“Continua a continuare”

To open a restaurant in this current climate is brave: some might even say mad. With metropolitan Melbourne shut down amidst climbing COVID cases, regional Victoria has new mounting pressure to ‘step up’ with its cultural experiences. Newly opened Ballarat restaurant “Ragazzone,” does just that.

On a dark Ballarat winters night the Uber dropped me off right on top of a deep, questionable puddle outside the freshly painted exterior of this new culinary kid on the block. Walk through the millennial pink framed door with wet socks I’m met with the millennial pink shirt and charisma of restauranteur Drew Harry.

Harry welcomes us with warm familiarity and leads us up a short polished concrete ramp towards the glittering bar. Our water glasses sit on “Ragazzone” branded coasters and our charcoal linen napkins are folded neatly to welcome us; facing a well appointed bar with a well appointed bar tender: Louis Powlett.

Brother of co-owner Teddy, Louis nails the brief in creating sophisticated Italian classics with subtle yet noteworthy modern twists to make them memorable and exciting. Wearing his hair tied back and a smirk of knowing confidence he stirs down a perfectly balanced Negroni to start the evening - chilled in a glass with a perfectly circular button of orange skin - using house made vermouth and sherry to respectfully create new depths to the popular classic.

Sommelier Anthony Shuurs comes to take our oder and recommends the chefs menu. He gracefully accepts my challenge of a ‘wine flight’ alongside the menu offering. Showing skill in a curated wine list and an ability to not only work with a diverse menu, but also in aesthetic: with bottles lining the walls each label has a retro design enhancing the venues overall vibe.

Exec Chef Liam Downs uses the ‘chefs menu’ of this venue advertised as wholesome Italian as a platform to present skill and ambition. It’s clear the menu has something to prove: each dish punching your tastebuds with an overload of flavour. From salty cured locally sourced meats on the antipasto, to the crisp fried tapioca base of the amuse bouche of grilled octopus, nduja & acidic pickled shallot, to rich pan fried gnocchi and lamb tortellini swimming in a thick lamb brodo: the menu is unapologetically ambitious and technique driven, marrying Downs’ experience in the award-winning pan-Asian cuisine from his previous haunt under the same Powlett ownership - local Thai restaurant Moon & Mountain - with an obvious understanding of traditional Italian flavours. While one does cry for some fresh flavour combinations somewhere in the degustation to provide a culinary break, its easy to see why the local punters are already in love with this osteria.

With a staff base carrying experience from gastro pubs, award-winning kitchens and top-rated wine bars, the professionalism doesn’t get in the way of the casual dining experience ‘Ragz’ is clearly aiming for; donning these hospitality veterans in slick black t-shirts branded with the venue’s pale pink logo. The quintessentially Melbourne style of over-familiar and relaxed service suits this venue so perfectly that anything else would feel out of place.

Sipping on a natural Pinot Noir in this pale pink oasis and I feel that I could be anywhere: in a Melbourne haute last summer, in my favourite cocktail bar in London, or some trendy minimal Italiano Ristorante in New York.

To open a restaurant in this current climate is brave: some might even say mad, but sitting in Ragazzone - wet socks and all - and I’m no longer in regional Victoria during the COVID epidemic. I’m somewhere else, a memory ignited by flavour and contentment: and something about that is pure magic.