PARMIGIANI FLEURIER TONDA PF MICRO-ROTOR

The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor is just one of four new models produced by the Swiss brand, designed for today’s discerning horophile. Each watch is dressed in fine attire with textures, lines and colours collaborating to confer a lasting joy. Recently, Angus Davies grasped the opportunity to get ‘hands-on’ with this latest model, a timepiece conceived with significant input of brand CEO, Guido Terreni.

Guido Terreni was appointed the CEO of Parmigiani Fleurier in January 2021. Shortly after his arrival, he began in earnest developing a new collection of models. In August 2021, at Geneva Watch Days, he unveiled the new Tonda PF collection. Recently, I interviewed Mr Terreni and it soon became apparent that he, along with his team, expended much time and energy honing the design and specification of each new variant.

The collection comprises four core models, namely the Tonda PF Micro-Rotor, PF Chronograph, PF Annual Calendar and, the pièce de resistance, the Tonda PF Split Seconds Chronograph 25 years anniversary edition. With the exception of the latter model, all members of the Tonda PF collection are available in steel, with a platinum hand-knurled bezel, or 18-carat rose gold.

Examining the Tonda PF collection and closely appraising the composition of each variant, it is clear that Mr Terreni has imbued every reference with his own notion of style. Interestingly, when I spoke to Mr Terreni, a dapper gentleman of Swiss-Italian origin, I couldn’t fail to notice the defined cut of his suit jacket and the pristine appearance of his Italian silk tie. Therefore, it came as no surprise to hear the industry veteran talk of a ‘mature, sartorial approach to watchmaking’. He explained that the Tonda PF models pay close attention to ‘texture, form and detail’, suddenly the parallels between fine tailoring and watchmaking became clear.

As an avid fan of the Swiss Maison and someone who has enjoyed wearing many of its exquisite timepieces, I am very familiar with its models. They have always been blessed with beautiful proportions, sumptuous details and a high quotient of mechanical integrity.

However, while the Tonda PF collection upholds the aforementioned characteristics, each reference is also blessed with a youthful complexion. These new models are clearly intended to seduce a younger audience and introduce them to the intoxicating charms of Haute Horlogerie. Mr Terreni freely admits that the new collection is intended for clients who appreciate subtle details, that are ‘savvy’ and possess a ‘strong sense of style and refinement’.

Having concluded our interview and heard Mr Terreni itemise the many refined details that Tonda PF ownership grants, I wondered when I would have the opportunity to get ‘hands-on’ with the new models and appraise each watch at close quarters. Thankfully, I did not need to wait too long.

The dial

In this instance, I have chosen to focus on the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor. As previously mentioned, the watch is available in a choice of steel, with a platinum hand-knurled bezel, or 18-carat rose gold. Both models feature a grey dial, enlivened with Grain d’Orge guilloché. This latter motif is very traditional, however, the Maison has chosen to depict the pattern in diminutive form. The resultant texture of the surface is softly spoken and, when viewed from some angles, barely visible to the naked eye. In some respects, it sets the tone for the whole of the watch. Indeed, where some watch designs incorporate very conspicuous design elements, the styling of Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor embodies discreet elegance.

This sense of restraint extends to the branding of the watch. Usually, watch dials are dominated by a brand’s nomen. In fact, it has become the accepted norm, few horophiles ever questioning excessive text. However, when I was growing up, self-promotion was frowned upon by parents and teachers alike. Indeed, it was considered unbecoming. The Tonda PF Micro-Rotor downplays the notion of unseemly branding. Good taste is the order of the day. The only concession to modern-day marketing relates to the brand’s initials, positioned within a gleaming oval frame.

To be honest, when I first saw an image of the Tonda PF Micro-Rotor I thought it looked a bit plain. However, this is a watch that creeps up and beguiles you with its pulchritudinous looks. Having seen the watch up close and personal, I can attest, it is exquisite.

¬¬Consistent with several other models from the Manufacture, the hour and minute hands are Delta-shaped, albeit in this instance they are also skeletonised. On one hand, the open sections reveal more of the guilloché motif and yet the hands convey the time clearly. Put simply, the Tonda PF Micro-Rotor demonstrates that style and functionality can happily co-exist.

Depending on the case material, the indexes are either rhodium-plated or 18-carat rose gold. They fulfil their role but without overwhelming the overall appearance of the dial. A minuterie, encircles the central guilloché section and is presented on a lower level. Parmigiani Fleurier has endued this model with a myriad of details, some of which are only discovered with prolonged examination.

A date indication is positioned at the base of the dial. White numerals sit atop a grey disc, matching the main dial, thereby, upholding horological etiquette.

The case

As previously stated, the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor is available in two options, steel or 18-carat rose gold. Both models share the same design and dimensions. Measuring 40mm in diameter, the scale of the watch will suit a large cross-section of would-be wearers. Moreover, the watch is not marketed as a ‘men’s model’, a shrewd decision on the part of the Maison. I found the watch suited my wrist, but it would equally befit a female wearer.

I would liken the Tonda PF Micro-Rotor to a perfectly fitting garment or a beloved pair of shoes. When the watch touches the body it feels like a second skin. Indeed, its surfaces are optimally shaped and finished, conferring a sublime ergonomic relationship between the watch and its wearer. In addition, the modest height of the watch head, just 7.8mm contributes to the model’s exalted levels of wearer comfort and ensures the watch does not protrude unduly from the wrist.

The design of this timepiece is unlikely to be popular with many of the Swiss-firm’s artisans. Many of the design elements are complicated and, by default, their manufacture will be protracted and costly. For example, the lachrymose-themed lugs feature a bevelled edge that is barely visible at one end and gradually becomes wider nearer the other end. It is clear that this detail will take an inordinate amount of time and require absolute concentration.

Parmigiani Fleurier has juxtaposed polished and brushed surfaces throughout, another aspect that requires much time and patience on the part of the company’s employees.

Sometimes metal bracelets can appear a tad gauche, however, consistent with the refined make-up of the Tonda PF Micro-Rotor, the Maison has tempered the exuberance of the polished sections of the bracelet by positioning brushed surfaces adjacent. The resultant appearance of the bracelet exudes an air of sumptuousness whilst still remaining tasteful.

Both the steel and gold versions of the Tonda PF Micro-Rotor are fitted with a hand-knurled bezel. Unusually, the steel variant is equipped with a platinum 950 bezel. Clearly, the watch brand could have equipped the watch with a steel bezel and saved a few precious Swiss francs, but Mr Terreni wanted to create a collection of watches, rich in details. To the casual observer the steel and platinum surfaces may appear the same. However, platinum appears whiter than steel. Moreover, when touching the surfaces, the platinum exhibits a soft feel, akin to silk.

The movement

At the heart of every Parmigiani Fleurier is a magnificent mechanical movement, in this instance, visible via an exhibition caseback. The company’s origins are entwined with the restoration of antique automata, clocks and watches. Michel Parmigiani, the founder of the eponymous brand, has always chosen materials that confer longevity and facilitate restoration by a competent watchmaker in ‘150 years time’. Moreover, he has always viewed finissage as not merely superficial embellishment of movement components but also a means of enhancing corrosion resistance. This was evident when the firm was founded in 1996 and it remains the case today.

The Tonda PF Micro-Rotor is equipped with the Calibre PF703, a self-winding movement featuring a platinum micro-rotor. Few brands have mastered the making of micro-rotors, but Parmigiani Fleurier has possessed this know-how for a number of years. Many automatic watches have a large oscillating weight that occupies almost 50% of the movement’s upper surface area. The rotor is made from dense material, sometimes gold or tungsten. The bulk of the mass is often biased to the periphery of the rotor in order to create sufficient momentum to energise the mainspring.

A micro-rotor is much smaller than a regular rotor, hence in order for it to generate sufficient inertia, it needs to be as dense as possible. Furthermore, the automatic train has to be very efficient at harnessing energy.

The Calibre PF703 features a platinum micro-rotor, a material that helps provide the required inertia. The upper surface of the micro-rotor is embellished with Grain d’Orge a popular form of guilloché decoration, similar to that featured on the dial, albeit in larger form.

At this juncture, the inquiring mind may wonder why a micro-rotor has been selected in preference to a regular rotor. Firstly, a full-size rotor sits atop the movement, increasing the calibre’s overall depth, whereas a micro-rotor sits in a circular recess, set within the movement. The platinum micro-rotor sits flush with the neighbouring bridges and the resultant depth of the movement is just 3mm, contributing to the watch’s slender profile of just 7.8mm.

Another benefit of using a micro-rotor is that it indulges the wearer with superior views of the finishing. Indeed, there is nothing more frustrating than owning an exemplar of Haute Horlogerie only for the view of finely decorated components being obscured by a full-size rotor. In fact, if you are a horological voyeur who requires a self-winding movement, the micro-rotor provides the perfect solution.

In terms of finishing, the mainplate of the Calibre PF703 is adorned with perlage, a detail that can be seen adjacent the micro-rotor. The bridges are embellished with straight Côtes de Genève motif. The edges of the bridges are beautifully bevelled and gleam resplendently.

Most watches are equipped with an index-regulated balance. With this latter system the hairspring passes between two curb pins mounted on a ‘raquette’. When the raquette is moved towards or away from the stud, the effective length of the hairspring changes, making the watch run faster or slower.

However, the Calibre PF703 is fitted with a free sprung balance which means the effective length of the hairspring never changes. The rate is adjusted by rotating four masselottes, positioned on the spokes of the balance wheel which, in turn, alter the moment of inertia. Consistent with the Maison’s fastidious attention to detail, the masselottes are placed in-board thereby producing less air turbulence which again enhances precision. Furthermore, a free sprung balance is less susceptible to positional errors and grants superior rate stability.

The balance has a frequency of 21,600 Vph (3Hz) and the movement contains 29 jewels. Assuming the mainspring is fully wound, the watch will run autonomously for 48 hours.