The Best Survival Guide for First-Time Ex-pats to Bali

This essay is about "ex-pat living" in Bali and greater Indonesia.

A common question I get asked by Indonesians is why. Why would I want to live in their country? I'm from rich first-world America. They are from a poor, developing nation. What could be the attraction? It is a good question.

NOTHING COULD HAVE PREPARED ME FOR THIS.

Making mistakes goes without saying. We all make them. Try and learn and move on. Reversing a course is not always so easy in a foreign country.

Having said that it's hard to impossible to imagine what life is like in a country halfway around the world.

Today, you can Google search for everything. Consider all the positives and negatives you can find and make an assessment.

But, there is nothing better than the reconnaissance mission. Visit first before you move.

Examples of people who come to Bali to conduct an illegal retreat, research projects, investments, or are invited as VIPs need not worry about the same unknowns an ex-pat faces.

I moved to Paradise in 2011 before there were Bali Facebook community pages, Blogs, and Vlogs, and before 20,000 Russians built a Little Moscow on the island.

All I had to go by were alluring photos of green pristine rice fields, colorful Balinese dressed up in their exotic ceremonial costumes, Wikipedia, and one old National Geographic documentary.

In addition, there was the Lonely Planet Guide and the Hollywood fictional memoir romance story, "Eat, Pray, Love." I read Gilbert's book and by coincidence lived next door to where the author lived in Ubud, Bali.

The new International airport was constructed in 1969 and remodeled in 2013.

The Internet arrived in the late 2000s.

Several new theme parks and malls began to sprout up. The island zoomed from the 19th to the 21st Century in about 25 years.

From that moment on Bali changed forever. What will become of Bali in the 21st Century? It's anybody's guess but the warning signs of overbuilding and pollution are alarming.

I relied on what I was being told by ex-pats who had lived there for a long time.

I had never met the ex-pats in person and our connection was they were musicians and I was a professional agent. Before I left for Bali, they signed a representation agreement with me. I thought I was being pragmatic and organized.

Beyond the musician's sketchy details, my research needed a serious fact check. I hadn't a clue about what Bali was like. Life in a country that was a different universe. A decision based on photos and words from strangers.

I was going there to live, not a travel journal backpack trip.

I was a late 50s Baby Boomer. A victim of the 2000s Great Recession over 50 out of work club.

Having lost my job and been unemployed for over two years I faced homelessness. Lacking other options, I sold my home, for half of its original value to a young immigrant couple. They came to America for a better life - the same reason I was leaving it.

I was about to discover what it meant to be an immigrant, only in reverse. In an act of soup line fear, I booked a one-way ticket to Bali, Indonesia.

Everything that added up to the past 50 years of my identity was liquidated. Each item I lost felt like a butcher chopped off a part of my body. My suitcase was full of bloody fingers and toes.

Contact with my adult daughter would become a challenge. Then there was the even more frightening prospect of losing a reason to want to live.

My beloved cat, Boo Boo, was adopted by my daughter. Anything I couldn't carry, except my guitar and luggage, went with me.

There was a sense of freedom in jumping off a cliff. The unpredictable winds of change fingered my hair. The smell of lightning over a rice field, the hunger for a dream over the sacred smoke of 10,000 temple fires.

A flute in my head played and filled the canyonlands of my skull. An ancient melody that sounded like how a runaway boy once saw his life outside a bus window.

I was crazy in a sick society.

The jet was somewhere over the Pacific before it dawned on me that this was no dream. I watched a sun that didn't set. I accepted a red wine from the flight attendant and gulped down the reality of where I was headed.

All I knew about Bali was from a yoga musician I knew who lived there. He said it was cheap. Until I had a better idea of where I was going, it was a type of cheap that I could swing for a while.

The trip would take at least 27 hours. I would arrive a few days before Christmas in an alien world. I had plenty of time to sit there and stare out the airplane window. I pushed the rewind button flashing on the tiny screen in my hand and wondered if I was making the right decision.

Welcome to Paradise

My next three years in Ubud.

In the first months, I suffered from an incurable problem with dysentery. After many attempts to seek help to no avail at the local clinic. I finally cured myself with an antibiotic.

I went through several mishaps with unscrupulous ex-pat landlords, who made the hard-to-deal-with Balinese look like saints.

I dislocated both my big toes from slipping on the wet rock leading to my villa door.

In Bali, the New Year is called Nyepi. On that night when it's forbidden to leave your premises, I inadvertently drank the Bali moonshine "Araq." After violently vomiting for hours, I passed out and lost my memory for 24hrs. I woke up in a 3rd World hospital not knowing my name.

One truth was that the villa rentals were cheap. But the owners would never repair them ex-pat or Balinese alike.

I listed half my villa on the then (Indonesian illegal) Airbnb site and broke even on my rent.

Everybody it seemed was in the illegal housing rental game. If I had a dollar for every Life Coach and Yoga instructor card pushed into my hand for a rental discount I'd be rich.

My small friendship network wasn't from a lack of effort. The ex-pats I met came from every corner of the planet and were tribal and into things that didn't interest me.

I spent a great deal of time alone. That's not to say anyone was wrong. If you can't transcend it move on.

My two musician ex-pat clients disappeared and I learned they didn't have work Visa. Contracts are worthless between foreigners on the island. Like the lawlessness of the American Wild West or Pirates of the Caribbean-whatever is in writing isn't worth the paper it is printed on.

I also entrusted the locals more than the ex-pats because, mostly, I knew where they were coming from. If you had a notarized contract with a Balinese you stood a chance it honored.

The area outside of Ubud where I lived was going through a burglary wave and I slept with a knife under my pillow.

I thought of building a small villa of my own. I gave a local the money to do it and he ran off leaving me a semi-constructed building.

Many months and dollars later, I finished the villa. My first rental guest was raped and murdered by a bandit in it. Not only did the young school teacher lose her life but I almost ended up in prison over the matter.

Even though I had nothing to do with her death, the landowners charged me US 1,000 to cleanse my villa of evil spirits. The police wanted a whopping US 21,000 fine. The reason was my guest nor I reported her passport upon arrival.

During my years in Ubud, there were many good times too, I can't complain. My daughter visited and I met a couple from my hometown in the USA who helped me edit my first book. All had a good time.

But the bad parts never would have happened in my former home.

Not all visits or expatriations end in mistakes in Bali.

My mistakes are some I can write off as happenstance but others I own. What happened is not to suggest that it will happen to you.

The takeaway is to prepare for the unexpected. Be flexible, adaptable, and patient, and learn the ropes. Without knowing the language your chances of long-term survival are not good. You will need help.

Bali has succumbed to bad planning and regulation. Which has led to pollution, overcrowding, horrible traffic, chaos, crime, and frustration. Another word for it would be "greed."

Parts of the island are better than others.

Areas of Bali's capital Denpasar featured anything goes. Prostitutes, penis trinkets, rowdy bars, drunk tourists, crime, and a lot of hustle. But to be fair, mixed in with the bad there are nice shops, restaurants, festivals, and people of all races trying to earn a living and get along with each other.

The image of Bali being a paradise remains tattooed in the minds of unknowing foreigners.

My friends think I've hit the big time living there! Every year a new wave of ex-pat dreamers splash ashore and many float away on a life raft.

The turnover is dizzying and makes it hard to care who anyone is.

Many ex-pats have successful businesses in Bali. I am one to believe they started long ago when everything was much less expensive and competitive.

Since the dawn of time, people have dreamed of paradise on Earth. Those places include Atlantis, Xanadu, Shangri-La, and recently, Bali.

Take your selfie

Public toilets, including some hospitals lack soap and toilet paper, packs of wild, rabid dogs abound, and restaurants lack inspection. Bali belly, Dengue, and Typhus are prevalent.

If those things don’t get you a python in your kitchen cupboard, a drunken tourist on a motorbike, or perhaps you'll drink an ethanol-spiked drink, get skin cancer, and end up in a brawl over a surfing scuttle. On your first day, your phone and ATM could be pick-pocketed. Perhaps, the landlord won’t refund your deposit.

Nothing could have prepared me for this.

Once you get out of the city you might find a spot where you feel like the only person on the planet.

Many locals are wonderful. If you open your mind to it there's a lot to learn like Gamelan music, Balinese art, dance, temples, and Hinduism.

Make your good memories album.

Chill out and take in a local jazz band. You can live with a straight romantic partner without a problem but if you're Gay I suggest keeping it to yourself.

Unlike non-tourist areas on other islands, there's no limit on alcohol and the sense of false freedom is so intoxicating it corrupts the mind. So much so, that tourists can be found taking photos in the nude in sacred holy sites.

A Balinese man saved my life and if it wasn't for his help I would have died or disintegrated.

A Balinese editor published my writing in a local magazine. Many other locals went out of their way for me in ways people from where I came from would have never done.

I was also fortunate to meet an Indonesian woman. Although she couldn't speak English moved in with me and saved me from prison.

What's left of the lost green jewel of Bali? Maybe it can be best seen from the balcony of a private 5-star luxury hotel and a guided tour in your air-conditioned car.

The more adventurous can find parts of the old Bali and befriend a loyal local friend.

The old Bali is still there. You must dig harder to find it.

My book about living in Bali

Do you want to raise your children in Bali? I see that question a lot on Social Media. If you're seeking advice and opinions from strangers. Look before you leap.

Bali Education

At the last count 2021, 20 schools offering foreign curricula were operating in Bali. Special focus schools like Australia. France, International Cultural School, and the expensive famous dream school - Green School. Look before you leap.

School is expensive! For a top-quality international school - you're up for $15k - $20k for something that barely matches public school options in Australia (which are close to free /taxpayer-funded). There are options for $5k - $8k but there are issues like having to move down a class level or others - that need careful checking.

Bali is part of Indonesia

The island is part of Indonesia. And although Bali has certain self-governance, it is under the thumb of Jakarta the world's largest Muslim-majority country in the world.

What does that mean? Like anywhere. There are national political issues. Local issues to contend with and some can affect you so read their local media. You can learn a lot more by reading the Jakarta Post.

According to World Data Indonesia is a developing nation. 25 million Indonesians still live on less than US$1 per day. Indonesia is now the sixth country of greatest wealth inequality in the world.

The four richest men in Indonesia have more wealth than the combined total of the poorest 100 million people.

The average life expectancy for men is 70 years old and for women 75 years old.

With that in mind, consider extreme poverty as your neighbor. And any time the haves walk beside the have-nots that desperation can lead to trouble. Not only in Indonesia but anywhere.

Indonesia is the world's fourth most populous nation. The world's 10th largest economy. An emerging middle-income country. Before the pandemic, Indonesia had made enormous gains in poverty reduction. Cutting the poverty rate to more than half since 1999, to 9.8% in 2018. The Indonesian archipelago has 17,508 islands, (3,181 mi). From east to west containing the most volcanoes of any country in the world. There are over 300 native languages. Six religions are official i.e. Islam, Protestantism, Catholicism, Hinduism, Buddhism, and Confucianism.

In 2017, The last time the Government counted the population was about 264 million.

Indonesia is also the second-largest user of Facebook and TikTok in the world.

Do not assume the Indonesian elite class does not care about the struggle of others. One Indonesian wealthy musician donated money to my daughter's liver transplant fund.

TIPS

In Indonesia, there is no Civil Rights protection for foreigners.

Keep your VISA updated and don't drive a motorbike into a swimming pool. Selling drugs will lead to standing in front of a firing squad.

The house I funded for my wife, I can't own. Despite a prenup agreement that states joint ownership, on divorce, I'll never get my day in court. Many foreigners holding such documents can argue otherwise. I wish them luck.

Do not make negative comments about their politicians, police, and military on social media. An innocent remark about the Mosque being too loud can land you in jail.

Ready to pack your bags? Remember, "If you don't like it, leave," (local encouragement).

As a developing nation, there are long lines and traffic congestion everywhere.

Patience would be an understated quality an ex-pat needs to survive.

Besides the fact, you can't drink the water. And there is no proper waste disposal.

The exception a truck might pick up the rubbish and dump it somewhere in the jungle. The neighbor next door might burn their rubbish with no concern about where the smoke goes.

On the road it's risky, there is no insurance, and accidents are settled on the spot.

The wires loop above the street corners like dangling spaghetti noodles.

One city is as nondescript as the other. If the product is in demand one street will sell the same item in triplicate.

There is little regulation on anything except narcotics and Visas. And if you're living in Jawa with an Indonesian woman you'll need a marriage book.

All sales are final. Getting a repairman may take days.

Appreciate their pride and don't complain.

Want to stay for good? You can but for a price. There is no immigration path. You must renew your Visa forever.

Health Care

Health care is by Western standards questionable. It's better or worse depending on where you are. As an ex-pat, you can buy the Indonesian public health service called BPJS. But don't expect too much except a long line and if you're lucky you will be okay.

Indonesians who can afford it go to Singapore and Kuala Lumpur for their health care needs.

International Health Insurance is expensive! You're up for $4k - 6k per annum for reasonable family cover including Medivac.

A not well-known fact is that Indonesian doctors can sue you for defamation. You can do nothing. There's no such thing as a liability. Remember, as I've said before be careful what you say and to whom you say it.

I was misdiagnosed twice for skin cancer. The Doctor/University Professor recommended that a plastic surgeon fix it.

The dentist took several trips but they finally got it right. A crown cost me USD 75.00 In America, it would be USD 1,000.

I hope whatever is wrong with you, they have the experience and technology to handle it. If you call an ambulance it will take an hour or longer to arrive. Sometimes, the ambulatory service can ask for a video in advance. Depending on the time of day and where you are before they arrive and then there's the journey to the hospital. The traffic tries to yield to emergency vehicles sometimes they can't. There is no place to go.

Dealing with the Government

The bureaucracy: anything involving dealing with government agencies (visas, permits, licenses, business registrations, school enrollments) can be difficult, often takes time, patience, and often many unnecessary steps in a process.

I learned patience and acceptance, letting me be happy, but I observe many ex-pats who struggle with that contributing to their dissatisfaction.

Usually, you have options to do processes yourself which is time-consuming, or paying someone to help which can get expensive.

Greater Indonesia

After three years in Ubud, Bali I moved to Yogyakarta aka Kota Seniman, (the city of artists). Yogyakarta, (central Java) is a place with over 3,000 artists. 300,000 University students call home. Jogya for short considered the heart of Indonesian culture.

Besides the horrible traffic, Jogya is everything Bali is not. It's quiet and low-key, and the locals are halus (soft) in manner. The hustle and bustle of the obnoxious, selfie tribes that litter many of Bali's beaches and bars are gone.

Jogya (the city) is an urban experience filled with art galleries and artists to go with them. I befriended many. The housing was cheaper than in Bali. I liked the vibe and walking for much of my needs was a bonus.

Living on a remote Bali rice field had its meditative moments but it grew tiring.

If not for the few women wearing hijabs, I noticed no difference between the Balinese Hindu and Jogya's majority Muslim. If there had been underlying bad feelings between the two religious groups in the past, tolerance replaced them.

My list of Indonesian friends grew into the hundreds and I felt more connected. I met many artists celebrities and business tycoons. I visited every temple, theatrical, musical, and beach the area offered.

I was also making regular trips to the urban jungle of Jakarta. Hanging out with Indonesian music celebrities.

Two years passed, and I felt I accomplished a lot in Jogya but I saw the end of the Jalan. My wife was tired of being in tow of my wandering and wanted a home. The compass pointed to her hometown Pandaan in East Jawa Timur.

Pandaan is a small town nestled between two mountain ranges. A small town that employed many locals in foreigner-owned shoe factories. What I would describe as "sweatshop" shoes are built for a dollar and sold for hundreds of dollars abroad.

About two hours to the south is the largest active volcano in Indonesia, Mt. Bromo. The city of Malang, and Batu, and to the north, about two hours is Indonesia's second-largest city, Surabaya. Another two hours to the east lies the ocean. And the heart of Javanese magic, the Dukun Santet in Probolinggo.

Outside the town, the mountains are pristine and feature quaint villages. Next to poverty are two professional 18-hole golf courses. Resorts with horses, and many hotels. About 10 minutes from my wife's village on top of the mountain tourist resort area called Tretes.

My village or kampung is called Plintahan. It consists of 1,000 friendly locals. Poor, but resilient and generally happy and kindhearted. The average income for most Plintahan villagers is about 1 USD-10 per day. Besides gifts from neighbors and the Mosque, there are no social means programs so you are on your own to survive. The family relies on each other. A job is scarce.

My wife's Uncle Mito is 120 years old and the rest of her family lives in villas connected. Helped by neighbors, she built a nice townhouse-sized home on family property for about USD 20,000. In Los Angeles, CA I figured the same two million dollars.

The Plintahan community news was announced by loudspeakers from the local Mosque.

Guns are illegal.

There are rarely arguments between neighbors. Each family contributes to a community chest to cover the expense of (2) all-night guards, trash pick up, and funerals. To get by many borrow money from the community chest, their employer, and a credit company. They're all in debt. I am also one of the only people who can afford an Internet connection and air conditioning.

I am the first white person to live in Plintahan. The locals referred to in humor as "bule kampung" (white villager). As such the notoriety has made me a local celebrity. I have participated in many weddings and funerals.

They're honored that a foreigner wants to be part of their community. I felt marooned in this world far from my Minnesota former home. I had no like-minded community. The reason, mostly, is language. Not knowing the language will alienate you. To test my theory try and live with a spouse that can't speak English!

Indonesians are polite but it's more of an auto-response.

For example, the Japanese bow. It's an ancient traditional courtesy but that doesn't mean they're your new best friend. Making a lasting friendship with an Indonesian takes time and is often earned. In America, we can cold call or contact people we don't know and try to connect. In Indonesia, you need to meet in person and build a relationship. Something involving money to their benefit always helps.

Where I am there are no libraries. Except for school books, many do not read. I had my book " Guitarlo" translated into Indonesian. To my delight many Indonesians from other parts of the country liked it.

The indigenous music of dangdut blasts from the speakers of many Indonesian homes. Weddings and celebrations. If you can sing or play guitar learning a dangdut song can help make you popular.

Indonesians love humor!

Check out the young, Australian Vlogger, Londokampung. His silly language-based, prank videos made him rich. Another foreigner leveraging the Indonesian language for notoriety and money is Vlogger, Sascha Stevenson. Sascha has been a long-time ex-pat and paid her dues as a teacher turned media celebrity.

These Vloggers are another example of the power of language. Unlock it and a new world will open to you. These Vloggers could never make money like this in their home country.

Marriage

Do you want (3) wives? Yes, it's legal if you claim Islam as your religion but you need the blessing of your first wife and other permission. If your fiance is Indonesian one of you will need to convert. Chances are if she's Muslim you will have to convert to Islam. After you compile all the paperwork don't worry it's easy :).

Cost of Living

How much does it cost to live in Bali/Indonesia?

My lifestyle revolves around my retirement pension, USD 1,700.00 per month. You can Google the current exchange rate. With that amount of money, I can afford the items listed below and budgets vary according to lifestyle and change.

A health disaster without insurance could wipe you out.

The cost for my spousal KITAP is USD 430.00 for (5) years (East Java Timur price). A work VISA costs USD 1,000 and is also good for 5 years. In Bali, I was paying USD 1,000 per year plus a trip to Singapore for a retirement VISA.

By common Indonesian standards, I am upper middle class.

I hope you have more money than me! Note: my villa is now paid off. My total monthly estimated Indonesian living expense is on average USD 550.00! per month.

My villa in 2015 cost USD 20,000 to build and that included the land. It's two levels with a large terrace, living room, kitchen, bathroom, and bedroom. It's similar to an American townhouse in Los Angeles and that would cost upwards of 2 million dollars. Since 2015 it has more than tripled in value.

Compared to their home country, ex-pats refer to how much less the cost of living is in Indonesia. But, there's a reason it's cheaper.

Other perks?

I can get a 90-minute full-body massage in my house for less than USD 5.00. Great haircut for less than 50 cents. Almost anything is repaired for cheap. Local restaurants are also inexpensive. My motor scooter aka "rice rocket" costs USD 1,200 new and uses (1) tank of petrol per month. Train, bus, taxi, pacek, (bike cart), or plane domestic transportation are low-cost. A beautiful resort swimming pool rents USD 2.50 for the day.

Can't break your Western diet? The food prices will set you back because it's imported.

Plus the variety of foods in markets (depending on where you are) is limited. What do the locals eat with an income of USD 75.00 per month? Tofu, Tempeh, egg, chicken, Ikan Asin (cheap fish), gado-gado, sayur sop, pezel, nasi goreng, and rice. Plus, add chili sauce! BTW - rice costs 4x more per kilo in Bali.

Alcohol

A bottle of imported wine will cost USD 27.00 +++. The Bali wine isn't bad and it costs USD 20.00 for a 2 liter box. The local beer, Bintang depending on if it's a large bottle varies around USD 1.75. Imported booze will set you back.

Prescriptions

It would be helpful if you could enter a search on an Indonesian medicine website like Kamia Pharma and see if your medication is available and the dose. Often the dose is different and your medication is not available.

What is not cheaper?

Other items like smartphones. computers, TVs, and other electronic gadgets cost the same as in America. Automobiles cost the same as 1st world economies too. Across the board, not everything in Indonesia is less expensive. Housing, labor, motor scooters, food, and locally made goods are a definite yes.

Other considerations - the ex-pat factor

Familial and friend Dislocation

Accepting the fact that not everyone where you came from will approve or care how you live. Names like "runaway" and subjected to attitudes. Including what you are doing is irresponsible, bad, or selfish. Much of this noise is jealousy and ignorance-based.

Ignore it.

So many have had dreams that will never come to fruition. When they see the few who have they look for negativity.

Living near a Mosque

Consider that Indonesia is the largest Muslim population on Earth. If you have an issue with that better decide to live elsewhere. Except for Bali, there is a Mosque everywhere. (5) Times per day the Mosque broadcasts prayers that can be heard from afar so whatever you do.

Don't complain.

To complain is considered blasphemy and you can go to jail for it or worse. If you listen to some of the prayer singers, they are both talented and wonderful to listen to. The din of many praying amplified is moving. This a fine example of the power and importance of religion in Indonesia.

Change

Indonesia is an ongoing, ever-evolving nation with laws and rules often changing daily.

There is a lot of misinformation online and on non-updated Government websites. Tourist photos can deceive. Opinions vary. When you're on the outside looking in it's hard to figure out. When you're on the inside looking out it's still hard to convey.

Poverty

Indonesia is a poor country. Poverty is agonizing and even with the thickest skin, the pain will sink into your heart. If you are insensitive to the lives of have-nots you should choose a different home.

Adjustment disorder

Adjusting to an alien culture takes time. Learn to go with the flow or talk to Tom Hank's existential companion - "Wilbur" the painted soccer ball in the movie Castaway.

I ain't got nobody I can depend on. It's not just a song by Santana.

Self-reliance is a big part of living abroad. It is also a cultural trait of being Indonesian. Even if supported by many we are all alone in the world. This can become magnified in a foreign country where language and cultural differences are to the extreme.

Conclusion

No matter where you try and live the grass may always seem to be greener. Your new life abroad will come down to what you can tolerate. Letting go of modern conveniences. Ease of access. Adaptability. The trial and tribulations of a new set of cultural mores and language. Entitlements, and the fact you are now the stranger.

Living abroad will test you to the breaking point. If you survive you'll remain if not you'll pull your hair and scream. It's difficult to live in a place where English is not well known and laws are Draconian. The reality you are familiar with turned upside down.

To survive and find happiness abroad, you must give up some of your beliefs, mores, and way of life. A part of you must let go as you deal with things you do not agree with but must tolerate.

This is difficult to do.

It takes a strong will to change. A part of you will be gone. Few can deal with that.

The ex-pat experience has rewards but it's not for everyone. And remember, appreciate Indonesian pride and don't complain.

Sampai jumpa (see you soon)

My stories and articles are in Indonesian media outlets such as the Bali Advertiser, Tirto, and the Indonesian Expat Magazine.

My Indonesian record label Indojazzia, put a young pianist from Bali, Eric Sondhy, on worldwide music charts.

Curator for the music podcast show 107.3 2Ser Australia. The program featured the latest in cutting-edge music from the Indonesian archipelago.

The first foreigner to participate in the Indonesian Music Awards (AMI).

Managed the internationally acclaimed Indonesian band, I Know You Well Miss Clara.

Director of Business Development for the Ubud Concert Series and the Indonesian Music Expo (IMEX).

Other resources

A Brief History of Bali, A Geek in Indonesia, Journey Through Indonesia, and A Brief History of Indonesia by Tim Hannigan. Island of the Dogs (documentary). Hotel K and Snowing in Bali by Kathryn Bonella, excellent photography books are found at Afterhours Books. For more in-depth reading on Indonesia check out the books Julia's Jihad and Indonesia: The Improbable Nation. I also recommend the Youtube videos by ex-pat Vloggers, Sascha Stevenson and Londo Kampung.

There are many online resources too from Facebook to Living in Indonesia and the Indonesian Expat publication.