity of lime juice. The seafood is mixed with onions, tomatoes, cilantro, peppers, garlic, and salt, then served with fried tortillas, saltine crackers, or tortilla chips. It’s like pico de gallo, but with chunks of fresh seafood. I could eat it non-stop, so I’m glad that it can be found at many bars and restaurants on Isla Mujeres. Every recipe is slightly different, and the most unusual ceviche that I have ever had was from a small, neighborhood stand that made their ceviche with various seafoods including snails that cling to the rocks on the surfside of the island. I can’t say that it’s my favorite, but I can say that I have eaten the unique “ceviche mixto” dish.

“Mixto” is a great word to describe the culture, community, and food offered on Isla Mujeres. You can spend hundreds of dollars on a splendid, five-star meal, or you can spend a few coins on surprise specials from unexpected places. My advice is – try it! Ask around, talk to strangers, talk to locals, and explore the many exciting options on Isla Mujeres!

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