2009 Chateau Larrivet Haut-Brion

If my nose was Lionel Ritchie, it would love this wine. I could smell it all night long -- but it took two hours in a decanter to get that way.

As soon as the cork was popped, I poured a small amount into a glass. Initially, I did not like the aroma. It was ripe -- not quite raisins -- it seemed like the grapes had been allowed to hang on the vine for a long time – maybe too long.

The first sip followed this impression, with sweetness on the front of the pallet. The mild acidity tickled the roof of the mouth. Though I was pleasantly surprised by a spicy note in the finish, there was a slightly bitter after-taste of tannins that was not smooth. I poured the bottle into the decanter and decided to let it sit for a couple of hours.

About the Chateau

I used this time to research the chateau. If you do not already own The Complete Bordeaux by Mitchell Beazle, you should pick up a copy as soon as you can. What an attractive label and a gorgeous chateau. Larrivet Haut-Brion is not related to the famous First Growth Bordeaux. The name was originally Haut-Brion-Larrivet - and it remained that way for over 70 years, until a lawsuit brought by the owners of Chateau Haut-Brion forced the estate to change the name.

Chateau Larrivet Haut-Brion is neighbors with Chateau Haut-Bailly, one of my personal favorites in Pessac-Leognan. They grow grapes for both white and red wines. The red vines are about 25 years old, and are planted in terroir that is both gravely and sandy. I'm looking forward to trying a blanc, as I have read very good things about the quality.

About the Vintage

The 2009 vintage in Bordeaux produced some of the best and most expensive wines of the last 20 years. That said, it was not always considered to be a great year. Some estates in Pessac-Leognan, where this bottle is from, suffered major damage from hail storms in the spring. But, the summer was very warm and dry, and this allowed the grapes to stay on the vine longer than normal – perhaps this is why I think this particular wine tastes a bit ripe. It also resulted in wine that is higher in alcohol than normal. This bottle is 14%, and it can pack a punch. I prefer my red wine to be more in the 12% to 13% range. Not only does the higher alcohol content make one drunk too quickly, it can also make red wine become unbalanced over time.

Back to the Wine

After I waited patiently for two hours, I came back to the wine and poured another glass. This is where my love affair with the nose began. I was struck by how much it had changed. It was deep black currants, crushed rocks, graphite, and pencil shavings.

The taste had improved dramatically, as well, though it never quite matched the nose. The fruit was still very ripe, however the tannins and acidity had become more balanced, and the finish lingered nicely. The spice I had initially experienced was still present, along with notes of cedar and minerals.

After another hour, the taste changed again and not for the better. It became thin and not very exciting. Some wines, rich with velvety tannins, grip the entire palate. At this point, to fully experience what this wine had to offer, it was necessary to move the juice around in the mouth. Perhaps I simply decanted it for too long. If I try this one again, I will only decant for an hour before enjoying.

Cheers!