Welcome to Cartagena

First Encounter

It was on February 12, 1990, that we arrived off the coast of Cartagena. President George H.W. Bush was scheduled to be there for a much-lauded "anti-drug cartel summit". At that time, Colombia was considered among the most dangerous countries in the world and the center of the cocaine production industry. The United States was, of course, the center of the cocaine consumption industry. Thus, 4 heads of state convened for a meeting about their shared concerns.

SECURITY HIGH FOR BUSH VISIT TO COLOMBIA and other headlines before, during, and after the summit, talked up the importance of the event. In retrospect, it was more hype than substance, but none of that was my direct concern.

I was merely a cog in the larger machine, doing my job onboard an American warship. We carried the White House Communication Staff, a Secret Service detachment, CIA and Special Forces elements, and enough Marines to provide muscle, in case things went south.

This was my first brush with South America. I had "been" to Colombia without ever setting foot on Colombian soil. Cartagena was visible in the distance, but my experience was much the same as any other military operation.

Another Page

By the end of 1990, I was on the other side of the globe, squaring off against Saddam Hussein. The so-called Drug War and Cartagena seemed far in the rearview mirror by then. It was a couple of years before I gave much thought again to South America.

The year before my first Cartagena "visit", James Michener published his book, Caribbean. I enjoyed Michener's work as a teenager but did not get this particular book until sometime in the early to mid-90's.

In Michener's trademark style, Caribbean is an expansive work, covering large swaths of time and geography. Growing up in Jamaica, I studied general Caribbean and Latin American history in school but was much more attuned to West Indian history and culture. This was one of the first works of fiction I'd read that showed the connecting threads of the various Caribbean sub-cultures.

The city of Cartagena figured into the pages of this novel and I was newly intrigued by it. Back then, we didn't speak much of "bucket lists", but I mentally added Cartagena to the list of places I wanted to explore one day. I didn't imagine it would stay on the to-do list for roughly 30 years.

Return to Colombia

Flash forward. I'm deep into the 21st Century and my wanderlust has taken me to about 20 countries, at least half of which I'd visited multiple times. Oddly, perhaps, some of the top destinations in my mind had not yet made it into my actual travel experiences. Despite four stops in Spain, I had not walked the courtyards of the Alhambra, nor had I so much as approached Russia, much less The Hermitage in St. Petersburg.

Cartagena, too, remained unexplored. Yet, in those long years since sitting off the Colombian coast, things had changed a bit. Not every problem in Colombia had been ironed out (or in the U.S., for that matter), but it had transformed. Medellín had gone from a notorious city, known for murders and kidnappings, to an international award-winner in urban innovation. For its part, Cartagena had reestablished itself as an attractive tourist destination.

As Colombia grew in popularity, with tourists and expats alike, I found my interest reignited. In 2022, I turned my sights south and booked a flight to Medellín. I was not disappointed. A 10-day sojourn served only to whet my appetite, so I returned for a full-month stay in 2023. I intended to venture to the coast during that time, particularly to Cartagena, but time and circumstances didn't cooperate. After all those years, I had made my formal return to Colombia - twice - without having gone to Cartagena.

I resolved to make at least one more trip to Colombia and, this time, I would make good on my 30-year-old goal of walking the streets of Cartagena.

Going Coastal

In early 2024, I booked another flight to Colombia, but this time I flew into Barranquilla, at the confluence of the Magdalena River and the Caribbean Sea.

From Barranquilla, I made my way along the coast, first going east for a brief survey of Santa Marta. The small, resort city was nice enough, but it was only a warm-up act for the main event to the west - Cartagena.

From Barranquilla, it's roughly 2 and a half hours by bus to Cartagena, for the equivalent of a modest $13 USD in each direction. Unless you have some personal reason for visiting Barranquilla, though, I would recommend simply flying into Cartagena. From a tourist standpoint, it is the premiere destination on the Caribbean coast.

The Old City

The main draw in Cartagena is the old walled city. This part of the city dates from the Spanish colonial period, which lasted from about 1533 to 1717. It is an architecturally alluring destination, packed with grand edifices along it's grid of narrow streets.

Surrounding the old city is the fortification wall, which served as protection for this important port city. It's quintessential oblong guardposts and narrow entry gates are typical of the Spanish colonial era, but not many places have maintained theirs as well as Cartagena has done. There are nearly 7 miles of wall surrounding the old city to this day. In the old days, Cartagena was nearly impregnable.

Take note before venturing to Cartagena that is it very hot and humid there. The Caribbean region of Colombia can feel notably hotter and more muggy than more popular destinations in the upper Caribbean. Maybe it was my imagination, but Cartagena seemed even hotter than elsewhere on the coast.

Unless you are spending your time at the beach, or by a pool, you may want to plan your day to avoid the hottest times. That said, Cartagena at night is almost like a whole new place. As dusk descends, so do the temperatures. The sea breeze rolls in and, suddenly, the outdoor comfort level becomes quite pleasant.

Do yourself a favor if you overnight in Cartagena. Enjoy the beautiful Caribbean sunset from atop the old city walls. There are numerous places to access the top of the wall, so you can have a stroll to enjoy the view. Better yet, choose from one of a handful of restaurants that are perched atop the wall. Cafe del Mar is known as one of the better places to watch the sunset, but it's not the only option. However, I must add that the food at Cafe del Mar rivals the incredible sunset.

Las Islas Rosarios

Being on the coast, Cartagena has beaches, as one might expect. The beaches near the old city can be crowded, but not too bad. The sea and sand are inviting, but in fairness, these are not among the best beaches in the Caribbean. If cost and convenience are your motivating factors, the beaches of Cartagena should be sufficient.

If you don't mind spending a little money and want an "upgraded" beach experience, I would recommend splurging on a jaunt to Las Islas Rosarios. This little chain of islands (what might be called keys or cays, elsewhere) lies a few miles off the coast, but from the central marina in Cartagena, is more like a 20-mile boat ride.

There are multiple companies operating day excursions to the islands. Prices and itineraries vary, but the one I chose cost approximately $180 for two persons. That includes the 45-minute boat ride, to and from, as well as lunch and (I think) one or two "free" drinks upon arrival. Be prepared, however, to either take or purchase most of your drinks. This isn't an open bar type of excursion.

The excursion I booked took me to the Cocoliso Island Resort on Isla Pueblito, which is the largest of the Rosario Islands. To say it was a relaxing day would be an understatement. The beach was sparsely populated, the atmosphere was tranquil and the views were worthy of an advertising poster, no Photoshop needed.

Not that I would, or could, drop $180 USD every time I want to put my toes in the water, but for a day trip, I considered this a good value. I'm not sure what price to put on beach-bliss, but I did not feel cheated. With multiple trips to different parts of Colombia, I am confident in saying that one of the best days I've spent in the country was my day in Las Islas Rosarios.

Final Thoughts

This article only scratches the surface, but I hope it whets your curiosity. For me, making a proper visit to Cartagena was a long time coming, but well worth the wait. I have little doubt that I will revisit this city in the not-so-distant future.

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I'll leave you with a few more photos to pique your interest.