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Summiting Mt. Kilimanjaro

My Journal

By Chriss WambuaPublished 2 years ago 14 min read
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Introduction

October 17th 2000 I was born weighing in at six pounds with more complications than a complicated thing. I am one of those that fought to come into this life, and it has been that way ever since.

My final year of high school came by pretty fast. Time tends to do that sometimes; speed things up when you're not watching. I knew I'd be moving out of the country right after graduating to begin the next phase so when I heard about the trip I knew I couldn't miss it.

Getting in shape for a mountain trek is never as fun as it sounds. It becomes even less fun - bet you didn't think that could happen - when the person in charge of fitness is your rugby coach. Needless to say, I did not attend a majority of the fitness sessions that were set up for our benefit and joined the group that had gone on strike. There goes mistake number one. The rules were simple, each person was to carry their own bag that is to weigh no more than 20kg, a sleeping mat attached, sunscreen and some sunglasses. No phones allowed, and it goes without saying; no alcohol. It was a 17 man job, 11 students, 3 teachers and 2 porters. A five day trip in total, four going up and one going down. Sounds simple.

The Journey

Day 1, 7:30am making our way off campus. All the other students cheered which quickly faded once they realized their inevitable fate which was to be back in class when the bell rang. I bid my friends goodbye, overheard a few of them betting against my success on climbing the mountain due to my lack of fitness as well as severe asthma condition. Excitement burst out from the open windows and into the streets as we made our way to the National Park where the journey was to begin. Mount Kilimanjaro is the tallest standing mountain in Africa and the second tallest mountain in the world peaking at 5,895 meters which roughly converts to 19,337 feet. Once we had unloaded the bus and were through the park gates we were flooded with fact boards and information on records which were set long before us. Conversations grew loud as we walked through the thick forest, stopping occasionally for a drink of water and to tie my shoelaces. The pace was reasonable, we weren't a huge group but we had a schedule to work with so every step counted. The rule with these sort of trips is that the slowest person in the group is asked to lead the line so that we move at their pace. This is more a safety precaution than anything else, assuring that the group does not split up. We set up camp at around 5 noon, and had an early dinner.

Day 2, I was woken at 6am for breakfast so that we could begin our walk by 7:30am. On the menu we had boiled eggs for breakfast, a bag of mixed nuts and raisins, and a fruit bar. If you had any prior experience with these trips you would know not to eat the boiled egg in the morning. I trade mine for a fruit bar and a fist of nuts. We were well aware that there was a time schedule which we had to meet and so snack breaks were set to be 15 minutes. For lunch everyone grabbed a piece of chicken wrapped in some foil, more boiled eggs were passed around, a table was set with buns and all that you need to make a sandwich, and water tanks to refill our bottles. We crossed bridges that went over rivers and balanced ourselves across rocks leaning over steep cliffs. I was actually amazed that the school allowed such a trip, I constantly found myself one step away from a fatal fall that would take me hundreds of feet down and the sad part would be knowing that nobody would be able to come and retrieve me or my belongings. Daylight faded and night came by quickly. The higher we get the colder it gets, the less oxygen there is. Oxygen is essential when climbing a mountain, this is something we were about to learn.

Day 3, Now picking up altitude. Our trip leader began to hand out acetazolamide tablets; this is for the purpose of avoiding symptoms of altitude sickness which is the result of climbing too fast. I personally don't believe in them, had this theory on placebo pills but that topic was not taken too well by the group leaders so I kept my theories to myself and those that were keen on the subject. You learn that conversation helps you pass time a lot faster than silence. It was far too cold at the stage we had reached so pitching a tent was out of the question, instead, we bunked in cottage-like rooms in three’s. It was a good housing situation, I was bunked with my rugby coach Ju and the only one of my classmates that was on the trip, Meeq. Diner was a thick soup with toast on the side, porridge was also an option. I decided to step outside and watch the stars. My stargazing adventure was cut short by howls from the cliff across me. A coyote made itself present for a few moments but was gone by the time I'd called Meeq out to come see. Apparently the mountain is full of animals, elephants being the most sighted. Everyone made their way back to their bunks. Clinking of pots being washed by porters. Loud chatter from students brushing their teeth and gargling mouthwash. Doors slamming shut. Lights out, apparently tomorrow is going to be a difficult walk through what they called the desert, knowing we'd be needing all the rest we could get. I unlocked my phone for the first time since the trip started. Look at my screen, "I life you more", close my eyes and sleep.

Day 4, Awoken by what seems to be an exchange of words with great potential of escalation between Ju and Meza, a student that was in the grade above me. I step outside and wash my face, brush my teeth. Head back in to change my clothes, layer up. Pick up my plate and a mug to head over to the communal dining room. I passed the two, who were dishing insults at each other. Meza's tearing up saying that he can no longer keep on going. Explaining that he's been getting sick all through the night and has a severe headache and would like to go down immediately. When a student can no longer keep going up due to whatever reason they are escorted back down and to school by a teacher. The teacher that was required to take him down in this case was leaving the school as well, meaning this was his last month in the country and he wasn't quite ready to give up that experience over the ill fallen student let alone the money he paid to be on the trip; hence the exchange of words I woke up to. The other teacher in consideration worked at the school's other campus and had been on this trip several times, five to be exact. She never got to the summit unfortunately due to - yes, you guessed it - ill fallen students, so it would've been unfair to have her take Meza down. As anticipated the two began to push and shove each other, one calling the other weak, the other taking it without any energy to fight back. I decided to head over to the dining room, not going to miss breakfast over an amateur boxing fight. Through the window I watched as Ju reluctantly picked up his bags and made his way down the mountain with Meza. How sad. I head back to my room to get my bags only realizing that we're a bit behind schedule which means fewer breaks on what was promised to be the hardest walk. Define Hell. The desert was as the name suggests a stretch of dry land with no shade in sight for kilometers on end. After what seemed to be hours of endless walking we're finally granted a break and this may have been the first time on the trip that the peak of Mt. Kilimanjaro was fully visible. No rain, no snow, no hail. Arguably the best weather I ever had on these sort of trips, aside from the freezing temperatures, but that was to be expected. In the distance I made out a figure blurred by the mirage above the hot ground running in our direction yelling "I came back for you" waving his arms. Standing ovation followed by cheers and warm welcomes from everyone, Ju was back. Kibo Hut, that is the final stage before the summit level. That is where camp is to be set. Everyone posed for a picture with the sign: "Elevation 4720m." "Vegetation Zone: Alpine Desert." "Congratulation!" without an s, just an exclamation mark in its place as though we wouldn't notice. I found that funny. Wonder if they'll ever change it. The housing situation was different. 20 bunk beds in one cramped room. Our trip leader briefed us on diner time and instructed us to be early so that we can talk about summit day and what the schedule will be like. I get in bed and do my best to get warm; it's either that or comfortable but never both. I looked up at the bunk above me, it read: "Just put one foot in front of the other...Good luck!" signed by V.Katelyn Chandler Jun.3 2017. I opened my phone again, looked at my lock screen and therein lies all the motivation I needed to make it up that mountain. "I life you."

Day 5, Is there any correlation between height and the speed at which time moves? 4 days seemed to have gone by in what felt to me half that time. Alarms sound off at midnight and our group leader is standing in the middle of the room. 20 minutes to get some soup and be outside ready for the final stretch by half past midnight. The instructions were that simple. It's dark and cold, only able to navigate with the flashlight strapped to our heads. The cyclops jokes come fast and end faster. Before I know it we're in a line making our way up a narrow path on the base of the mountain. 20 minutes in, a boy from the other campus gets sick and is forced to go down. Since none of the teachers are willing to take him he is asked to go back to the second stage with one of the porters and wait for us there since the plan is to summit and make it all the way back down all in just a few hours. How unfortunate, he was almost there. Can't help but think that could have easily been me. I'd seen him gagging a few times, trying his best to not let it out so that he could keep on going knowing that if he showed any signs of altitude sickness he would not be allowed to advance with the group. Lesson learnt, show no weakness. By this point my feet are freezing, I have on two layers of thick woollen socks, my gloves aren't heavy enough so I pocket my hands. One hour goes by, and then two, three. No breaks taken. The aim is to make it to the peak before 6:00am sunrise because when the sun comes out it reflects on the snow and blinds you if you happen to look down or anywhere for that matter. I can no longer feel my toes, nor my fingers. Ju takes his gloves off and hands them to me and so I have two gloves on. From the side of the mountain where we stood you could see well into the neighboring country, my country, Kenya. City lights in the form of orange dots. We keep walking. We passed a sign that said we're almost there. It lied and I told myself that I'm going to report it as soon as I get off this mountain. I tell Meeq I don't think I can keep walking any longer, it's been nearly 4 hours with no break and I'm pretty sure if I were to have hit my foot against a rock my frozen toes would break right off. Meeq refused to let me tell this to the group leader and kept me distracted for a little while. They're betting against me, they don't think I'll make it to the top. In fact they are confident that I won't. My mind fixated on that thought for a while. One of the porters whom I'd taken a liking to overheard this conversation and joined in. He said to me that it would be a great shame if I were to turn back now, that a lot of foreigners are able to complete the trip without much difficulty but the local people tend to easily give up. He pointed out that I was the only African left on the trip and that the other two had dropped out due to falling sick along the way. I told him I know, I was there when it happened. He said to me that it would mean a lot to him if I made it up to the top, if I summited Mount Kilimanjaro.

"Welcome to Gilman's point! Congratulations''. Of all the misleading signs along the way that has got to win the award. After 5 hours of walking non stop I was convinced that that was the peak, that we had made it. I dropped my bag to the ground, and began to hug my comrades. In the spirit of celebration I opened my bottle of water and held it out to make a toast. Before I could begin I was interrupted by the trip leader "Alright guys 5 minutes, get your bags on let's keep moving." They say Hell is hot, I beg to differ. Before I knew it we were walking again, the path layered with ice and heaps of snow on the sides. The porter reassured me that we weren't too far away from the summit now, I wanted to believe him but I'd heard those same words 2 hours ago and yet there we were, still walking. We walked past a cliff edge staying as close to the wall as we could. I stopped to turn back and look at the path we had come from. Hills of white carpet surround us, a strip of orange divides the land from the sky. It was all too beautiful, all too worth it. By this point the snow beneath our feet was thickening and so that required us to put on snow spikes on our boots to give us some grip and avoid sliding off the mountain. We were now at the top, no longer walking up the steep mountain side but walking up and down small hills making our way to a final hill with nothing visible beyond it.

"Congratulations you are now at Uhuru Peak, Africa's highest point". Just in time, the sun was slowly making its way above us. This is where the sunglasses became of use. I handed my phone to one of the porters and asked him to get a picture of me standing by the sign. A lot was going through my mind as I tried to form a smile. "You can see the curve of the earth from up here." "I wouldn't advise betting against me." "I wonder how many toes I have left." "Does he know how to take a picture? Has he taken one yet?" He handed me back my phone, taking in the view I took a few more pictures and looked at my lock screen for a brief moment and I say thank you for getting me up here. 1%, my phone dies.

I doubt myself all the time, doubt what I am capable of, doubt that I'm willing to do what it takes to get to where I want, better yet, where I need to be. But if you doubt me then I have something to prove. And if you bet against me then you're surely setting yourself up to lose. Love can be a motivating thing, and is known to push us beyond what we wouldn't have been able to accomplish on our own. Love can heal you from all ailments, conditions or circumstances that were guaranteed to get in the way of your journey. "I life you."

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