Wander logo

Bath, England: Dip your toe in

A walk through the city of Bath, led by one of its younger locals.

By Laura SimonsPublished 4 years ago 7 min read
1
(Credit: Somerset Live)

I was on a long-haul flight from Seoul, Korea to London Heathrow and got chatting to two Korean girls next to me who were planning the ultimate trip of England. They'd jotted down all the must-see destinations: London (of course), Oxford and then Bath, the city all three of us were bound for. They asked me what I recommended but it was clear the Korean equivalent of TripAdvisor had already nailed the major tourist attractions: The Roman Baths, The Royal Crescent, Thermae Bath Spa...It is not often you're made to think about what you actually like doing in your hometown. I've lived in Bath my whole life -and I don't hit up the Roman Baths every weekend- so what do I actually enjoy doing there?

What tourists seem to love most about Bath is the old architecture but what I have come to appreciate more over the years is how Bath has become a sandstone embodiment of old and new merging together. For literature lovers, you can escape into Jane Austen's world, literally. If the Jane Austen Centre is too busy, go explore the plethora of independent bookshops that line the city like hidden gems. My personal favourite is the appropriately named Mr B's Emporium of Reading Delights.

Mr B's Emporium of reading delights (Credit: Gramho)

Head inside, up past the antique typewriter on the staircase, and you'll find cosy armchairs and serve-yourself tea to accompany your own literary journey.

If the Jane Austen Centre is still too busy, pop back around between 11-20th September to see the spectacle spill onto the streets during our annual Jane Austen Festival. We all dream of meeting our own Mr Darcy but here you'll meet hundreds of him, as both locals and wanderers from afar flood the streets in 19th century finery.

The Jane Austen Festival Parade (Credit: Bath Chronicle)

Crowds of bobbling bonnets against a golden backdrop of preserved Georgian buildings will make you feel like you've travelled through time.

Back in the present, Bath holds an annual music and literature festival to suit poets and punk rockers alike with a common theme of progression and diversity.

Bath Festival Finale Weekend 2019 (Credit: Bath Festivals)

The festival spans 9 days (15-20th May), including a lively finale weekend featuring a multi-sensory multitude of great music, food, and interactive workshops. There are 120 events on offer: a real voyage of discovery for every individual who attends.

The "Science of Diets" Talk at Bath Festival 2019 (Credit: Bath Festivals)

These festivals are far better events to flock to Bath for than our Christmas Market, which most of us locals actually dread each year...

So whether you're looking to escape to the past or gaze into future, Bath is the place to be. I like to think of it as a city of mystical contrast; antique and avant-garde; serene and spirited. They say the "people make the place" and rest assured, if you take the time to meet a few of us Bathonians (we don't bite) you'll realise that like our hometown, we have no desire to conform to type A or B. In my short life I found hiking up to Briksdal Glacier amidst nothing but nature and standing in the maelstrom of crowds and lights in Times Square equally as enjoyable. If you like a bit of everything, then this local's travel guide is the one for you.

The perfect day, or rather my perfect day, in Bath starts off with a crisp morning walk (preferably with dogs) in the countryside -and no, you don't have to take a day trip- simply head up to the field on Bathwick Hill. If the weather is on your side, you'll witness a gorgeous view of the city below.

View from Bathwick Hill (Credit: Somerset Live)

Sydney Gardens and Lansdown also have great walks and views but if these don't make your morning itinerary, they're ideal picnic spots. Midmorning, the next stop has to be brunch at Rosarios. This independent Italian-owned cafe is my top choice for either a full meal or a coffee-and-a-catchup with friends.

My friend Molly enjoying Rosario's 'salmon and eggs' with homemade potato cakes

The staff know me well in Rosarios, maybe its because Rosario himself is usually there to say ciao or maybe because I have a habit of ordering the smoked salmon cream cheese bagel every time (it is to DIE for). Even if you're having lunch elsewhere, be sure to stop in for a coffee and a Sicilian pastry to complement (my favourite is the pistachio cannoli.)

What comes next? Well, if the sun is out, you'll find the lawn outside the Royal Crescent painted with huge crowds, so finding a patch of green to sunbathe in can be a challenge. However, wild swimming in Warleigh Weir is the secret green oasis beloved by those who know where to find it...

Warleigh Weir (Credit: Bristol Post)

It may be nestled away from the city centre but in addition to the river, the weir boasts a sunbathing field and a lively atmosphere. If you prefer a quieter setting, swim in the morning or early evening.

And what if the weather is bad? The typical British thing to do is to catch the latest blockbuster at the cinema. Luckily, Bath has got you covered there, but at the Little Theatre, your experience will be a little bit different.

The Little Theatre (Credit: Ents24)

What I love about the Little Theatre is the intimate, perfect-on-a-cold-wet-day coziness that larger cinemas just can't match. Tivoli, the newly opened art-house cinema, offers a similar experience but it doesn't have the same history.

Fantastic Mr Fox (2009) (Credit: Reddit)

And film buffs, if you're touring famous filming locations in and around Bath, don't waste an afternoon struggling through the crowds on Pulteney Bridge trying to recreate that scene from Les Miserables, visit the Little Theatre instead. The more observant locals will have noticed that our beloved Little Theatre was immortalised in the village fire scene from Wes Anderson's 2009 animated classic 'Fantastic Mr Fox' (important sidenote: I am a sucker for stop-motion.)

It's time to eat again and the kitschy thing in Bath right now is tapas. Tour guides will recommend it simply because Bath is one of the few small cities with staggering five tapas restaurants to its name (I mean really, who needs that much tapas?) and two of them are easily found in Southgate Shopping Centre. That's not to discourage you, but what you might be noticing as a running theme here is, the best places in Bath are hidden. Yen Sushi is Bath's own independent Kaiten sushi (conveyor belt sushi) restaurant.

Yen Sushi (Credit: TripAdvisor)

You'll find it on Bartlett Street, one of those tiny, cobbled side-streets that most tourists ignore. You can go for lunch but I much prefer dinner. It's open 5:30-10:30 every evening, ideal early birds and night owls. Select what looks tastiest from the belt or be mesmerised by your dexterous chef making sushi right before your eyes. Sometimes if I'm feeling adventurous I'll ask the chef to make me an off-menu dish (now I love eel) and its in these moments I realise that what makes this restaurant unique is not the futuristic conveyor belt, but rather a team of staff who wholeheartedly love what they do. Something about sushi served with a story and a smile leaves you feeling like you're more than just a table number. It's this personalised experience, along with the fresh flavours and cheap prices (I'm on a student budget) that keeps bringing me back time and time again.

If you're after something more traditional, you simply can't beat pub grub. Being the trademark of UK culture, pubs are absolutely everywhere so my advice wherever you are in the UK is to ask the locals what their regular spot is (a good pub is like a good hairdresser, once you find one you're unlikely to go elsewhere). The two jewels in Bath's crown has to be the Marlborough Tavern and the Hare and Hounds.

The Marlborough Tavern (Credit: Marlborough Tavern)

The Hare and Hounds (Credit: Hare and Hounds)

What you may have noticed in the photos above, is that the Marlborough Tavern is the perfect cozy escape from the cold, while the Hare and Hounds is the ideal wind down on a summery day. However, both can guarantee good-quality food, large portion sizes and -because we're in Bath- some Georgian-like elegancy and flair, just take a look below.

Food at the Marlborough Tavern (Credit: Marlborough Tavern)

Food at the Hare and Hounds (Credit: Hare and Hounds)

Make sure you take some time to nurse your food belly because the day is not over yet. What Bath lacks in a decent nightclub scene, it makes up for in dozens of fun, quirky bars that'll still have you dancing the night away. For some cheap post-dinner bevvies' and simple good vibes there's Adventure Cafe, the Cork (feat. karaoke and game nights), The Pig & Fiddle AND Canon.

The Cork (Credit: The Cork)

I was planning on being more selective but honestly, I'd be remiss if I didn't give each of these places a mention. You really do have your pick of the litter on this one.

Once the night begins to pick up, head somewhere you make the atmosphere, and nothing unites a room of strangers better than live music. To discover the latest of Bath's talent or if you're daring enough for the open mic, try Belushi's or The Bell. If higher profile acts are more your style, go for Moles and Komedia - but get your tickets in advance. If you're an old soul and prefer something a bit more jazzy, then you'll fit right in at Circo. Again, I can't really pick a no. 1 favourite out of these because it all depends on my mood. Conveniently, if you're in one of these bars you're only a short walk away from another so go with the flow and follow your feeling.

Jazz ensemble in Circo (Credit: Circo Bar)

As I've highlighted so far, the best way to experience Bath is to fall in love with the contrasts. If you're choosing a cool, dark hole-in-the-wall like Circo, follow it up with the complete opposite!

Whether you're heading home at midnight or at dawn, make no mistake, grab a tiki cocktail at the Common Room.

Cocktails at the Common Room (Credit: Instagram @commonroombath)

This is perhaps the perfect place to end my story, as the Common Room encapsulates what I love most about my hometown: a unique establishment coloured with vivacious spirit and music (the dance floor is practically a necessity) with corners to relax and be intimate with the ones you love most and the best part? It's run by locals who welcome their newcomers just like they do their regulars.

Manager David "Hawaiian Dave" Penson (Credit: Instagram @commonroombath)

I hope my guide to Bath has enticed you a step further than its beautiful landscape and that I've shown you how my city is a place to not only indulge in your familiarities but to enrich your curiosities as well. See you soon!

guide
1

About the Creator

Laura Simons

21 | pen to the paper and pedal to the metal

Reader insights

Be the first to share your insights about this piece.

How does it work?

Add your insights

Comments

There are no comments for this story

Be the first to respond and start the conversation.

Sign in to comment

    Find us on social media

    Miscellaneous links

    • Explore
    • Contact
    • Privacy Policy
    • Terms of Use
    • Support

    © 2024 Creatd, Inc. All Rights Reserved.