These 6 Skincare Ingredients Are Reaching Record Highs in 2024 – Here’s Why

If asked to characterize the beauty industry in one phrase, many would cite its ever-evolving nature. Throughout the years, if not decades, we witnessed numerous trends to come and go. In the age of TikTok and light-speed beauty hacks turnover, it feels like there’s a new miracle product en vogue every other day or the hero ingredient deemed the star of the skincare scene, promising to revolutionize your routine.

According to February Google Trends report, six cosmetic actives came out on top of searches in the US in 2024. BHAs, ceramides, hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, peptides, and retinol are far from newbies in beauty aficionados’ spotlight, but they appear to be reaching an unprecedented rise in popularity this year.

If you're wondering whether it's just momentum or something that is here to stay forever, you're not alone. I spoke with Valerie Aparovich, biochemist and certified cosmetologist-aesthetician at OnSkin, about the whys and wherefores behind the growing favor of these ingredients and the skincare benefits they offer.

Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA)

Beta hydroxy acids are a group of carboxylic acids with exfoliating and antibacterial effects that make them especially helpful for people with oily and acne-prone skin. According to Aparovich, “BHAs’ fat-soluble molecules have good penetrability through the skin’s lipid layer, shedding dead cells, regulating sebum production, promoting deep pore cleansing, and preventing blackhead formation.” She adds that “the beta hydroxy acids’ antibacterial activity helps take acne breakouts in control, while their exfoliating potency can fade post-acne spots and result in a smoother skin texture and more even complexion.”

Salicylic acid is one of the most common BHA types used in skincare cosmetics, such as cleansers, toners, masks, and creams. Leave-on products are recommended to use overnight, and the following daytime routine must include broad-spectrum sunscreen with a minimum SPF of 50, as BHAs can increase the skin’s sensitivity to ultraviolet.

Product picks:

ISNTREE Chestnut BHA Clear Toner

COSRX Refresh AHA BHA Vitamin C Daily Cream

Some By Mi AHA BHA PHA Real Cica Soothing Face Gel

Ceramides

Ceramides are lipid molecules crucial for maintaining hydrolipid balance within the skin and ensuring healthy skin barrier functioning. These qualities make them excellent moisturizing and soothing treatments for dry, dehydrated, irritable, and eczema-prone skin. “Ceramides are emollients; they eliminate water escape from the skin, helping it lock in fluids, and promote lasting hydration, reducing itching, flakiness, and peeling," explains Aparovich. “Topical application of ceramides helps improve compromised skin barrier and strengthen its defenses against germs, bacteria, and other environmental culprits.”

Natural ceramide levels reduce as we age, resulting in the skin losing its firmness and forming fine lines and wrinkles. Ceramide-rich creams help nourish the skin with fatty molecules, increasing its suppleness and thickness.

Product picks:

Catrice Renew Face Serum Squalane, Ceramide & Yuzu

Boscia Plant Stem Cell & Ceramide Moisturizer

Fitglow Sea Ceramide Toning Mist

Hyaluronic Acid

Hyaluronic acid is a non-sulfated substance naturally present in our body’s tissues, including the skin. As we age, the production of hyaluronic acid decreases making the skin lose its volume. Cosmetic products formulated with adequate amounts of this ingredient can help support the skin’s plumpness. “Hyaluronic acid is a humectant that works by binding to water molecules, preventing transepidermal water loss and helping the skin to retain moisture and maintain its healthy hydration levels,” explains Aparovich. Therefore, it’s a great ingredient for dry and oily skin, as every skin type needs proper hydration to stay healthy.

Product picks:

Joyal Beauty Pure Original Hyaluronic Acid Serum

Frankly Cica 80 & Hyaluronic Acid Soothing Toner

Soo’AE Hyaluronic Acid Hydrating Cleanser

Niacinamide (Nicotinamide)

Niacinamide is a form of vitamin B3 required to maintain cell vitality. “It’s an excellent ingredient for oily and acne-prone skin with proven efficiency in treating inflammatory forms of acne due to its ability to relieve inflammation, reduce redness, regulate sebaceous glands’ activity, and restore skin cell health,” says Aparovich. Besides, it possesses antioxidant and brightening properties, decreasing free radical damage and promoting a more evenly toned and glowing complexion.

Product picks:

The Ordinary 100% Niacinamide Powder

Skintific MSH Niacinamide Brightening Moisture Gel

Glossier Super Pure Niacinamide + Zinc Serum

Peptides

Cosmetic peptides are amino acids produced synthetically to mimic the function of natural peptides serving as protein building blocks within our skin. “Collagen fibers are made of three polypeptide chains, so peptides directly impact collagen synthesis, increasing skin firmness and elasticity. That makes them potent anti-aging agents,” explains Aparovich. “Peptides are also very beneficial for dry and dehydrated skin as they are excellent humectants," she adds. “They provide ample hydration, strengthen the skin’s moisture barrier, and stimulate restorative processes within damaged cells.”

Peptide serums can be used in both morning and evening skincare routines. They are usually very lightweight and thin, so they should be applied between the toning and moisturizing steps to ensure their small molecules are adequately absorbed by the skin.

Product picks:

GlowOasis Probiotics + Triple Peptide Refreshing Eye Cream

Olay Regenerist Vitamin C + Peptide 24 Max Hydrating Moisturizer

Jorgobe Multi Peptide Lifting Filler

Retinol

Retinol and other types of retinoids are vitamin A derivatives with powerful anti-aging properties. “Retinoids boost cell turnover and promote collagen and elastin synthesis, firming and smoothing skin texture and making the signs of aging, like fine lines and wrinkles, more surface,” says Aparovich.

Retinol is a go-to ingredient for acne treatment and, overall, for oily and combination skin prone to blackheads and blemishes. “It promotes skin renewal and regulates sebum secretion, preventing pore blockage and decreasing the risk of breakouts. It can also reduce inflammation and swelling that comes with acne and alleviate the intensity of outbreaks,” Aparovich explains.

Retinoids can provoke the skin’s photosensitivity, so they should be a part of the nighttime routine, preferably during the autumn-winter season. It’s recommended to introduce retinol products gradually, beginning with one to two applications a week to ensure the skin doesn’t experience any side effects associated with this ingredient, such as dryness, irritation, peeling, or redness. Doctors warn against using retinoids during pregnancy and breastfeeding due to the excess vitamin A hazardous impact on the baby’s health.

Product picks:

Frank Body Rewind Retinol Serum

Skin Republic Retinol Infusion Face Sheet Mask

Danielle Creations Retinol & Caffeine Eye Serum

Product picks for the article were made based on the overall ingredient formulation safety, and are rated 94 of 100 and higher by OnSkin – a science-backed cosmetic scanner that enables safety evaluation of cosmetics, decodes ingredient labels, and analyzes if the products align with users' skin needs and concerns.