Feeling Hungary?

It all starts here. In a small central European country, not far away from my hometown. I was privileged as a child to travel across the border and into Hungary and had the amazing opportunity to discover the "exotic" flavors of this land.

My father and I used to go to every festival that our neighbors were hosting, and it was all about food. No matter where you looked, you could see someone stirring in a cauldron, turning massive pork shanks on a barbeque, smoking sausages, and whole duck livers were sizzling on these huge wok-like pans. There were cured meats and long "necklaces" of dried red peppers hanging from the stalls. Hundreds of jars with pickled vegetables and fruits. Handmade fresh bread. You can only imagine.

I wanted everything. I fell in love with food back then, my father introduced me to a new world.

I want to share with you this amazing dish that got stuck in my mind for years and years, called: "Pacalpörkölt", which translates: "pacal" meaning tripe and "pörkölt" meaning stew. A former peasant dish that is now served everywhere across the country, from market stalls to top restaurants.

Tripe is not a very common ingredient, a few other countries around the world use it, but what makes it unique in Hungary, is the manner in which is cooked.

A bit of background about Hungarian cuisine: nose-to-tail eating is very common, and little food is wasted. Main dishes consist of stews, thick soups, fried meats, potatoes, and pickled local vegetables. Hearty, fatty, flavorsome. Simple, humble, and honest food. The kind that your grandmother would cook. Take a bite and you will feel safe and loved.

Going back to my favorite dish. There are a few elements that are strictly going to influence the taste and perfection of this dish.

1. Always use fat to cook with. ( lard, duck, or goose fat) - never oil. It's unacceptable in Hungary. "Flavor's in the fat"

2. Use hungarian paprika. Grown and harvested on the Great Hungarian Plain. Award-winning national spice. Sweet, not smoked.

3. In order to get that smoky flavor into the meat, cook outdoors. On an open fire. Wood only fire. You will need a cauldron.

4. Because of its texture, tripe can be a bit tricky to clean and cook, it needs time. Very chewy if undercooked, it might disappear when overcooked.

It seems like a lot of trouble, but it is worth it ( nowadays you can find precooked and precleaned tripe in supermarkets) or you can always get a flight to Budapest and see for yourself. I have just unveiled the tip of the iceberg. There is a lot more food to discover and also the capital is insanely beautiful.

Want to try making it? Here is the recipe:

1 (kg) precooked tripe

2 large onions

4 Piece garlic cloves

2 (tbsp) sweet paprika powder

2 (tsp) pork fat

1 (tsp) ground black pepper

2 (tsp) salt

2 (tsp) caraway seeds

2 bay leaves

2 (tsp) marjoram

2 peeled chopped tomatoes

chopped parsley

Method:

Melt the fat, add the chopped onions and garlic until golden. Add the pre-cooked tripe and saute. Take off heat and add the paprika, so it doesn't burn. Add the chopped tomatoes and 1/4 cup cold water. Add all your spices: bay leaves, caraway, marjoram, salt, and pepper. Let it cook for 1 h and 3 minutes on medium heat until tripe gets really tender. Add chopped parsley. Serve with boiled potatoes and pickles.

You will be coming back for more!