California Dreaming

This time of year is usually reserved for comfort foods - rich, filling, and warm. However, this dish takes me back to the coast of California, where my girlfriend lives aboard her yacht in Marina Del Rey. She is smart, scrappy and is also a naturally good chef. So good, in fact, that she was requested as a private, personal chef on a charter where the chef had unfortunately been diagnosed with COVID-19. She was in the midst of getting her captain's license, so was in easy contact with the desperate captain but hey, what an opportunity! The beautiful thing is we had a behind the scenes view of the menu as it came together and, on her return, hosted a celebratory meal with friends that featured some of those dishes. I am always curious to watch her at work, somehow managing to never look frazzled or inconvenienced while operating in her tight galley kitchen. Every meal feels like it is produced in a five-star Michelin restaurant.

This one is too good not to share, though it's probably more desirable in the spring and summer. Every time I make it, I now think back to sitting around the kitchen table on her boat, the warm ocean air sweeping through the cabin as the California sun gently exits from the sky. It reminds me of good company, good conversations, and feeling both nourished and satisfied.

It's easy to make yet tastes as though you are really rolling out the red carpet for your guests. Meanwhile, you'll never break a sweat. The acidity of the orange and lemon add wonderful crisp tones to the dish without being overpowering, and provide a colorfulness that will bring joy to your heart even before the first bite hits your stomach. The fennel adds in a brightness that is delectable during the warmer months. Pair with some fresh bread to soak up all the delicious juices. This can also be served over greens. I promise this dish is a winner.

Ingredients

• 1 small fennel bulb, thinly sliced
• 1 blood or navel orange, very thinly sliced, seeds removed
• 1 Meyer or regular lemon, very thinly sliced, seeds removed
• 1 red Fresno chile or jalapeño, with seeds, thinly sliced
• 4 sprigs dill, plus more for serving
• Kosher salt and coarsely ground black pepper
• 1 1/2 pounds skinless salmon fillet, preferably center-cut
• 3/4 cup olive oil
• Flaky sea salt (such as Maldon)

Preparation

Preheat oven to 275°. The key to this dish is the slow roasting!

Toss the fennel, orange slices, lemon slices, chile and 4 dill sprigs in a shallow 3-quart baking dish. Season with kosher salt and pepper. Season salmon with kosher salt and place on top of fennel mixture. Pour oil over.

Roast the salmon until it is just cooked through (the tip of a knife will slide through easily and flesh will be slightly opaque), 30 – 40 minutes.

Transfer salmon to a platter, breaking it into large pieces as you go. Spoon fennel mixture and oil from baking dish over; discard dill sprigs. Season with flaky sea salt and pepper and top with fresh dill sprigs.

It is a lovely light meal to gather around and pairs well with a nice dry white wine, if you choose. Song suggestion: "Crowded Table" by the Highwomen...

Bon appetit, my friends!