The Shack

Nestled in an urban maze, lies a spoon out of time, hidden slightly from the outside world by a rapidly growing modern metropolis. A sight that would initially give one pause as to how such a place could fit in or even survive in such a hot bed of commercial competition.

I am speaking of course of the matter-of-factly named The Burger Shack. A fast-food joint, greasy spoon, old-time diner, or family restaurant. Depends on your relationship with the old gal.

I welcome you to the city of Toronto. Canada’s largest city. Known for its many attractions, social events and world class dining. Like most North American cities, it has a large downtown area. But unlike most cities, Toronto has a rather large midtown area that in many ways feels like a second downtown.

In this midtown you’ll find an explosion of culture that makes for a hodgepodge of all kinds. A perfect marriage of single youths, families and seniors. As well, a multicultural hotbed for cuisines of all kinds.

I grew up in this literal middle part of the city and haven’t really left since. However, many restaurants have come and gone, some that only a few can recall. In fact, it’s amazing to think of how few have stood the test of time.

One such survivor is my favorite burger joint just down the street from the house I was raised in.

It has one of those old signs that you would swear hasn’t been changed since the 60s, and a logo of a burger morphed into a shack which quite honestly looks unappetizing. A sullen amber hue of low lighting invites you from the outside in. And once you’re inside you immediately notice the old sticky plastic fold-up benches and copper tables.

When you turn to your left you see the assembly line that is the cash followed by the bowls of ingredients and the grill. Look up and you’ll see a menu with slides and pictures that look like they’ve never been changed. Perhaps the only thing that has evolved are the prices.

Once you’ve decided what you’ll have, place your order at the cash that still has the old green numbers and makes the classic chugging noise of a receipt being printed. As you wait, sit down at your booth of choice with a table set with the spire-capped condiment bottles of yellow mustard and red ketchup.

As you tap your fingers on the table with anticipation, rich aromas fill the air. Then you notice the ceiling is filled with those old style red and orange-stained glass lamps. The kind you’d see on the hit 80s sitcom Cheers. I don’t know what it is about those lamps, but I’ve always found them so charming. They take you back to that feel of a community pub or family restaurant. Not to mention, my parents always had one hanging in their dinning room. A souvenir they obtained from a short-lived gourmet shop they ran in the early 80s. I guess it was the look of the times. Because despite always assuming The Burger Shack had been around for half a century, I finally found out that it too made its humble beginnings in the 80s.

Next, you’ll notice you actually had to wait a bit for your order to be called. This is not only because the place seems to be forever busy but that they truly take their time making fresh food. Now it’s time. You’ll been called up to the plate, or the counter. You can choose from a whole range of toppings that you don’t see offered at most burger joints.

Time to talk about the food. I’m a person who loves all kinds of food and have tried hundreds of restaurants all over the city. And I can tell you that almost everything on the menu is excellent. It’s got that authentic smoky grilled flavor. You get what you came for, some delicious mouth-watering guilty pleasure. From the breakfast sandwiches to the salads to the dinner plates to the milkshakes, everything fills your soul and your appetite.

Perhaps one of its most unique characteristics is its blending of Greek classics alongside burgers and such. Owned and operated by the Bashton family since day 1, The Burger Shack offers excellent souvlakis, Greek salads and Baklavas to boot. In fact, it’s ironic that most of my life I’ve ordered a souvlaki and Greek salad instead of the burgers that they are most famous for.

When the time comes that you do crave a burger, you have two types of patties. You have the regular premade patties and the freshly handmade homeburger patties. The latter being much bigger and more authentic. Ahh, I can remember the number of times I’d walk in and say, “One home cheese on a Kaiser bun with fries.” Classic.

Lastly let’s address those fries. There’s a je ne sais quoi quality about them. A picture wouldn’t do them justice. They’re soft yet crunchy and slightly curled. Be warned as they are highly addictive. Damn I’m getting seriously hungry now. Oh, and one thing that is truly visually pleasing are the massive thick golden onion rings they serve. Those will leave an impression.

The memories of this place are numerous to be sure. My parents always frowned at the marketing of fast-food giants like McDonald’s to little kids to get them hooked for life, so they always told me and my sister that we should go to a place like The Burger Shack instead because there they have real fresh ingredients. While other kids were excited about a trip to the golden arches, I was anticipating my next visit to the burger shaped like a house. When I became a teenager, my visits became more frequent, often coming at 2am on weekend nights. I quickly got all my friends on board and they agreed that these were hands down the best burgers in the great wide city of the six.

I’ve only somewhat touched on the atmosphere but it’s one of the best items. There is a local neighborhood feel to the whole place. That feeling that everyone may not know each other but they all know the owners. A feeling that everyone who enters through that front door has been there before. Somehow, in some existential logic, no one is ever going in for the first time.

The staff are warm and energetic and are always willing to chat even though they are doing 4 things at once. All the while there is a feeling of comfort. It’s a place where all feel welcome and comfortable as they consume what may be the definition of comfort food. Just the smell of the food as I walk by on the street gives me a sense of nostalgia and warmth.

I revisited this shack recently as I was concerned for its well being. This past year we have all seen dozens of restaurants fold as they’ve struggled to survive during this COVID-19 pandemic. With genuine worry, I checked in on my childhood favorite as I figured they must be really hard hit as they function for the most part as a social place. To my amazement, it’s been quite the opposite. The community has continued to support it just as they always have.

Perhaps the most apt word is consistency. The Burger Shack has always been there. The taste and the quality of the food has never changed. It remains open till 3am for those in need. Most importantly, the people are always there. It appears as though this spoon out of time will remain untouched by its effects.