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Food scenery/To Guangdong, enjoy the delicious and happy Cantonese cuisine

Guangdong food

By Lanie PattonPublished 2 years ago 9 min read

Song dynasty there was a man called weeks without, his native place is always fine in zhejiang province (now the city of wenzhou), exceeded otherregions jinshi, done to the area in west of the rulers of the city, he wrote a book in lingnan's experiences, called the ridge outside generation ", can be seen in the book, at that time, guangdong people eat, in river hill sea, air, walking on the ground, the water, cave, There's nothing cantonese don't eat.

Qu Dajun, a Cantonese scholar in the early Qing Dynasty, wrote "Food Language" in volume 14 of New Cantonese Language, which specifically described the content related to "eating" in Guangdong.

In the Qing Dynasty, zhang Qu, a wuqiang man from Hebei province, once went to Guangdong as an official on an inspection mission. He recorded the food situation of guangdong villages in his Book Records of Hearing and Seeing in Eastern Guangdong. He said that Cantonese people ate snakes and rats, which were considered disgusting by outsiders, and covered them up with such good names as "eel" and "domestic deer".

During the period of the late Qing Dynasty and the Republic of China, xu Ke, a man from Hangzhou, wrote a book called "Qingbarngrass Type Chao", in which the article "Diet: Eating Birds, Animals and Insects of The Cantonese people" describes as follows: "The food of eastern Guangdong is quite different from that of other provinces, such as dogs, voles, snakes, centipedes, clams, bugs, cicadas, locusts, longlice and grass insects.

With the influence of Guangzhou on foreign trade, Cantonese cuisine became the first Chinese cuisine that westerners came into contact with when they entered China. Since the 17th century, there have been some contents related to Cantonese cuisine in books about China written by Europeans and Americans.

There is a "lost in western China" refers to the record of China's modern social life of the westerners, including a text written after the opium war, the qing imperial envoys of various banquets Britain sent to the governor of Hong Kong, on the dining table as well as various types of pickled sour pickled cabbage, radish dry pre-dinner cold dishes, main course, there is a bird's nest soup, Main courses are venison, duck meat, shark's fin, chestnut soup, spare ribs, vegetable meat pie, bull's loin, shark, ox horn pith, stewed ham, fish maw, pheasant, peacock, ham and other dozens of courses.

A Frenchman named Ivan, who visited Guangzhou, wrote of the chefs in Guangzhou in his book Inside Guangzhou: "Our chefs are famous throughout the empire. Where else could you create something as delicate as a mindless duck or a hollow spiced meatball?"

Modern cultural celebrities, such as Lu Xun, Guo Moruo, Yu Dafu, Ba Jin, Zheng Zhentuo, Hu Shi, Xu Guangping, Wu Mi, Jiang Menglin, Xu Zhimo, Ji Xianlin, Shu Huizui, Tang Lusun, etc., have all had their experiences or written records about eating Cantonese cuisine. Most of them have been to Guangzhou, and Xu Zhimo wrote about eating Cantonese cuisine overseas.

Inherit and innovate the three major cantonese cuisines

Cantonese people have a saying: "Back to the sky, everyone can eat." What creature in the world, except man, walks standing up, but with his back turned upside down? That is to say, anything that crawls on the ground, flies in the sky or burrows in the mud is edible.

Qu Dajun said in Guangdong New Language: "East Guangdong has almost all the food and goods in the world, but the world may not have all the food and goods in east Guangdong."

This refers to the abundance of ingredients in Guangdong. Including pigs, cattle, sheep, fish, chickens, ducks, geese, and snakes, foxes, dogs, cats, monkeys, rats, snails, insects, worms, osmanthus cicadas, longlice, centipedes, voles, including almost all Marine life, there is nothing that cantonese people cannot eat.

Cantonese cuisine pays particular attention to the production of condiments. Commonly used food ingredients include ginger, garlic, scallion, sugar, salt, soy sauce, rice wine, starch, oil, etc. Occasionally five-spice powder and white pepper powder are used, but spicy condiments are rarely used. This will keep the flavor and flavor of the food.

People say: "Autumn wind, the three snakes fat, nourishing just in time." Cantonese people are famous for eating snakes at home and abroad. They have been making dishes with snakes for more than 2,000 years. Among them, "Dragon and Tiger Fight", also known as "Leopard cat braised with Three snakes", "Dragon and Tiger Braised with Wind" and "Chrysanthemum dragon, tiger and Phoenix", are famous traditional Cantonese dishes at home and abroad.

Dim sum is one of the most beautiful delicacies in Cantonese cuisine. In three meals a day, Cantonese people put dim sum in a very important position, the banquet is arranged at the end of salty and sweet; In the festival diet, not only sometimes make fresh fruit, but also have exquisite seasonal snacks.

Cantonese cuisine is exquisite in dosage, rich in ingredients, beautiful and colorful in decoration, and good at innovation in imitation. There are 5457 kinds of cantonese cuisine introduced in 1965 "Guangzhou Famous Cuisine Exhibition".Cantonese morning tea

Since modern times, many famous representative Cantonese dishes have appeared in guangzhou as the center of modern Guangdong cities. Your league litres of man-han banquet, sweet bad bass, poly FengYuan drunk drunk shrimp, crab, nanyang hall of assorted cold cuts, chafing dish, let up sesame balls, tamanami floor of half lent fryer, blessing to the crisp carp, wan stack of duck hanging furnace, the garden of jiangnan flowers chicken, braised abalone slices of south, west park of dinghu, triple double braised big skirt wings, full of longhu stewed snake king, You can find taiye chicken in Liuyu Hotel, glass shrimp in Yu Yuan, Osmanthus wings in Hua Yuan, Yushu Chicken in Beiyuan, Roast Suckling pig in Wangji, Fish Cloud soup in Xinyuan, sliced duck in Jinling, fish maw in clear soup in Guanzhen, fried crab in Tao Tao Ju, vegetarian dish with root vegetable flavor, Skin Suckling pig in Lu Yu Ju, Baiyun Pork hand in Baiyun, squab in Western juice in Taiping Hall, etc.

The three major cuisines of Guangdong cuisine are related to their respective origin of population migration, traditional living habits and regional distribution, and each has its own characteristics.

The range of Guangfu cuisine corresponds to the area where cantonese dialect is popular, with Guangzhou and Foshan as the center, the Pearl River Delta as the main area, and zhaoqing and Zhanjiang in the west of Guangdong as the main area. The cuisine is rich in ingredients with fine selection and excellent techniques. It is clear but not light, fresh but not good, tender but not raw, and oily but not greasy. Good at small fry, master the heat and oil temperature is just right. Also compatible with many western cuisine practices, pay attention to the momentum of food, grade.

Chaozhou cuisine is formed in chaoshan dialect area, originated in Chaoshan area, integrating the long food customs of Fujian and Guangdong, forming its own school. Have to the sea and born of the innate diet gene, to cook seafood is good, soup, vegetable, beet most characteristic. Fine knife work, pure taste.

Hakka cuisine, also known as Dongjiang cuisine, is distributed in Hakka dialect area and originated from hakka people living in Dongjiang area of Guangdong Province. The dishes are mostly meat, mountain delicacies are common, and aquatic products are rare in the early stage. Most of the dishes are river delicacies, with prominent main ingredients, exquisite fragrance, heavy oil, salty taste, and casserole dishes with unique local flavor.

Various cuisines in the process of development, with The Times, development innovation, both retain their traditional, and learn from each other, complement each other, therefore, people are now in chaozhou cuisine with seafood can eat to make beautiful mountain delicacies, in forest products for specialty of hakka dishes, also can taste the delicious seafood.

Visit the long guangfu dishes

The word "Guangfu" has rich historical connotation. In the Sui and Tang dynasties, the Imperial court set up guangzhou Governor's Office in Guangzhou to manage lingnan region. In the early Song Dynasty, Guangzhou Government was established as a first-level local political system. But as far as the cantonese dialect area is concerned, the formation of "Guangfu culture" obviously experienced a much longer historical accumulation.

Guangfu Cultural Zone is located in the Pearl River Delta, with hot climate, beautiful soil, fat and water, and rich products. Since ancient times, diversified economy has developed, which not only retains the mainstream of the Central Plains "agriculture-oriented" social development concept, but also continues the "mercantile" economy associated with overseas trade. Thus, Guangfu culture is relatively located in an open and inclusive form, and correspondingly, Guangfu cuisine also has the characteristics of learning from others.

Guang fu cuisine in the tang dynasty has more attention to improve cooking, know the use of ingredients and timing, start more widely affected by the north brought to diet, coupled with the guangzhou foreign trade development of tang and song dynasties, including foreign arabs settled in guangzhou, since the Ming and qing dynasty, guang fu food continue to absorb the essence of the Chinese and foreign cooking culture, make the lingnan diet culture into the first golden era.

In the Qing Dynasty, there was a zhuzhi poem dedicated to singing Guangfu cuisine:

Ring snails crisp as oysters fresh, the best fish in February.

Winter solstice fish born summer solstice dog, a year delicious several den feast.

Since modern times, Cantonese cuisine has been influenced by western cuisine and borrowed many cooking techniques of western cuisine. "Chinese cuisine made in the west", or "Western cuisine made in the West", or "combination of Chinese and Western cuisine", which reflects the value orientation of Cantonese cuisine culture being the first to get the spirit and blend Chinese and Western cuisine, while maintaining its own characteristics in the inheritance and development.Boiled Chicken Slices

There is a saying: "no chicken is not clear, no meat is not fresh, no duck is not fragrant, no elbow is not thick. Hakka cuisine is the pursuit of these dishes clear, fresh, fragrant, thick characteristics.

The biggest characteristic of Hakka cuisine is heavy oil, compared with Guangfu cuisine and Chaozhou cuisine, more salty, side dishes and accessories are not much, but there are main side dishes and accessories, highlighting a certain flavor.

Because the Hakka people live in the mountainous area, the labor intensity is high, and the travel also costs physical energy, so the hakka food is relatively heavy in salt and fat, so it has the characteristics of "salty and fat".

Of course, Hakka cuisine has also absorbed the elements of medicinal diet since the Wei and Jin Dynasties, and there are some health dishes related to regulating Yin and Yang, nourishing and reducing health and seasonal.

Traditional hakka specialty is salt baked chicken, hakka stuffed tofu, hakka poon choi, pork belly chicken, bitter melon, plum food braised pork, three cups of brewed duck, black soya, spring rolls, three and soup, pickled, ai 粄, turnip 粄, soup bowl 粄, white cut HeTianJi, pocket, dingkuang bubble, fairy frozen pork loin, kirin scholarship, four full moon, taro package, taro dumplings, etc.

There are still many wonderful handmade methods in the hakka cooking skills retained in farmhouses or restaurants. Rose wine, for example, double dove: double dove kill net, wiped dry, lay in the earthen bowl, dove under laid-down chopstick two root, make the pigeon, the body and the bottom of the bowl with a little distance to chang the heat, take a cup of rose wine between two pigeons, then the whole bowl into the wok, add cover made of baked clay, take the fire pot, dove when the cup still wine and half a cup, but the wine has gone, just pigeon meat smell fragrant.

This method is only seen in hakka recipes, the present farmers to save time and simple, on this basis to create "three yellow chicken" practice, is simple and wonderful. Take a cup of wine, a cup of soy sauce, a cup of water, mixed in the pot, pot with a few bamboo chopsticks to hold the slaughter of the whole chicken, covered with high heat for half an hour, you can eat the sweet, smooth and soft delicious chicken.

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    LPWritten by Lanie Patton

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