Eating My Way Through German Delicacies

In a delightful twist of fate, I found myself slap bang in the middle of Bavaria, Germany, at the beginning of August 2022. This destination had not been on my five-month digital nomad plan, nor did I imagine that I would spend five weeks with an acquaintance, and her family, that I hadn’t seen in over thirty years.

It was as if the Gods had held a forum to conspire to bring us together and the most wonderful friendship blossomed almost immediately.

Pretzels

In the first two weeks of my stay, my friend was on vacation in France with her husband and two of their children whilst I held down the fort with her oldest daughter until their return. During this time, I took a couple of day trips to Nuremberg and Munich, only sampling one of Germany’s well-known delicacies: the humble pretzel.

Naturally, I had to sample a real German pretzel, known as soft pretzels in North America. What we call pretzels, the Germans call “salt pretzels” once translated, or salty sticks if you are my friend asking for one as she drove.

It was good, slightly warm with a nice, soft dough, and I sucked it down as I wondered through the streets of Nuremberg. Nothing to write home about but a nice snack on a sunny day.

Mountain Cheese Dumplings

Just as my friend and her family returned from vacation, I headed down to Amtzell for a few days to stay with a long-time student and friend and was taken out to a local restaurant with her husband and young daughter.

It was here that I was introduced to mountain cheese dumplings. As the Allgäu region is famous for both its mountains and its cheese, it stands to reason that you can have German dumplings swimming in mountain cheese, which is exactly what I had.

These dumplings are made with day-old bread soaked in boiled milk, after which eggs, onions, herbs, and grated mountain cheese are added, and then they are boiled before being smothered with melted mountain cheese.

Whilst they were tasty and a delicacy of the region, they were far too heavy for me and I could only make it through two of them, handing the third dumpling over to my dinner companions.

Obatzda

It was when I returned to Regensburg that I was introduced to one of Bavaria’s most traditional foods: obatzda, and perhaps the biggest surprise of my culinary experiences in Germany.

I had only been back in my friend’s home for twenty-four hours when she hauled me through the forest to the Danube where we wandered along the shore to a little local beer garden that was a favourite of hers.

Mission: introduce Vanessa to obatzda and radler!

The dish is a classic Bavarian beer garden meal and is made by combining two-thirds camembert with one-third butter and then seasoned with paprika, salt, pepper, and of course, beer! It’s usually served with onions sprinkled liberally on top, even more cheese proffered on the platter, as well as white and red radishes to bring out the flavour. Throw back some radler, beer and lemonade, and you’re slap bang in the middle of a unique Bavarian experience.

I have never been a fan of camembert but didn’t mention it as I have learned to be open to trying new things, and I’m glad that I did as it was supremely delicious. Three cheers to an open mind!

Old Bavarian Potato Soup and Caraway Seed Bread at a Monastery

On one of our adventures, we headed off to the Weltenburger Kloster (monastery) where the monks made beer for centuries until a private brewing company took over brewing rights in 1973, and now produces award-winning beer.

Before a tour of the brewing facilities, we sat down to a lovely meal which included Old Bavarian potato soup and a soft, warm caraway seed loaf. The soup is a staple in Bavaria and very popular for good reason: it was delicious and just the ticket to keep me going as the heavens opened up and we sat under an umbrella finishing our meal.

The bread helped to soak up the beer that we washed it all down with — you can’t miss an opportunity to taste award-winning German beer, now can you?

Blue Potatoes — Yes, Blue

These blew my mind! I’m a sweet potato lover and can make a pie from these orange tubers that have converted many a Canadian to the southern American staple. My father could quite happily live on white potatoes for the rest of his days as his love affair with the white tuber has been true and strong.

But blue potatoes? This I had to see.

What start out looking very purple as they begin their journey from farm to table, become an incredible denim blue after they’ve been cooked and mashed. When I was informed that the deep purple tubers would indeed turn blue upon cooking, I must admit, I scoffed inwardly in disbelief.

I was wrong!

I had no idea that this little delicacy with its subtle flavours existed, and will definitely go in search of the blue wonders on upcoming trips to the grocery store — after all, it is now my solemn duty to share the miracle of this tuber with the world at large!

Lebkuchen

The moment I crossed over the border into Germany, I knew that I would find and eat lebkuchen. I have fond memories of this delicacy from my childhood, and although I was born and raised in South Africa, we had enough German exchange students bringing these treats to share with the savages when they began their year in the deepest, darkest Africa.

Lebkuchen are simply gingerbread cookies with a hard icing or covered in powdered sugar — oh, but they are also so much more! They are honey-sweetened, denser and richer, can contain an array of nuts, and the spices — oh sweet mother of all that is pure and delicious, the spices!

I suggest that you all try a traditional lebkuchen at least once in your life!

The lovely little German delicacy pictured above didn’t stand a chance at a long life, despite telling me that it loved me — it was engulfed by my belly within thirty minutes of being purchased at the Regensburger Dult (festival).

Apple Strudel

Although strudel is traditionally an Austrian dessert, you’ll find it on most German menus. As a die-hard pie lover, I took the opportunity to taste this delicious apple-sugar-buttery-put on 10 pounds and cause you to have an aneurism-decadence! It was worth it!

Although both apple strudel and apple pie contain very similar ingredients, strudel is made with flaky or puff pastry and as such, feels far lighter. It was beyond delicious and as it is not a heavy dessert, didn’t make me drag my feet for the rest of the day.

It sat dancing merrily with my gut microbiomes as a Bavarian polka played joyfully in the background of my psyche.

I Have To Mention Beer

What would an article about German food be without the mention of beer? Before I continue, I must admit to being a Bud Light fan, so keep this in mind as you read my next words!

I always ordered lighter German beers when in a restaurant as I cannot get through a dark brew. I bought a few cans of different pale brands from the local Aldi Süd but found that there was bitterness in the aftertaste.

The lighter offering from Weltenburger Kloster (pictured above) was lovely and it washed down our lunch with expertise. The beer on the right was a little stronger and more bitter, but was still refreshing and well brewed — after all, they are an award-winning brewery.

I enjoyed radler very much, which is simply beer and lemonade and is called a shandy by the British. It is also a beverage that was extremely popular in my family throughout my youth and my mom still enjoys a cold one from time to time on a hot African day.

For all you beer connoisseurs, go with God my children and “prost” your way into German happiness!

My time in Germany was obviously about more than just food, and you’re welcome to watch a few of my adventures on YouTube, but if food be the gift of love, eat on!