Theories of skin aging. Hormonal influences

Anti-aging cosmetics sought to counteract chronological aging, based on anti-aging, anti-wrinkle, restructuring treatments. This concept evolved into the pro-aging or age-friendly concept, which sought to show beauty in the real age of each person. It proposes a maturity that does not hide your age.

In 2007, Aubrey de Grey, English biomedical gerontologist and author of The Mitochondrial Free Radical Theory of Aging or Ending Aging, coined the pro-aging trance. His approach aims to slow down premature aging by promoting healthy chronological aging and extending cellular longevity.

To achieve this, it is necessary to act on the exposome, reducing external aggressions and adopting healthier lifestyle habits.

In this approach, nutricosmetics and micronutrition take on great importance, opening up the exciting field of Smart Aging.

At the cosmetic level, we must adapt our routine to the hormonal stage, lifestyle and time of year to repair sun and free radical damage to DNA and activate regenerative processes to block the harmful effect of environmental factors and delay the appearance of the signs of chronological and hormonal aging.

Theories of aging

Aging is a physiological and inevitable phenomenon that occurs in the whole organism and manifests itself in the skin, from the age of 25-30 years. It involves a slowing down of cell renewal, degeneration of skin structures and a progressive decrease in the production of substances that support the tissues.

Among its most striking signs are wrinkles, loss of tone and density, pigmentation variations and hardening of dermal proteins, such as collagen. The skin ages for different reasons according to different theories of aging:

Chronological Aging.

It is independent of sex and is genetically programmed. It is accelerated by sun damage, atmospheric pollution or exposure to environmental factors such as cold, wind, toxins, insomnia, bad eating habits, etc.

Its most obvious signs are wrinkles and sagging skin. Cell division slows down, and therefore skin renewal slows down over the years. So dead cells accumulate in the most superficial layer, forming a dense and compact layer.

Dehydration is also a clear sign of aging skin, which is why it looks dry and wrinkled. And in the innermost layers the cells synthesize less elastin and collagen so the skin appears lax, lacking strength, firmness and less density. The areas of the body where it is most noticeable are the inner arms and thighs and the neck.

At the metabolic and vascular level, the skin accumulates more toxins, thins and decreases the synthesis of support proteins and vitamin D, making it more vulnerable to temperature regulation.

Photoaging

This is caused by solar radiation, especially UVA radiation, which is why sunscreen SPF 50+ should be used all year round.

Photoinduced aging causes degeneration of the skin's elastic fibers, the skin becomes rough, yellowish, irregularly pigmented, dry and devitalized, with very deep wrinkles and visible capillaries. It is most clearly seen in areas exposed to the sun, such as the face, hands, décolleté, neck, etc.

In this case the metabolism is hyperactive, synthesizes more fibers than normal and the skin becomes thicker, which can lead to cancerous lesions (actinic keractosis).

Dyschromia and hyperpigmented areas (senile spots) alternate with hypopigmented areas and uneven skin tone.

Hormonal Aging

This is associated with premenopausal and menopausal changes. As progesterone and estrogen levels decrease, the signs of aging are accentuated:

- Loss of collagen in the dermis (by 2.1% per year).

- Loss of firmness and elasticity.

- Decrease in cell renewal.

- Less hydration.

- Hypopigmented (white) spots.

- The union between the layers of the skin becomes thinner.

If you want to know the difference between your chronological age, the one written on your ID card, and your biological age, that is, the one that reflects the real state of your cells and tissues, find out with the Potential Life test.

Skin aging and hormone levels

Estrogens are the only substances capable of ensuring proper skin maintenance. If you want to slow down the impact of estrogen loss at the dermatological level, follow these tips.

Some plants contain substances with a chemical structure similar to natural estrogenic hormones (phytoestrogens), and therefore, their action on the skin is similar to that of estrogens. With their use, skin dryness decreases and skin density recovers.

These are the isoflavones and lignans that you can obtain from:

• Soy and its derivatives, such as tofu and tempeh. In the case of the drink, it is important to drink it 100% vegetable.
• Sprouts or alfalfa sprouts: they can be included in salads, sandwiches or topping soups and creams.
• Spinach.
• Flax seeds left to soak, so that you can also benefit from their effect on intestinal.
• Legumes: lentils, beans, chickpeas and peas.
• Aromatic herbs such as thyme and licorice.

• Nuts: walnuts, pistachios and almonds.

Cosmetics with specific activity in Menopause

Antioxidants block free radicals caused by solar radiation or pollution. They are responsible for oxidative stress, inflammation and collagen degradation.

Vitamin C inhibits the effect of free radicals, intervenes in the synthesis of collagen and melanin. It therefore prevents inflammation, improves firmness and prevents blemishes.

Ferulic acid is a powerful antioxidant that also stimulates collagen and elastin synthesis. It also prevents the appearance of blemishes.

Stem cells stimulate our own stem cells, activate cell renewal, collagen and elastin, reducing wrinkles and expression lines.

Bioactive peptides stimulate collagen and elastin synthesis and deep cell regeneration and an immediate firming effect.

Retinol is one of the most powerful transformers together with alpha hydroxy acids such as glycolic acid. Their effectiveness depends on the concentration and pH at which they are formulated. They are exfoliating and moisturizing, even the tone and stimulate the production of collagen and elastin.