Pizza Through the Centuries

Most likely you probably figure you know all there is to know about pizza. Well, I have read many different histories of pizza but this one seemed sort of fascinating as it takes us through many centuries. There is nothing to describing a pizza. It’s simply a baked Italian pie made up of a bread crust that has been covered with seasoned tomato sauce, cheese and an assortment of toppings like sausage, mushrooms or pepperoni. The word pizza supposedly comes from an Old Italian word meaning “a point” and in turn becomes the Italian word “pizzicare” meaning to “pinch” or “pluck”.

In the 6th century at the time of the Persian Empire Darius the Great led his soldiers on long marches. For quick meals, they baked a type of flatbread on their shields and topped it with dates and cheese.

The first history of Rome was written in the 3rd century B.C. by Marcus Porcius Cato also known as Cato the Elder wrote the first history of Rome in the 3rd century BC. Included in the history was the mention of a flat round dough baked on stones and dressed with olive oil, herbs and honey.

“The Aeneid” was written by Virgil, a Roman poet of the Augustan period. In the translated version in 1st century B.C. there is a description of the legendary origin of the Roman nation, describing circles of bread or cakes –

"Beneath a shady tree, the hero spread 

His table on the turf, with cakes of bread; 

And, with his chiefs, on forest fruits he fed. 

They sate; and, (not without the god's command,) 

Their homely fare dispatch'd, the hungry band 

Invade their trenchers next, and soon devour, 

To mend the scanty meal, their cakes of flour. 

Ascanius this observ'd, and smiling said: 

"See, we devour the plates on which we fed."

Roman recipes can be found in such great cookery books as “De Re Coquinaria” by Marcus Gavius Apicius. In the 1st century A.D., Apicius was a culinary expert and through his writings, people have been able to learn about ancient Roman cuisine. Unfortunately, Apicius loved food so much that he was afraid of dying of hunger and through this fear he poisoned himself when he had financial difficulties. He had recipes with instructions to put ingredients on a bread base such as chicken, pine kernels, cheese, garlic, mint pepper and oil all of which can be the ingredients of a pizza.

On August 24, 79 AD Pompeii was smothered by the ashes of the erupting Mount Vesuvius. Later while excavating evidence was discovered in the form of a flat flour cake that was baked and widely eaten in Pompeii and nearby Neopolis at that time. In certain Pompeii shops, they found marble slabs and other tools resembling what would be used to make pizza in a pizzeria. A statue from Pompeii is on display at The Museo Nazionale in Naples, Italy and because of its stance, it’s called I pizzaiolo.

In the 16th century in 1522 from the New World from Peru tomatoes were brought to Europe. At first, people thought that tomatoes were poisonous but later on poor people in Naples started adding the tomatoes to their yeast dough creating the first simple pizza. All they had to feed their families was usually flour, olive oil, lard, cheese and herbs. At this time Spanish soldiers frequented the Tavern of the Cerrigloi and enjoyed the specialty of the house – pizza.

By the 17th century, pizza had become popular in Naples and even visitors would head into the poverty-stricken areas to get a taste of this peasant dish which was called “pizzaioli”.

In the late 19th century vendors started selling pizza in the streets of Naples for breakfast, lunch and dinner. The pizza pie came from a large tray cooked in the baker’s oven with toppings like anchovies and mushrooms. As pizza became more popular stalls were set up in which the dough was shaped when customers made their order. These stalls soon turned into the pizzeria, an open-air place for people to come together, eat, drink and socialize.

In 1889 King Umberto of Italy and his wife, Queen Margherita di Savoia were on holiday in Naples. They requested that the most popular pizza chef Raffaele Esposito come to their palace. so that they could taste his specialties. The chef and his wife, Maria Giovanna Brandi created three different kinds of pizzas – one with pork fat, cheese and basil, one with garlic, oil and tomatoes and the third with mozzarella, basil and tomatoes (the colors of the Italian flag). The queen favored the third pie the most. She sent the pizza chef a thank you letter and this official document dated June 1889 and signed Galli Camillo, head of the table of the Royal Household. It can be seen in the rooms of the Pietro il Pizzaiolo restaurant to this day. Raffaele Esposito dedicated this pizza to the queen calling it “Pizza Margherita” and established Naples as the pizza capital of the world.

The Italian-American population arrived in the U.S.in the 20th century. They called the first American pizzas Tomato Pies. Even to this day, the tomato pie can be found in the Northeastern U.S. particularly in the Italian bakeries in central New York. Tomato pies are created opposite of pizzas – first the cheese, then the toppings followed by the tomato sauce.

The first pizzeria in the U.S. was opened by Gennaro Lombardi in 1905 in New York City at 53 ½ Spring Street which is now part of Little Italy. In the 1930s Lombardi added tables and chairs and also sold spaghetti. Lombardi’s was revived in 1994 and today can still be found on Spring Street.

The first commercial pizza mix “Roman Pizza Mix” was created by Frank A. Fiorello and produced in Worcester, Massachusetts in 1948.

In the 1950s Americans really started getting into pizza. It was also loved by many celebrities of Italian origin like Jerry Colonna, Frank Sinatra, Jimmy Durante and baseball great Joe DiMaggio. Dean Martin referred to pizza in his romantic song “That’s Amore” – “when the moon hits your eyes like a big pizza pie, that’s amore”.

Frozen pizza came along in 1957 and the first was marketed by Celentano Brothers. It soon became one of the most popular frozen food.

Pizza Hut was founded in 1958 and Domino’s came along in 1960. Pizza Hut was the first pizzeria to deliver pizza to space in 2001.

On December 9, 2009, the European Union made a ruling to protect Naples’ Neapolitan pizzas. In the ruling, they stated that Neapolitan pizza was now part of Europe’s food heritage and all pizzerias supplying and making real Neapolitan pizzas must comply with strict traditional standards in regard to ingredients and preparation. They can only use San Marzano tomatoes and fresh buffalo mozzarella cheese. This protected status let producers not only boast about their exclusivity, but they can also charge a premium for the pizza.