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The taste of nostalgia


By SondJamPublished 9 months ago 6 min read

The grapefruit in my hometown is a bit famous outside. People ask where the old home, I said Changshan, people will "Oh" a - "Changshan grapefruit. In this way, it seems that the most famous in the old home is this grapefruit. But many people first encounter this fruit, a bite down, ah, so sour. And then a bite, ah, so bitter - most likely, he does not know much about grapefruit. After winter, folks pick grapefruit, but this is not the best time to enjoy it. You have to be patient, pick it, put it away quietly, and wait slowly. As time passes, the magic of time works inside the fruit, and as the day gets colder, the fruit's ingredients slowly transform, with less acid concentration and more sweet concentration, the fruit becomes increasingly delicious. Around New Year's Day is very good. To be able to hold back a little more, to the Spring Festival, it will be even better, eaten with a honey-like sweetness.

The taste of grapefruit, and other grapefruit is not the same, other grapefruit sweet is a sweet, this grapefruit sweet in a bit of bitterness. Some people are not used to this bitterness. In fact, it is precisely the bitterness of these, its taste, it is also particularly full and rich. There are some people, because of the bitterness of these Xu, rejected the grapefruit, not deep contact, not without regret. For example, in the past, many people can not accept snail powder, think snail powder stink wow, than stinky tofu, stinky fish are stinky, but now, snail powder red north and south of the river, stinky people can not stop loving, can not stop. A lot of things, accept up, to have a process.

Speaking of rice noodles, I once went to Zhejiang Literature and Art Publishing House to talk to Qiu Jianguo, the deputy editor-in-chief, and Mr. Qiu gave me a book, "A bowl of rice noodles of nostalgia". Mr. Qiu is from Nancheng County, Jiangxi Province, and Nancheng is famous for its rice noodles. I don't know which day he had a flash of light and launched a global essay on "A Bowl of Nostalgia for Rice Noodles" in his WeChat public number, and received enthusiastic feedback from folks all over the world, telling stories about their lives and rice noodles. Some people commented on this matter, saying, "Qiu Jianguo, a talented man from Linchuan, raised his arms and shouted, and the respondents gathered, waving his sleeves and moving the wind in all directions. The accumulation of more, a book was published. This is very interesting when you think about it. Each person's story in the book, on the surface is a bowl of rice noodles, in fact, to put it in a larger way, is a cultural nostalgia of all oral action. The book also connects the people of Nancheng who are scattered in all corners of the earth in the form of rice noodles - who, as long as they are Nancheng people, does not have a bowl of rice noodles in their memory?

My ancestors, four generations ago, are said to have moved to Zhejiang from Nanfeng, Jiangxi Province, and settled in Changshan, so my "native language" is still Nanfeng, Jiangxi Province. I don't know if it has anything to do with the migration, but in Changshan, rice noodles, which we call "vermicelli" - are also a very popular delicacy. Every time I come back to Changshan from Hangzhou, I like to eat a bowl of hot and spicy fried vermicelli. And while eating, I sweat a lot. I can't eat spicy food now, and I sweat every time I eat it, but Changshan people are mostly spicy, and I'm afraid this taste spectrum is also deeply related to Jiangxi. Changshan's fried vermicelli is, in a way, more smoky than Changshan's huhuo, and is also a carrier of nostalgia. If you go around the night stalls in the county, you will find that any of them will have fried dried noodles, and there are subtle differences in the taste of any of them. The vermicelli in Changshan is close to the style of rice noodles in Guangxi and Jiangxi, which are thick lines, unlike the vermicelli in Wenzhou, which is said to be "vermicelli" but is actually vermicelli, as thin as hair. These two kinds of dried vermicelli are not one kind of thing.

People say food, often talk about an authentic or not. Whether it is the taste of home or not, you can tell by one bite. If you are in a distant country, a bite of the taste of home, it is inevitable that people are full of emotions. I am in Hangzhou, quite a collection of a few old family restaurants, such as in which street which lane, from time to time, will go to patronize, but also know which a few fried dried noodles, the most hometown taste.

The other day, I suddenly remembered that the grapefruit had been picked, so I asked my friend back home to send me some. Friends said, this time of the grapefruit has not yet to the best taste, at this time can think of grapefruit, must be the old family, old diners. Grapefruit is a niche fruit, the leadership of the old home after another to promote this industry. In fact, the production of grapefruit, depending on the sky to eat, last winter freeze, resulting in a significant reduction in grapefruit production this year, the price is raised, up to an average price of four or five yuan a kilogram. In fact, I would say, as a good fruit, the price of grapefruit is not high, up a little does not hurt, I would also like to grow grapefruit farmers in my hometown can increase a little income to achieve common prosperity.

The old diners are demanding, the grapefruit in the same county, the taste is different in the east and west. Where the climate is good, moisture is sufficient, where the soil is unique, the old diners have a spectrum in mind. Is a straight tree, or grafted fruit, when to eat large fruit, when to eat small fruit, the old diners also know. For old diners, the bitterness of grapefruit, but also good things, with a good throat, the actual function of the respiratory tract, grapefruit clear bitter taste, eat often to prevent colds. I chew it with the white inner flesh.

On weekends, I eat grapefruit while reading Mr. Qiu's book of rice noodles, which evokes the same nostalgic thoughts. The book's title is inscribed to Mr. Rao Pingru, the author of Pingru Meitang. Mr. Rao was also a native of Nancheng, Jiangxi, and he wrote the rice noodle article at the beginning of the book. Unfortunately, Mr. Rao has passed away last year.


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