The Mountain That Eats Men

After arriving in Potosi, I was immediately captivated by its colonial charm. The ancient streets and colonial architecture whispered tales of an almost forgotten era. I came here to visit the famous “The Mountain That Eats Men” Cerra Rico.

As I gazed up at mountain from this distance looking like a small hill in the distance , its imposing reputation sent shivers down my spine, fueling my curiosity to visit this into its mysteries.

On my first day in Potosi to really understand Cerro Rico, I delved into its tragic history. A thriving silver mine, it was once a place of immense wealth and unimaginable suffering. The indigenous workers, known as "mitayos," endured backbreaking labor and harsh conditions during the Spanish colonial era. The mountain's dark reputation as "The Mountain That Eats Men" was earned through the countless lives it claimed as still does claim

8.30am day two ,we met our guide He takes us to the miners market where we are fully fitted with mining clothes to help protect our own clothing. We are offered a shot of “miners whisky” 96% alcohol and are told the miners drink this like water , sharing the superstitious belief that it will protect them from the evil spirit in the mine called “Tio”.

I hesitantly take a shot just a spoonful burns my throat, hopefully the Tio won’t notice me today. Equipped with a helmet and a sense of adventure, I follow my guide tour who will take me deep into the heart of Cerro Rico. As we descended into the labyrinthine tunnels I was shocked at how low the ceilings are and how unstable the walls seems, this doesn’t feel like a taourist or any human for that matter belongs. The air grew heavy with dust, and the echoes of distant footsteps and carts being rolled along the rickety tracks filled the silence. It was as if the mountain itself whispered its secrets to those who dared to venture within.

In the depths of Cerro Rico, We have to stand aside for modern-day miners who continue to work tirelessly within its treacherous confines. Their weathered faces and calloused hands spoke volumes of their sacrifice and resilience. They shared stories of their daily struggles, their hopes, and the unbreakable bond they felt with the mountain that both sustained and threatened their lives.

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Among the miners, there was a deep-rooted belief in the spirit of Cerro Rico. They spoke of its presence, a force that guided and protected them. Rituals and offerings were made to honor the mountain's power, a testament to the spiritual connection forged through generations of toil and hardship.

At the centre of our journey we have to crawl on our hands and knees through a small tunnel ending in a small bell shaped area only 6 people can fit here and it is impossible to stand up, The guide rubs the walls with his bear hands and then searches in the dust that falls. He shows us the silver that has fallen from the falls, I understand why the Spanish called this a mountain of silver.

Our journey into the mountain lasted 2 hours truthfully 10 minutes would be enough in this entrance to the underworld. Emerging from the depths of Cerro Rico, I carried with me a profound sense of reflection and reverence. The mountain had revealed the fragility of life and the strength of the human spirit. The sacrifices made by those who came before and those who continue to work within its depths were etched into my soul, forever reminding me of the resilience and determination that can be found in humankind.

Conclusion:

My journey into the depths of Cerro Rico had been a transformative experience. It had allowed me to witness the echoes of history and the enduring spirit of those who have braved its darkness. Cerro Rico, a mountain steeped in tragedy and resilience, had left an indelible mark on my heart. As I left Potosi behind, I carried with me the stories of the past, forever grateful for the opportunity to uncover the secrets of this ancient mineshaft.



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Some Stats:


It is said 8 million souls have lost their lives at Cerro Rico in the past 500 years.


38 men have died in the mine in 2023.


The miners salary is $300 a month, which is the average 12 month salary in Bolivia