Gazpacho’s Sister Salmorejo Is the Quintessential Summer Dish

For everything there is a season, and to me, food is no different. Each winter conjures memories of rich soups, the fall, warm scents of cinnamon and nutmeg, and spring, the smells of freshly risen Easter bread. But summer has always been my favourite season for food. When I was younger, summer was heralded by the taste of water fresh from the garden hose, and sticky-sweet creamsicles—when I had the good fortune to scrounge up enough change from between the couch cushions.

As an adult, these foods are just as reminiscent of a warm summer’s day, but my tastes have since become a bit more refined. To me, anyway. Some consider the concept of cold soup a cardinal sin worthy of at least a dozen Hail Marys. An abomination against all that is holy in the world of food.

I was skeptical in my youth, but I am now converted, and pledge my devotion each summer to the gods of gazapacho’s lesser-known sister, salmorejo.

I had my first real salmorejo when I traveled to Spain. It was presented to me in the most unlikely of vessels, a shot glass. True to tapas form, in a small plate of sorts. One thing was sure, it wasn’t alcohol, but it was certainly intoxicating.

Yes, it is technically fruit soup. But ask a grilled cheese sandwich if it minds being dipped into a hot tomato soup on a cold night, and I doubt you would hear a rebuttal. This is how I feel about cold tomato soup of on a hot summer’s day. It just works.

Food is funny like that. Certain foods just taste better when the timing is right.

In the peak of summer, when the tomatoes are in their prime, this is when salmorejo shines. You can make it year-round, and even buy it in the local markets throughout most of the year, but the ingredients are best when the days are long, and the sun stretches longer into the evening.

Plump tomatoes blend effortlessly with a subtle hint of garlic, a taste of sherry vinegar, and a generous glug (or several) of extra virgin olive oil. High quality olive oil is essential, and if you close your eyes, you can taste the warm Spanish sun.

The texture is silky smooth, and the colour a pale orange. The secret is stale bread.

It is a humble soup, perfect for cooling off during the hottest summer days. No sweating over a hot hob or spending hours in the kitchen chopping vegetables. Topped with a confetti of hardboiled egg, and for some, a smattering of serrano ham, it is a filling meal in a bowl.

But don’t take my word for it! I dare you to embrace your inner Andalusian, and embark on this culinary adventure yourself. You will find many variations on a theme in almost any household in España, but I offer my recipe below:

Prep time: 10 minutes, optional marination overnight

Ingredients:

1 raw egg

1 cup / 8 oz. high quality extra virgin olive oil, and drizzle to taste

1 stale baguette (about 16 oz. of stale bread)

2 lb. / 32 oz. ripe tomatoes

2-3 Tablespoons sherry vinegar or red wine vinegar to taste

1-2 cloves of garlic

1 hardboiled egg (optional)

Serrano ham (optional)

Serving Size: 4 people (or 1. No judgements)

Method:

The order of ingredients is important!

1. Place the raw egg and olive oil into the blender, blend for 30-60 seconds—trust me. This essentially makes mayonnaise as the base of the soup. Yes, you do need this much olive oil. Maybe more, if you dare.

2. Take the center out of the baguette, tear the bread into pieces.

3. Remove the cores from the tomatoes. For a smoother texture, also remove the skins of the tomatoes by scalding them briefly. Boil tomatoes for 30 seconds, place into cold water, and cut an X on the top of each tomato. The skin should peel easily.

4. Blend the tomatoes, adding in sherry vinegar, and garlic. If you are eating the soup immediately, the garlic flavor will be more intense. If you plan to let the soup sit overnight, the flavors will meld.

5. Add the baguette pieces to the blender. For a thicker texture, add more bread.

6. For a smoother texture, sieve the salmorejo with a tamis or sifter (optional).

7. Drizzle olive oil into each bowl

8. Top with crumbled pieces of hardboiled egg and pieces of serrano ham (optional). You can also add chives for color or olives for garnish. Let your palette be your guide!

Something magical happens when the salmorejo is allowed to sit overnight. You will finally know what it means to taste the soul of a tomato, and if it isn’t already, olive oil will be your new love language. Pair it with a chilled tinto verano, and you have a meal fit for summer. ¡Qué aproveche!