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James' Odyssey from Lagos to accra

Borderlines and Business

By John KwasiPublished 5 months ago 5 min read
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James' Odyssey from Lagos to accra
Photo by Sheyi Owolabi on Unsplash

James adjusted his tie, a delicate hint of anxiety etched on his face as he prepared to embark on a journey from the bustling city of Lagos to the vibrant city of Accra. His business ventures required him to navigate through the intricate web of borders and checkpoints that connected these West African cities. The adventure was set to commence from Seme border, a notorious crossing known for its labyrinth of corruption.

As the bus rumbled along the dusty road towards Seme, James contemplated the choices ahead. Two routes beckoned him, each with its own set of challenges. The Idiriko route, peaceful in their crafty dealings, contrasted sharply with the chaotic and rude dealings of the Seme border. The latter, notorious for its corruption, struck fear into the hearts of passengers whenever its name was mentioned. Despite the fear, the Seme route was shorter, a preference for the bus drivers looking to save time and fuel.

By Frames For Your Heart on Unsplash

Approaching Seme, the passengers' anxiety heightened. The mere mention of Seme was enough to send shivers down their spines. James, however, approached the border with a seasoned composure. Stepping off the bus, the chaos of Seme greeted him—the touts, eager to offer their services before even reaching the main entrance.

At the border, a dubious choice awaited James—stamp his passport or maneuver through with an "Okada" on a secret footpath. The former attracts an additional "fee," a well-established tip to be offered by the travelers. The latter involved a skillful dance with a bike rider who navigats the intricate path, taking care of all the necessary tips along the way. James, a savvy businessman, opted to stamp his passport, as he had his own plans in motion.

The passport stamping room was a chaotic dance between touts and officers, each with their hidden motives. The touts carefully selects individuals they could manipulate and ushers them towards the officers. James, a frequent traveler with his own set of unconventional cargo, complied to ensure a smooth passage, knowing it was cheaper than risking a seizure of his goods.

Successfully navigating the Seme border, James faced a new challenge on the other side. The driver of the 18-seater bus had struck a deal with seasoned businessmen who avoided duties on their goods, aiming to sell at a more competitive rate. James, along with other key travelers accustomed to Seme's peculiarities, had to step down to assist. Contributions were pooled among the businessmen to settle the bill, a game where compliance was the cheaper option.

Exiting the Republic of Benin border posed fewer challenges, with the organized French-speaking officials employing a clear pricing structure. James and his fellow travelers smoothly navigated this leg of the journey, leaving the chaotic Seme behind.

By Ifeoluwa A. on Unsplash

The journey continued through the scenic landscapes of Benin. Coutono, a busy town along the coast, greeted them with heavy traffic and a sea of bike riders. Time passed, and the bus eventually arrived at the "Helerkonji" border, bridging two French-speaking countries, Togo and Benin. Here, corruption seemed more organized and almost legal. Passport holders paid less, others paid more, and the drivers collaborated in announcing the fees on the bus to expedite the process.

Passing through this checkpoint with relative ease, the bus entered Togo, a small country adorned with beautiful amenities. After a 40-minute drive, they reached the market called "Asigame." James decided to halt his journey for the day, seeking refuge in a nearby hotel, anticipating the continuation of his adventure the following day.

And so, the story of James' journey through the corridors of Seme to Asigame paused for the night, a tale woven with the threads of border intricacies, corruption, and the strategic maneuvers of a seasoned businessman.

Very early in the morning, James awoke with determination fuelling his every move. He had a business idea stirring in his mind – a quick call to some of his customers in Asigame to come and inspect the goods he had brought from Nigeria. Two hours of brisk business transactions later, James set his sights on the next leg of his journey: the Aflao border, the gateway between Togo and Ghana.

As the bus approached the Aflao border, James couldn't shake the unease that accompanied this particular crossing. Similar to Seme, Aflao operated with a discreet yet pervasive level of corruption, especially when dealing with their own citizens. James, having encountered challenges with Togolese officials before, steeled himself for what lay ahead.

True to his expectations, the Togolese side demanded payments for passport stamping and imposed stipends on the goods he carried. James navigated the familiar dance of corruption, paying the necessary fees to ensure a smooth passage. Crossing into Ghana, his home country, brought a sigh of relief. As a Ghanaian, he was exempted from entry fees. The passport check was swift, accompanied by a warm "Akwaba" in Twi, one of Ghana's major languages.

Beyond the border, the journey unfolded smoothly, with James now in more familiar territory. The bus made a stop to allow passengers to change currency to Ghanaian cedis. Black market currency traders entered the bus, conducting their transactions discreetly. A four-hour trip commenced with a cheerful song and the sight of a beautiful coastal line.

The bus reached the Sogakope Bridge, where hawkers offered bread and local delicacies. Authorities conducted checks to ensure travelers possessed proper documentation. This spot marked the beginning of a region rich in tranquillity, with the famous Volta River meandering through serene gardens. James, seemingly unfazed, continued his journey, even taking a brief nap.

Arriving at Tema, the lively harbour city, James witnessed the vibrant energy of the area. Passing through a beautiful toll gate, the bus entered the express road leading to Accra city. However, heavy traffic awaited them. Despite the delay, James finally arrived in Accra at exactly noon, concluding his journey through the intricacies of West African borders.

By Ifeoluwa A. on Unsplash

The tale of James' odyssey from Lagos to Accra, filled with the shades of corruption, strategic maneuvers, and the resilience of a seasoned businessman, reached its pinnacle as he stepped into the vibrant heart of Accra, a city that welcomed him with both the chaos of traffic and the warmth of familiarity.

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About the Creator

John Kwasi

Born in Ghana, I pursued my education from primary to university, majoring in Maths and Agric. Further studies at Bicton College refined my skills. I dedicated 25 years to teaching Maths, and now, as a writer, I passionately create ebooks.

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