Marrakech in the Summer

The picture is a bit misleading. There is no snow in the Atlas Mountains in July. When I checked summer temperatures in Morocco, I selected Essauira - but finally, I went to Marrakech without double-checking. The temperature difference is only about 20 degrees Celsius. This is how I survived and what I visited.

Day 1: The old town of Marrakech

Early July, 44 degrees, but the air is dry. Our Marrakech in summer adventure began at a magnificent Riad, nestled in the eastern confines of the city's ancient Medina. The Riad was a sanctuary of tranquility against the backdrop of the city's bustling chaos, with a few rooms, an open Atrium with a pool, and a roof terrace. On our first day, we navigated through the chaotic city streets. 4 people on a tiny motorbike, the sleeping kid in row 4 somewhat fixed by the hand of the mother. Cats strolling around or lying in a corner with their status blurred (just like Schrödinger’s cat). It takes you some minutes to adjust, then you adapt. If you need info, don´t let them approach you. Approach somebody in a shop, and they surely will help without asking for money.

The Souks are remains of old professions and dealerships where you get everything you want to take home. Made in China or Morocco, who knows, but everything in the Medina looks great, and with no emphasis, you negotiate the price down a third, with more persistence a half. Very positive: The classical tourist crap like postcards (yes, they still exist!) is not dominant. Some of the Souks are covered, and you enjoy the shade.

The grand finale of our exploration on day 1 was the legendary square, Jemaa el-Fnaa. This is where the rhythm of Marrakech resonates, offering a cultural spectacle filled with music, dance, and food. Enjoy a freshly pressed fruit cocktail or watch the snakes in the evening – you may have to set aside your concerns about animal welfare for a moment. As for the heat: Siesta is required. In the evening, you may want to pay reference to the Moroccan cuisine in the Fine Mama and then enjoy a drink on one of the rooftop terraces around the “square.”

Day 2: Escaping the Marrakech Heat – the Ourika Valley in the Atlas Mountains and Anima Gardens

Next, we journeyed towards the Atlas Mountains, about 60km south of Marrakech. The high altitudes, with the top peak at about 4.200m, guarantee enjoyable summer temperatures. The Atlas allows skiing in the winter and hiking all year round. We visited the waterfalls Setti Fatma at an altitude of almost 1.800m, where the daytime temperature refreshed us at 23°C, almost 20° down from what we started to get used to in Marrakech.

The drive to the Atlas from Marrakech passes suburbs with relatively modern, uniform red/rosé painted houses and some hotel complexes. About halfway to our destination, we stopped at Anima Gardens. Anima is a fusion of art and nature conceived by Austrian artist André Heller, providing an engaging experience and supporting the local community with job opportunities. There are sculptures, installations, everything borderline to kitsch. This is how we know Heller and what inspired the Austrian pop band EAV (Erste Allgemeine Verunsicherung) to the song “Es wird Heller.”

Approaching our destination in the Ourika Valley, the road gets narrow and windy – and crowded by the Marrakechis searching for relaxation on a hot Sunday. Mick Jagger owns a house somewhere over there. Our driver arranged for a guide, which was a wise decision. The waterfall pilgrimage was an endless row of families and young Moroccans with ghettoblasters (they still exist over there!) and inappropriate shoes. Our guide took us to the side paths, where we were all alone.

The waterfalls were lovely, but you find many in the Alpes or the Tatra, too. No need to change continents. Really nice was the way down, again via uninhabited side paths, where we could observe monkeys trying to steal from the Fig plantages. Here you are offered a nice view of Berber villages in the valley. I want to go back there and adventure the trek into cut-off Berbére villages and the Atlas mountains’ highest peak, the Toubkal (4.167m). The tour of the Berber villages is suitable for kids as well. If they get tired, the guide will pack them on a donkey!

Back in the valley, we enjoyed a Tajine and a mint tea with our legs in the creek’s water. I could stay there for another month or so.

Day 3: On the run again – the Atlantic city of Essaouira

After two and a half hours of driving through the Sahara sands, we arrived at the seaside city of Essaouira. Again 23°C, 20 down from Marrakech. I was looking for precisely this when (mis)planning the trip. The city combines long sandy beaches with an old city center, city walls, and narrow streets without cars. It is nice to stroll there, visit the art shops, have a coffee in a bar and enjoy a walk on the city walls. For the rest of the day, you can hang out on the beach and watch the kite surfers, ride a Camel or Dromedary, or drive a sand buggy through the dunes. What about swimming? Sure, if you are used to the North Sea or the Bay of Biscay. If you are more on the Mediterranean side, maybe not. After Marrakech in July, I couldn´t imagine that anything, but really anything, I may consider being too cold.

Day 4: Marrakech – The Kasbah and the New City

The Kasbah is located south of the old town. It contains the King`s palace, museums, and narrow streets with markets. This turned out to be my favorite place in Marrakech. A must-see are the Saadian tombs (16th century). Located in a beautiful building and shady backyards, the world cultural heritage site – located within the Kasbah Mosque – was established by Sultan Ahmad al-Mansur. The cemetery gardens offer a lot to pleasure the eye. You may also want to visit other buildings like the Bahia Palace, but the graves were my favorite. For pleasures of the senses, the Kasbah Café offers good food and excellent service. The waiter even knew what the shirts of my favorite football club looked like back in the 1970s. Not really obvious, as this is about VfB Stuttgart. Café Clock offers solid food and numerous live events for hanging out in the evening.

The New City to the West of the Medina manifested Marrakech's more contemporary and Westernized facet, starkly contrasting the traditional old town. It was a rather frustrating experience. The French established this part of Marrakech during the colonial time. It follows the French approach of Parisian Grand boulevards and mid-size buildings. Actually, this part of the city seems to be much more liberal than the old towns, with headscarves being replaced by short skirts and the youth obviously searching for Western-style pleasures and nightlife. Still, the new town of Marrakech cannot match the role models it tries to mimic. Yes, some hip cafés and restaurants, but overall, they are rather run-down and missing the real glimmer.

Embracing Marrakech in summer, really?

While July or August may not be the optimal time to visit Marrakech due to the heat of way over 40°C, the city's magical allure and surrounding attractions make it still a great experience. The balance between the city's bustle, the Atlas mountains' tranquility, and the Essaouira's soothing breeze make a trip to Morocco during summer, including Marrakech, a bit challenging but still exciting. It works fine if you have a good Riad for a long, long siesta.