The Dirty Truth Behind Your Favorite Pair of Jeans

Most of us can't imagine opening our closets and not finding a pair of blue jeans. They come in various styles - skinny hipster, boot cuts, dad jeans - and no judgment. However, there's one common factor in all our jeans: the indigo dye. Sadly, the dye used today is far from clean.

Considering the staggering number of jeans produced annually, over 70,000 tons of indigo are utilized to achieve that iconic blue hue. Yet, the process takes its toll. However, innovators are reimagining how indigo dye is made, with the hope of creating cleaner jeans in the future. I'm even wearing a pair right now. (Tammy chuckles) - [Tammy] That's right.

Jeans are truly iconic; they belong in every closet. Hence, they serve as an excellent case study for the reinvention of production processes. Each year, billions of jeans are manufactured, and the secret to their classic faded look lies in the indigo dye. As you wear jeans, the dye naturally fades, creating a beautiful effect. That's precisely why indigo dye is irreplaceable.

There are two types of indigo dye: natural and synthetic. Humans have used the natural dye derived from Indigofera plants for thousands of years. However, in 1897, German chemists invented synthetic indigo dye for large-scale production. These days, synthetic indigo is used in nearly all jeans. Chemically, it is identical to its plant-based counterpart.

While the end product remains the same, the production process of synthetic indigo dye involves a dangerous mix of fossil fuels and toxic substances like formaldehyde, hydrogen cyanide, aniline, and sodium amide. The problem arises when we consider the billions and billions of jeans dyed using synthetic indigo dye. Let's explore the dyeing process. (calming music)

The dyeing process involves various chemicals, including the indigo dye itself and additives that facilitate its dissolution in water. For instance, soda ash and sodium hydrosulfite are commonly used additives. However, these substances can pose a risk to textile factory workers, especially when proper safety measures are lacking. Exposure to such chemicals has been linked to respiratory issues, skin problems, and even cancer in textile workers.

Though I'm not in a textile factory, it's always better to be safe than sorry, especially considering the windy environment. After a few rounds of dyeing, the fabric needs to be rinsed with clean water to remove all the chemicals. However, not all jeans are created equal, and some finished products may still contain contaminants like formaldehyde and aniline. Once the dyeing is complete, all the waste is disposed of down the drain.

A small five-gallon bucket like this may seem harmless, but imagine the massive amount of textile dyes, up to 280,000 tons, that end up as wastewater each year, with improper disposal being a common issue in unregulated or poorly regulated areas.

In these locations, you can witness rivers turning black from the effluence discharged by textile factories. The contaminated wastewater harms aquatic ecosystems, pollutes drinking water, and even affects nearby food sources. Many denim laundries and brands are eager for innovation that moves away from synthetic indigo dye.

Fortunately, it's not all bad news. Numerous initiatives aim to improve the entire dyeingprocess, from reducing water usage to adopting safer finishing techniques. One such company leading the charge is Huue, which produces indigo dye from sugar instead of fossil fuels. Their process begins by extracting the DNA for indigo compounds from an indigo plant and inserting it into microbes. These specially engineered microbes then produce the desired indigo molecules. Through careful cultivation and purification, Huue ensures the final dye meets the standards expected of synthetic indigo.

Although Huue is still in the research and development phase, they're not the only ones tackling this problem. DyStar, a prominent producer of synthetic indigo, has also made efforts to create safer and easier-to-clean dye. Moreover, other innovations have resulted in indigo free of specific contaminants like aniline. While Huue focuses primarily on indigo, their ultimate goal extends beyond that, aiming to transform the fashion industry's entire dyeing process, including the thousands of metric tons of dyes used in various sectors.

Indigo is just one piece of the enormous supply chain responsible for producing billions of jeans annually. This industry remains largely hidden from consumers' eyes. Just as we pay attention to the ingredients in our food, it's essential to increase awareness about the materials that go into our clothes. Companies, regulators, and legislators all have a role to play in making the fashion supply chain more transparent and reducing the use of hazardous chemicals.

However, it doesn't mean you have to rush and buy the cleanest, most sustainable pair of jeans available. Denim is a remarkable product, and it can embody slow fashion. If you value your jeans, you can wear them for years to come. By buying fewer jeans, washing them less frequently, and donating them when you're done, we can contribute to sustainability while waiting for advancements in denim technology to revolutionize the industry.