Marakesh

Tucked away down a narrow side alley just off the bustling South Street, Marakesh has an unassuming front entrance. You have to knock on the heavy oak door for admission, and it feels like you are entering your own personal Narnia as you pass through the heavy drapes and enter the restaurant.

Somehow you have been transported from the dreary streets of Philly to a vibrant Moroccan souk, with rugs and tapestries hanging all around, low tables and sprawling couches, their many cushions promising an intimate and relaxing evening.

The friendly waiter ushers you inside warmly, there are no strangers in Marakesh. He brings a large bronze bowl and pitcher, then gently pours rose-scented water over your hands. This little ceremony feels like a blessing before the feast, but is actually for practical reasons - the food is traditionally eaten without cutlery. Any establishment that provides a towel for you to use instead of a napkin is sure to make for a memorable evening.

He asks you if you have visited before - if not, he will explain to you how the restaurant works. The meal is 7 courses, with choices of chicken two ways and lamb or kebobs for the entrees. It doesn't matter which you order, we have found everything to be equally delicious.

Marakesh is a BYOB establishment, so if you have brought your own drinks he will open them for you now. If not, don't fret - they have a fairly reasonable drink menu and soft drinks are available too. We ordered Coca Cola and it came in old-fashioned glass bottles, just one more way the restaurant works to immerse you in the cultural experience. We felt transported back to our honeymoon, as we lay back against the silk cushions talking.

The first course arrives almost immediately. A large platter with three different cold vegetable dishes - beautifully spiced eggplant, salty tomato and cucumber salad, and refreshing carrots in a light vinagerette. There are flatbreads to use like spoons and scoop up the delicious starter.

The next course is very unusual - b'stella. How to describe it - like a dessert omelet. The dish is layers of egg and meat, ground almonds and cinammon, wrapped in a crunchy layer of filo pastry and dusted heavily with powdered sugar. Don't knock it till you've tried it! My husband isn't a fan of eggs, so I get to eat most of it by myself. He's saving space for course three - spicy chicken in cumin sauce.

The chicken can seem a little daunting at first, how does one go about eating half a chicken with just their fingers? It is well worth the mess though, the chicken always perfectly moist and deliciously seasoned.

Course 4 is usually the lamb for us. Lightly sweetened with honey and spices, it falls apart in your fingers and you will want to suck the marrow from the bones.

By now you are probably sitting further back in your seat, maybe unfastening your belt a notch. I hope you saved space for course 5, which is a heaping mountain of couscous, with plump raisins and sweet potatos. I'm usually still going strong at this point, but my husband is drunk on meat and more than happy to lounge away, as the belly dancer comes in to entertain the room. She sways and sashays through the intimate room, and it is a good idea to have some change to tip her with.

Course 6 is baklava, sticky, crunchy and sweet, full of delicate pistachios. It is just small enough that you can manage it after the feast.

The waiter is the master of discretion, knowing when to bring each course, never rushing you, but always making sure there is a fresh new dish as soon as the last is eaten. You can easily spend several hours and not feel rushed to leave. He brings you small glasses of hot, sweet mint tea and a generous bowl of fruit. I challenge anyone to eat more than a handful of grapes or strawberries! If you leave Marakesh hungry, there is something wrong with you. We practically have to roll ourselves out.

When you are finished, the waiter comes again with the rose water bathing ritual and leaves the bill for you. It is worth noting this is a cash-only establishment, but at only $25 a head, you are looking to pay around $60 per couple if you BYOB. Remarkably cheap for what is more of an experience than a meal.

Then you walk out through the curtains and into the cool air of the outside world, and you almost want to turn around and see if the door disappeared behind you. Did you really just spend the evening in an exotic faraway land, or was it a dream? Luckily your stomach reminds you it was real. I wouldn't plan anything too strenuous after your visit. You may feel like you could never eat again - but rest assured, you will want to come back.