At Memphis Whistle, cozy vibes, craft cocktails, and creative cuisine take center stage.

Mixologist Jef Hicks is hard at work on Young Avenue, surrounded by the purple glow of bungalow bar lights.

The soft-spoken Hicks greets his first customer of the night, a neighborhood native eager for a taste of Cooper-newest Young's nightlife, Memphis Whistle, behind bright eyes and a big smile.

Hicks co-founded Memphis Whistle, a cocktail delivery business, during the pandemic. He's given the joint a brick-and-mortar home two years later, after six months of hammering away at Cooper-Young with creative chef Kyle Gairhan and fellow North End comrade Winifred Henry.

Whistle's approach is symbolized by a large jar of Bloody Mary mix positioned high on a shelf overlooking the restaurant's handcrafted bar. It's more necessary to tell Hicks what you like here than it is to read a drink menu. Give him a few simple ideas and he'll take care of the rest.

"I prefer mixing beverages that I make up on the spot the most," he explains. "I enjoy it when I get to ask them three or four questions to get a sense of their preferences." What kind of spirit do you prefer? Do you prefer sweet or sour foods? Is there anything in particular that you dislike? You acquire those answers and run over your mental rolodex of what you know before coming up with a fresh riff."

Yeah, you can have a typical old fashioned or martini at Memphis Whistle (and they'll probably be among the greatest in recent memory), but this bar really shines when it comes to mastery. Indulge in a visual delight with a handpicked variety of absinthe ready to light up the room, or rely on the staff to build an unique cocktail for your taste.

I decided to put the house absinthe game to the test after daring a Beretta. Hicks, who has a thing for fire-based cocktails, whipped up a few different concoctions before letting a slow flame create a liquorice-flavored, high-volume spirit. The experience—set among lighting bottles of house-infused liqueurs, mortuary decor, and a mystery monkey chair—is still somewhat of a rarity in Memphis, and it wonderfully complements the bar's vibe.

Burgers, bar snacks, and dessert — Gairhan's cuisine, which isn't overpowered by the comprehensive bar service, serves up innovative interpretations on local staples like barbecue nachos, as well as something fresh for vegetarians and meat eaters alike. Gairhan's menu is overflowing with dishes utilizing regionally sourced ingredients, such fried lion's mane mushroom bits (available in four flavors; I sampled the mojo taste, a spin on lemon pepper).

Gairhan's burgers are already challenging longtime city standard bearers like Huey's, with vegan Reubens and blue oyster chili on the menu. "I definitely want to win best burger," says Gairhan, who isn't hesitant about recommending The Central Gardens, Summer Avenue, and Grizz, all of which serve locally reared longhorn burgers.

Gairhan presents an ice cream sandwich filled with purple Ube and green Pandan sugar cookies as the show's finale. This colorful after-party, straight from the set of the Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles, contrasts nicely with the house peanut butter chocolate pie. The combination, served with a cherry or orange-topped Beretta, is one of the city's most delectable desserts.

"We all have a heart for feeding others," Hicks continues. "Whether it's through food, alcohol, conversation, or spirituality." If you want to come out and have a good time, we want you to take care of your day. We've come to make you happy."

References

Joe Sills

Channa's Note:

Memphis is an excellent place to discover new and exciting places to eat. Everything from absinthe at Memphis Whistle to zucchini muffins at Lilee's Gourmet Bakery. Come have a delicious time here.