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Brainerd Below Zero

Art, History, a walk in the park

By Emily LeClairePublished 3 years ago 7 min read
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Historic Brainerd Water Tower captured in evening light.

Though I've always appreciated the allure of the nature in and around Brainerd, it's easy to become desensitized to it's abundance. Born, raised, and currently residing in the central Minnesota lake town, the places I've chosen to highlight here have been engraved in my mind. They are as much a part of me as the people I love. It may sound like an exaggeration, but if you've lived in a community like this, I am sure you can relate. Like anywhere else, we have our faults, but in true Minnesota-nice fashion, I'm going to share the things I love about my hometown. The sights, sounds, and even the chilling arctic cold are home to me.

A small village of fish houses on Rice Lake near the Lum Park Public Access.

Winter in Minnesota is the end-all-beat-all of making lemonade from life's lemons. Living in the Land of 10,000 Lakes (We actually have 11,842 but who's counting) means you never have to venture far to find a body of water. At temperatures of 29 below zero, we drive out onto the lakes, play at the park, and take brisk strolls in the frigid air that would keep most others under fuzzy blankets in well-heated rooms.

"Ice Road" on Rice Lake leading from Lum Park Public Access.

Even the coldest of winters can't keep us off the ice. Many lakes have "ice roads" that dedicated anglers drive on to hit their ice castles for a few hours or even a weekend of fishing.

A bridge covers the frozen stream in a frisbee golf course at Lum Park.

A bevy of footprints pockmark the pure white snow in every direction; evidence of the restless Minnesota Spirit. People and animals alike make our city parks a frequent stop.

Pristine rabbit tracks in snow at Lum Park.

At Gregory Park, tracks are scattered throughout the well-used playground. Our kids take every opportunity to play outside that they can (even if the wind chill limits that time to 10-15 minutes in full winter apparel) and they love every minute of it! Of course, the hot chocolate we enjoy together afterwards is always a plus.

Play ground at Gregory Park.

At Gregory Park, there is a fallen tree. I'm told that cutting the tree away was once discussed, but decided against as it is much loved in our community. I feel it was worth saving, as generations of children have climbed on it's limbs (myself and my own children included). It's a true testament to the beauty of nature and I have many photos of it I've taken over the years.

Fallen tree at Gregory Park.

At Kiwanis Park, you can walk the Buffalo Hills Trail, or can connect to the Mississippi Trail by walking directly under the bridge and over the Mississippi River. Both trails are well-traversed in each season, but the winter has an ethereal appeal all it's own.

Ice breaks on the surface of the Mississippi River near sunset on the Mississippi River Trail.

Looking out at the powerful Mississippi River is an often overlooked blessing of our community. Not only can we view the Mississippi River at Kiwanis Park, but we have a lovely view on Riverside Drive that we can access at anytime. It's honestly mind-blowing and humbling to think about the fact that I drive by this iconic river several times a day, sometimes without even taking notice.

View of ice atop the Mississippi River near Kiwanis Park.

The outer parts of the river, and the surface are icy and appear frozen, but churning underneath, the river continues a steady course south.

The center section of the Mississippi River flows unimpeded by ice.

I could probably add hundreds of nature photos to this story, and would do so happily, but it would be a disservice to my hometown not to share some of our other offerings. We are, historically, a railroad town, and it shows.

Railroad tracks near Downtown Brainerd, Historic Water Tower prevalent in background.

As a child, our family would often visit my grandmother who lived in New Munich, Minnesota. The house she lived in was near an abandoned railroad track. (I must proudly add, that it was generously given to her by my father who wanted to provide his mother with security and comfort in her old age. Despite not having a large amount of money for himself, he made sure his mother had a home for the rest of her life, and it was truly a wonderful gift.) My sisters and I would excitedly rush to the tracks seeking adventures at every opportunity. Our quests often had us carting some form of treasure back to our parents (mostly rusted old railroad spikes that were lovingly received and collected in a 5 gallon pail in our Grandma's garage.) Seeing the tracks of our own historic railways always bring back fond memories of our shared childhood excursions.

NPC Clock Tower Building in late afternoon light.

The antiquated Northern Pacific Center is an inspiring construct. Part of the first northern transcontinental railroad in the United States, the old Northern Pacific Railroad complex has been given a new life. As an updated and chic shopping and event center, it is home to a variety of boutiques, shops, and artisans. It offers a unique venue for weddings and celebrations.

NPC building with original brickwork.

The smokestacks at the NPC can be seen from nearly anywhere in town and are a staple in the Brainerd skyline. With very few things that tower higher than our trees (all of which will be seen in this story) it is easy to see why these landmarks can't be left out of a visual story.

Iconic smoke stacks tower above the tree line at NPC.

Bordering on Downtown Brainerd, our more modest water tower can be seen with "Brainerd" emblazoned in blue lettering on a white background. Though it doesn't seem too special, most Brainerd-grown residents can attest to the importance of this very street where driver's ed. courses test 90 degree corner backing and parallel parking skills.

Brainerd water tower stands near Downtown Brainerd.

Not far from the water tower, we enter the streets of Downtown Brainerd. Coming from this direction, one of the first things we see is a mural on Front Street. On the wall of the Brainerd American Legion Post 255 is the work of local artist Tony Powers. Honoring the veterans of all 5 military branches, the mural depicts a soldier kneeling reverently before the flag. Beside him, the seals of each military branch, over a sea of blue. The inscription "All gave some, Some gave All" in gold lettering is a touching and meaningful sentiment.

Local Artist, Tony Powers painted this touching mural at the American Legion Post 255.

This mural is not, however, the only contribution from Powers in Downtown Brainerd. Tony also designed the mural on the side of The Crossing Arts Alliance for the Community Mural Project. Powers designed and outlined the mural, and community members lent an artistic hand in completing the painting. "You Betcha" we love our local artists here in the BLA!

The Crossing Arts Alliance Community Mural designed by Tony Powers.

Just across the street from this mural are some very interesting vintage buildings. E.L. Menk Jewelers sports a very classy look, and takes one back in time to the early days of Downtown Brainerd.

E.L. Menk Jewelers at the corner of S. 7th and Laurel street.

As pictured above, Downtown Brainerd is home to many small shops, restaurants, and taverns. Bargains on 7th, and the Gallery (also on S. 7th Street) along with Coco Moon, CatTales, and the Northwind Grille (all on Laurel) were frequent favorites of my sisters and I in our teen years (ya know, when we had all that disposable income). All of these places are still mainstays in our Downtown area, and each offer something unique.

CatTales Books & Gifts! owner Theresa often has free books outside her store.

Coco Moon has been a favorite coffee shop since I was a teen as well, when my cousin Tara took me out for my first real coffee at a coffee shop, which made me feel pretty mature. Now, I still enjoy the coffee, but I just feel tired. (Adulthood is so awesome.) Right across the street, on the corner of S. 6th and Laurel is a landmark building. In it's previous life it was the famed Blue Ox Bar (yes, the very one named in Fargo). Now it is The Sage on Laurel, a well-loved eatery.

Sage on Laurel, previous location of the Blue Ox.

In Brainerd, we have many old, historic buildings that are still in use today. We have modern buildings too, of course, but it's the spattering of the antique buildings throughout our town that bring out our character. Our former Court House stands resolute among our modern government buildings. Still in use today, it's this building that so many cast their absentee ballots in during the 2020 election.

Historic Court House located at 326 Laurel Street in evening light.

Located on E. River Road, is the North Star Apartments Building. An iconic building referred to by most locals as "The High Rise" it sits in a picturesque spot near the high school campus and overlooking the Mississippi River. Because of it's height, it is the closest thing we have in Brainerd to a sky scraper and adds depth to the view crossing the Laurel Bridge.

North Star Apartment Building, photographed from adjacent HRA lot.

From most angles, Brainerd (below zero) may appear ordinary. But really, so many small, nuanced details make life here really extraordinary. From the parks with playgrounds and walking trails, to the frozen lakes littered with fish houses there is a sense of belonging in the midst of a cold, quarantined winter. Honestly, I hope you can see the beauty in my home town, but even if you can't, I hope that these simple photos can help you see the beauty in your own.

For more on local artist Tony Powers, visit Tony Powers Designs at https://inkstinct.co/studio/tony-powers-designs-brainerd

If you want more information on the Brainerd Lakes Area, here is a link to the Visit Brainerd Website. https://visitbrainerd.com/

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