BIANCHET TOURBILLON B1.618 OPENWORK

Introduction

Back in 2017, Rodolfo Festa Bianchet and his wife Emmanuelle took the bold and courageous step to launch their own watch brand. Emmanuelle was a respected artist and sculptor, whilst Rodolfo had built a successful career in the world of Fintech. However, neither individual had any knowledge of running a watch brand. It was the lucrative sale of Rodolfo’s Forex trading platform, ‘Trade Interceptor’ which enabled the couple to capitalise on their newfound freedom and immerse themselves into a shared passion for luxury timepieces.

By 2019, Bianchet had developed an impressive prototype, which the brand used as a barometer to test the market’s appetite for its design ethos. This first venture, known as the G5000, offered avant-garde sports styling and high impact resistance (hence the name). It paired an open-worked dial with a tourbillon in a beautifully finished tonneau case. Generating enough intrigue and positivity, the G5000 was a springboard for Bianchet to create their inaugural launch timepiece. The B1.618, kept the majority of design cues but included refinements to the movement design and impact resistance. With avant-garde sports styling and the ability to withstand an impact of 6000G, the design of B1.618 inevitably drew comparisons with the work of Richard Mille, an enviable compliment considering Bianchet’s tender years.

It is, however, the inspiration behind the proportions of the tonneau case and the B1.618’s skeletonised movement that adds an additional level of intrigue. Now, two new contrasting iterations of the Tourbillon B1.618 Openwork are presented, one in Grade 5 Titanium and the other in an ultra-lightweight carbon case.

The case

To understand the case proportions, it is necessary to understand the work of Italian mathematician Leonardo Pisano Bogollo, better known as ‘Fibonacci.’ He is widely, though perhaps generously, credited for the Fibonacci number sequence, in which each number is the sum of the two previous numbers e.g. 0, 1, 1, 2, 3, 5, 8, 13, 21, 34 and so on.

When graphically presented, by tiling together squares with sizes increasing in correlation with the Fibonacci sequence, it is possible to produce the ‘Golden Ratio’. This is usually shown as a decimal, approximately 1.618, and it is also referred to by the Greek letter Phi ‘Φ’. Whilst not exact, due to Phi being an irrational number, the higher one goes in the sequence, the closer the number gets to exactly 1.618.

Often referred to as the ‘Divine Proportion’, the Golden Ratio has forever been evident in the natural world and has also been employed by mankind across many cultures over the centuries. From proportions in Greek architecture, the masterful artwork of da Vinci and classical composers such as Beethoven and Debussy, protagonists have employed the Golden Ratio to deliver harmonious equilibrium.

Bianchet is fascinated by the Golden Ratio and is even said to have employed it when making financial predictions, so it is no surprise that the proportions of the brand’s cases are designed to reflect this beautiful phenomenon. Two distinct finishes of the curved tonneau-shaped cases are offered. Firstly, a lightweight (just 54 grams) Grade 5 titanium version contrasts highly polished and fine satin-brushed surfaces. The addition of a thin red vulcanised rubber strip, running around the case, heightens the overall sense of sportiness.

The second ownership option is even lighter, weighing in at 33 grams. It is housed in a carbon fibre and titanium powder composite case. This material combination creates a pattern, alternating between shiny and matte, providing each piece with its own unique moiré effect. Blue rubber adds a tasteful dose of colour to the composition. Certainly, of the two case options, the latter reference looks sportier.

The Bianchet Tourbillon B1.618 Openwork measures 43mm by 50mm, while the height of the case is 13mm. A titanium crown featuring an engraved Bianchet ‘B’ is flanked by two pronounced crown guards. The crown and associated guards contribute to the model’s notable wrist presence. Naturally, glare-proof sapphire glass features to the front and rear, affording perfect views of the fascinating B1.618 movement within.

The dial and movement.

The hand-wound B1.618 movement boasts a highly impressive specification and, being openworked, it lays all its secrets bare. Throughout the calibre, form is matched by function. The curved, lightweight titanium bridges are hand finished and skeletonised, enhancing their appearance while mitigating their weight. The deep case exhibits a wonderful three-dimensional design. Indeed, the various arches and circles subscribe to Fibonacci derived proportions and deliver a harmonious sense of order.

Beating at a relaxed 3Hz, the movement is regulated by a 60-second tourbillon with a variable inertia balance. With an accuracy of -2 to +6 seconds a day, the Calibre B1.618, once fully wound, will run autonomously for 105 hours.

The Bianchet Tourbillon B1.618 Openwork has a shock resistance of up to 6000G, courtesy of the materials used and its sturdy construction. Therefore, owners can relax, safe in the knowledge that their Bianchet watch will cope with the extreme shocks typical of tennis, golf and polo, where excessive forces can adversely affect the regulating organ.

Seconds are indicated by a colour coded needle-shaped hand sitting neatly above the tourbillon cage. In contrast, the baton-shaped hour and minute hands have received a generous helping of lume and are white-toned on the titanium model and blue on the carbon fibre edition.

The strap

Consistent with the coloured rubber detail on the cases, each watch is secured with a band of natural vulcanised rubber, executed in red/black or blue/black. The straps are broad and tactile, in keeping with the watch’s masculine appearance, and fit perfectly around the wrist by being recessed into the case. This creates a near-seamless modern look, perfectly complementing the watch’s contemporary identity. A folding clasp and titanium pin buckle complete the look and ensure the watch is more than fit for its intended purpose.

Closing thoughts

A new brand faces many challenges if it is to compete with watchmaking’s old guard. Bianchet has already proven that it is very capable of producing watches of the highest quality. In fact, the brand displays much confidence, belying its comparative youth.

The key to attracting customers is to have a strong marketing story behind each watch, and the B1.618 certainly ticks this box. The Golden Ratio’s influence on design is tried and tested having been used by a number of prestigious brands previously, including the case of the JLC Reverso and several exquisite dials produced by Parmigiani Fleurier.

Bianchet is clearly ambitious and, based on my observations, it has the necessary expertise to compete within the upper echelons of the watch industry. Indeed, with the advent of these recent additions to the Bianchet Tourbillon B1.618 Openwork series, the Swiss brand is on the right path to success.