Slim: Terno for the Modern Eyes

The Baro’t Saya, Traje de Mestiza and Terno. These names are what we call the traditional dress of the Philippines. The dress reflects the history of the country, noticeable in its fabric and designs the influences brought by colonial powers and how it strives throughout the country’s independence. It has become a symbol of how one defines the Filipino woman, regardless of day and age.

From the voluminous Victorian silhouettes of the Traje de Mestiza, to the streamlined and renowned butterfly sleeves of the Terno, with such little coverage of the Philippine fashion industry, to where future tailors and couturists could find such inspiration in redefining the dress and the character of people in an ever-changing world? Perhaps, one of the best-known examples to find one’s inspiration is from a woman who goes by the name of Salvacion Lim-Higgins, a person not known by many today, Slim was her nickname. Slim was known for her revolutionary designs in her brand of haute couture that continues to inspire generations of Filipino designers.

Born in Legazpi, even during the phase of her childhood she was already taught with the principles of discipline and self- reliance along with the ethics that make up her family clan. She studied Fine arts within the University of Santo Tomas as she wanted to become a painter. In the Post-War period, an era where gender roles still play a major influence in the workforce, the field of creative activity was the obvious choice for a woman. She, along with her sister Purificacion, opened ‘Slim’s shop’ in 1948 in Manila.

One manages to get a glimpse of her exquisite works through the exhibition handled by the Manila Metropolitan Theater titled, “Imagining/Imaging: Salvacion Lim Higgins and the Filipino Identity”, displaying the now-proclaimed National Artist’s collections throughout the decades from the 40s until the 80s. Of course, of all the clothes she had done, it is her various renditions of ‘Ternos’ that remain of the highest regard.

Influenced by Western trends, so it shows in her collections of clothing that she created. It reflected the character of experimentation that was present from the likes of renowned designers at the time. Of course, it would have a lasting effect on the Terno, with its gravity-defying and geometric shapes and elaborate designs consisting of embroideries, hand-sewn accessories, combining new and historical trends and vibrant colors, giving a new breath of life on the appearances of the components that make the traditional dress altogether as it is.

In the 1950s to 60s, Manila saw itself under the influence of the glamorous Hollywood trends of America. The fashion scene at the time, places itself upon the desires of notable European couturiers. Seen through the various renditions of the ‘Terno’ at the exhibit, it is evident of 'Slim's' unorthodox desires in her creations. But not without taking inspirations from renowned designers at the time such as that of Christian Dior’s renowned “New Look”, and the sculptural silhouettes brought by Cristobal Balenciaga. She had a keen observation on the clothes’ designs and construction. Along with the obligations of a fashion designer in choosing the right fabric and the correct quantities of it, this would influence her to create her version of the Filipino silhouette.

She would remain influential for those who are within the fashion industry. With schools under her influence such as Slim’s Fashion and Arts School, her designs would remain as one of the staples for reshaping the way Filipino eyes see the traditional dress and herself as a renowned inspiration for future aspiring designers around the country.