This Salad Changed my Life

It's not very often that you can say that one salad changed your life. But the signature salad of Leroy Restaurant in Shoreditch, East London did exactly that.

It opened my eyes up to perfection in simplicity. That three simple ingredients, carefully chosen, can create a dish immeasurably more than the sum of its parts. It inspired me to change the way I think about preparing vegetables and salads and has led to countless imitations and variations at home.

And there are not many restaurant dishes I can say that about.

Who's Leroy?

Leroy restaurant was born out of the ashes of Ellory, which created waves in London's dining scene by winning a Michelin star only a year after it opened. The food offering was simple but well-executed, with chefs Matthew Young and Sam Kamienko focusing on unfussy dishes that highlighted the quality and provenance of the ingredients.

Sadly the restaurant didn't last long, struggling to attract customers in its unprominant Hackney location but no sooner had it closed than the same team opened a beautiful new site in Shoreditch, with Sam taking the reins in the kitchen. The light, spacious dining room providing the perfect setting for front-of-house ace Ed Thaw to create a relaxed environment spinning records from his own eclectic vinyl collection and sharing his love of great wines.

Leroy is the antithesis of the usual sterile, stuffy, aren't-we-so-clever Michelin dining experience.

Unsurprisingly, and completely deservedly, Leroy won a Michelin star within 6 months of opening. It became unarguably the most relaxed, enjoyable and affordable place to enjoy a starred meal in London.

Oh and the name?

Apparently, no one could get their head around the name Ellory, with customers using myriad mispronunciations - the most common of which was Leroy. The team decided that if you can't beat them, join them. So rather than continuing to fight on with Ellory, decided to name the new restaurant Leroy.

The Salad

Ok, so what is it?

Chicory, candied walnuts and Ossau-Iraty cheese with a Chardonnay vinegar dressing.

That's it.

But this humble salad quickly gained an almost cult-like following.

Why? It's a dish that over-delivers.

First, it is big. Salads can sometimes feel mean, overpriced, an afterthought. Leroy's is generous. Table-filling. Satisfying.

It's a clever dish without trying to be a clever dish.

Ed says that he is left cold by dishes that try too hard and the current tendency for restaurant servers to explain each intricate element and technique that makes each dish they bring to the table so impressive.

The clever part comes not from dozens of technical processes and fancy presentation. It lies in the careful selection and quality of ingredients that all play off each other to create a dish that is perfectly balanced and packed full of flavor.

The crunch and bitterness of the chicory and walnuts contrasts with the slight sweetness of the caramelization. The soft, salty creaminess of the cheese contrasts with the tang of the dressing.

Each element of flavour and texture in balance. Each bringing something to the party. The dish as a whole is more delicious than it should be.

It doesn't demand your thoughtful attention, but it wins your heart.

The DIY variations

Eating the real thing inspired me to recreate it at home. And whilst I have recreated the exact same combination of ingredients, I have endlessly experimented with my own variations too.

I started out switching the chicory for other leaves but quickly discovered that the same simple principle can be applied to almost any vegetable.

That creates almost limitless combinations of salad vegetables, cheeses, nuts and dressings but here are 3 of my favourites inspired by the Leroy original.

Braised baby leeks, ricotta, and almonds with a lemon and sherry vinegar dressing

Tender leeks combined with creamy ricotta and crunchy almonds make this one a real favorite.

Roasted beetroot, feta, and hazelnuts with a raspberry vinegar dressing

The bright raspberry-inflected dressing provides a perfect counterpoint to the earthiness of the beetroot.

New-season peas and broad beans with parmesan, walnuts, and white wine vinegar dressing

The beautiful sweetness of spring vegetables is balanced out by umami-rich parmesan and bitter walnuts.

Takeaways

What makes dishes like this special is that they leave behind cheffy ego and technique and focus on what restaurant dining should be about. They remind us that food is about nourishment. Food should satisfy. It should restore.

I've had plenty of restaurant meals that were technically very impressive but which left no great impression afterwards. There was plenty of skill but no heart and soul. They missed the point of what a restaurant is there to do.

The Leroy salad shows that you can take a few simple ingredients and turn them into something really special that you'll remember long after you've left the table.

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