How to Pick the Right Exfoliant

What is exfoliation?

Exfoliation is the removal or sloughing of the outer layer of the skin. There are many different types of exfoliating treatments to remove dead skin cells available including mechanical and chemical exfoliation. Exfoliating the surface of your skin will result in a smoother texture, eliminate damaged and contaminated cells, bring new cells to the surface more rapidly, and allow for better product penetration.

Although all skin types can benefit from exfoliation, it is crucial to understand the condition of your skin to help you determine the correct form of exfoliation for you.

Types of Exfoliation

Mechanical Exfoliation

Mechanical exfoliation is when you are physically rubbing the skin to remove dead skin cells. This includes:

• Scrubs
• Washcloths
• Facial cleansing brushes
• Microdermabrasion treatments
• Dermaplane facials
• Dry brushes for the body

Chemical Exfoliation

Chemical exfoliation is when ingredients dissolve the dead skin cells and the bonds that are holding them together. This includes:

• Alpha Hydroxy Acids (glycolic, lactic, malic, mandelic, citric, and tartaric acid)
• Beta Hydroxy Acids (salicylic acid)
• Enzymes (papain, bromelain, and pancreatin)
• Retinoids (retinol, tretinoin, tazorac, adapalene)

What type of exfoliation is best for you?

Now that we know what is considered an exfoliant it is important to choose which forms you will incorporate into your routine so you do not over-exfoliate. Here is a general breakdown of my recommendations based on skin type:

Oily skin can tolerate the most based on the amount of sebum that is produced. This skin type can usually tolerate an intense exfoliant like prescription tretinoin at night paired with a gentle exfoliant like the Dermalogica Daily Microfoliant enzyme powder during the day.

Combination skin responds well to an intense exfoliation once a week that combines hydration and AHAs for a nice balance. Dermalogica Rapid Reveal Peel is a great superficial peel to do at home for a quick polish without a visit to the spa.

Dry skin works well with leave-on cream-based exfoliants that will eat away dead skin cells without stripping any oils. My personal favorite is the Obagi Exfoderm lotion.

Sensitive skin is recommended to only use gentle exfoliants to avoid irritating your skin. Enzymes are the perfect match for this skin type. Check out the Dermalogica MilkFoliant if your skin is not friends with anything else.

When to Exfoliate

In addition to understanding your skin type and choosing the right exfoliant, it's crucial to consider the timing and frequency of your exfoliation routine. Exfoliating at the appropriate times can maximize the benefits while minimizing the risk of irritation or over-exfoliation. Here are some guidelines to help you determine when to incorporate exfoliation into your skincare regimen:

• Frequency: The frequency of exfoliation depends on your skin type and the type of exfoliant you're using. As a general rule, most skin types can benefit from exfoliating 1-3 times per week. However, it's essential to pay attention to how your skin responds and adjust the frequency accordingly. If you have sensitive or dry skin, you may need to exfoliate less frequently to avoid irritation.

• Evening Routine: I highly recommend exfoliating in your evening skincare routine. This allows the skin to repair and regenerate overnight without any sun exposure, making it more receptive to the benefits of exfoliation. Moreover, exfoliating at night helps remove the day's accumulation of dirt, pollution, and makeup from the skin's surface.

• Avoid Exfoliating on Active Breakouts or Irritated Skin: If you have active acne breakouts, open wounds, sunburns, or any other form of skin irritation, it's best to avoid exfoliating those areas. Exfoliation can further irritate the skin and delay the healing process. Instead, focus on soothing and healing those areas before resuming exfoliation.

• Adjust Based on Seasonal Changes: Your skin's needs may vary depending on the season. During colder months, when the skin tends to be drier, you may want to reduce the frequency of exfoliation or opt for gentler exfoliants. In contrast, during warmer months when the skin can be oilier, you might consider increasing the frequency or using more intense exfoliation methods to control excess oil and prevent clogged pores.

Remember that finding the right exfoliant for your skin requires understanding your skin type and concerns. By tailoring your exfoliation routine to your skin's needs, you can achieve a healthier, more radiant complexion. Always listen to your skin, observe its reactions, and adjust your exfoliation frequency and products accordingly.