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The Green behind the Gold

Off the beaten track in northern Australia

By Virginia FrostPublished 4 years ago 3 min read
Purlingbrook Falls, Springbrook

My home is the Gold Coast in Queensland, Australia about an hour's drive from the state capital of Brisbane. It is a major tourist destination for Australians because of its magnificent stretches of beach, glorious weather, shopping, theme parks and nightlife.

But if you're looking for something a bit more real, maybe a trip to our beautiful hinterland with its rainforest, waterfalls, spectacular views and walking trails might suit you better.

The hinterland is known to locals as the "green behind the gold" as visitors need to look past the gold of the beaches and take some time to explore the green of the "bush", as we call it.

Walking through ancient trees reaching towards the sun through the canopy of the rainforest is a primeval feeling, as if time has stood still and no-one has been here before. This is emphasised by the fact that these areas are only accessible by vehicle and the few tours that do go there are very expensive and by necessity only small groups. So it is quite rare to strike many people and often no-one at all.

There are some man made facilities in some areas, such as fences to prevent falls and the occasional long drop toilet. This can be known as an outhouse, covering a pit latrine, not the most luxurious amenity but better than squatting in the bush.

Mostly the walking trails are well laid out and easy to navigate and the wild life is varied and often unique. But you can't always see them, perhaps only hear what sounds like the sharp crack of a whip ringing out through the bush, which is the whipbird or you might spot a green tree frog.

The rainforest in these areas is ancient and part of the Gondwana Rainforests of Australia World Heritage Area. My favorite place is Springbrook National Park, which boasts a spectacular waterfall and views down to the coast.

This area can only be accessed by driving but is only a short 30 minute drive from the coast up quite a windy road, with several one way bridges, meaning you wait your turn if someone else is using it.

The views on the drive up are spectacular of the mountains, to the city below and the Pacific Ocean.

There are several cute little cafes where you can get a coffee and share your food with the local rainbow lorikeets, whether you've offered it or not. These stunning birds are part of the parrot family and are very friendly.

The are a number of beautiful spots in this area but the one that always draws me back is Purlingbrook Falls.

You can follow pathways right to the bottom of the valley and back up in a circuit, swim in the exquisite rock pools created by the crashing waterfall and walk under the rainbow of water cascading down.

The walk is only a few kilometers and you can take your time to explore or just stop, relax and breathe in the tranquility along the way or at the bottom of the waterfall. It is not a difficult walk and can be done in a short time for experienced hikers or in a leisurely stroll over a few hours.

When you reach the top again there is a lookout where you can see over the valley and the circuit you've just travelled. Although the view is stunning on a beautiful clear day, if it has recently rained the cascade over the top of the cliff is breathtaking.

The air is cooler because of the elevation and the feeling is pure and fresh.

It is a place of excitement with the thundering water but also of great peace with no human noise and discord, only pure, unspoiled nature.

australia

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