Mezcal's Dilemma: Tradition, Globalization, and the Battle for Authenticity

From farmers safeguarding bananas against a deadly fungus to a family in Mexico cultivating Agave for Mezcal, we explore global innovations in preserving food species. In Santa Katarina Minas, the G family has crafted Mezcal since 1898. Unlike their ancestors, they grow Agave from seeds, opting for a slower method to enhance resistance to diseases. The labor-intensive process involves harvesting, roasting Agave hearts in an ancestral oven, and fermenting them for a week.

Moving to San Bazar Guava, Don Goyo's distillery produces 6,000 liters of Mezcal annually. The cooked Agave hearts are crushed using a horse-driven stone, fermented, and distilled. The distillation process is a meticulous art, producing distinct flavors in each jug, including the head, body, tail, and acidic residue. The rise of Mezcal's popularity, especially in the US, led to a 400% increase in Mexican production by 2020.

To standardize the industry, the Mexican Government established regulations in 1994, requiring Mezcal to be made from 100% Agave in specific states. However, certification now poses challenges, with costs ranging from $375 to $2,500 and concerns about the impact on traditional methods. In 2020, corruption allegations against the certifying organization raised further doubts. Despite regulations, the influx of international companies and celebrity-owned brands has transformed Mezcal from a traditional, locally crafted elixir into a globally recognized spirit, leaving traditional producers with a shrinking share of the market.

This global demand has intensified competition, but a major concern arises as none of the popular Mezcal brands are Mexican-owned. Del Maguey is owned by a French company, Casamigos by a British one, and El Silencio by a New York-based firm. Even celebrities like George Clooney, Adam Levine, and Breaking Bad stars have entered the market by repackaging and reselling Mezcal from Mexican producers.

The Denomination of Origin (DO) rules, initially intended to safeguard traditional processes, have faced criticism. The certification process, though designed to ensure quality, has become a financial burden for small producers like Don Goyo. The difficulty in maintaining consistent alcohol and methanol content in traditional distilling has prompted some larger producers to adopt modern equipment, threatening the authenticity of the craft.

In 2021, a pivotal moment occurred when traditional producer Graciella and her family chose to stop certifying their brand, prioritizing family tradition over regulation. This decision was fueled by the DO's insistence on changing name standards for Agave, disregarding generations of indigenous use of native words for the plant.

The evolving landscape, with international companies dominating the market and challenges within the certification process, raises questions about the future of Mezcal's authenticity and the preservation of traditional practices amidst a blooming global industry.

The challenges continue as the DO's protection has inadvertently opened doors for international companies to capitalize on Mezcal's popularity. While American companies cannot produce Mezcal in the US, they exploit the system by purchasing large quantities from Mexican producers, rebranding, and reselling at a higher price. This commercial strategy has further marginalized traditional producers, leaving them with a diminishing share of their own craft.

The controversy surrounding the DO intensified in 2020 when allegations of corruption against the certifying organization came to light, resulting in a significant fine. The incident highlighted a broader issue of favoritism towards big Mezcal companies over smaller ones, undermining the original purpose of the DO – to protect and preserve traditional methods.

In response to these challenges, some traditional producers face a dilemma: conform to the evolving standards set by the DO or prioritize their unique heritage and distillation processes. The tension between tradition and regulation is palpable, with the fear that adherence to stringent standards might erode the cultural authenticity that defines Mezcal.

As Mezcal continues to gain global recognition, the industry stands at a crossroads, grappling with issues of ownership, certification, and cultural preservation. The journey from a local, artisanal elixir to a global commodity raises profound questions about the future path of Mezcal and its place in the evolving landscape of spirits worldwide.