Sink or Swim

I have always been both at home in water, and terrified of it. The terror is both a warning and a siren-song lure, though. A bona fide adrenaline junkie, the unseeable and unknown are brushed off with bravado (and maybe, according to my mother, a little delusion). To me, the prospect of jumping from a rocky cliff into a lake of unknown sapphire depth (age 10), is as appealing as wandering the city of Moscow, USSR (age 14). In my twenties and thirties, I thrilled at solo motorcycle trips with nothing but cash and a tent. Now, as I seem to rapidly nearing a half-century on this planet, I do not have to go anywhere to find adventure. I have found bliss: life in a city that is itself a dangerous water park!

Spokane is the second-largest city in Washington State. We are 3/4 of an hour west of the Idaho summertime play-palace that is the city and lake of Coeur D'Alene, which feeds our lovely river. From Seattle, it is a somewhat tedious drive. Depending on the lead in your foot, expect at least 4.5 but more likely 6 hours east. Cheap round-trip airfare can be found with a little planning, and it takes less than an hour if you fly. Amtrak and Greyhound also come through our downtown.

For now, Spokane has some old-time small town feel to it, an undeniable working-class friendliness, and relative affordability. Despite an industrial history, Spokane has a wild west beauty that is far different from the sparkling, eye-stinging green of the Puget Sound area. Understand that while surrounded by semi-arid pines and mountain foothills, we are blessed with a man-eating river.

Yes, I meant to say that! "A river runs through it", and every year bodies are pulled from the river. Suicides leap into the waterfalls, daredevils get sucked into debris and whirlpools when the river is still high, careless fools drunk on sunshine and whatever when it is lower, winter drivers who slip into the icy-cold curves, and finally, of course, the murdered.

But don't let any of that stop you from enjoying our river! Ignore the signs warning about heavy metals and other poisons. The water may be gorgeous and inviting, but mining and industrial pollution before the 1970's cleanups mean you shouldn't eat the fish that have made a heroic comeback. The state also commands to rinse off immediately after water access to avoid depositing deadly residues. Frankly, the river is still healing from past abuse but it runs RIGHT THROUGH DOWNTOWN, and it is FREE TO ALL. A little lead or mercury or cadmium won't kill you.

Understand that scouting the river is a very good idea. Drive over it a few times and check the waterfalls. It is too early to get in the water if they are bone-shaking, concrete-swaying, and deafening! In a typical year, it is plenty safe enough to run the river below the falls when daytime temps have crept into the 90's. This can be as early as May and as late as the end of September, but usually June through August is river season.

I spent about $200 for a fairly decent inflatable kayak, paddle, and well-fitting lifevest (required), and I have floated from just below the last waterfall to the take-out point a few miles down several times. I've gotten lucky and never needed a helmet, although I recommend wearing one. There are indeed places that will surprise you!

Allow about an hour for a float. Common sense indicates it will be more than an hour later in the summer, and slightly less if nearly spring. Add in some time for just messing around, as there are little beaches and slower, shallower waters that promise relief from the heated sky. You can practice birdcalls in the morning, or in the shadows of late afternoon and evening, or perhaps sing an echoing tune of the sea at any time. Know that while you will have plenty of company from wildlife and other strangers (singly like me, and in groups, all in varying degrees of sobriety), the only lifeguard on the river is YOU. And people die here, all the time, every year, which is part of the river's glorious fun!

Aside from the other obvious reasons, why take the risk? Here is a physical reason: my house was built in about 1908. We supplement the "natural" air conditioning (a neighbor's mature maple tree, our own high ceilings) with a window-mounted "swamp cooler." Without the river, I would likely turn heat-crazed and murderous. You see, in my heart, I believe that a day with more than 3 hours above 85 degrees Fahrenheit should be a holiday.

I will also give a philosophic answer: it is in moments of risk that one has the opportunity to experience the triumph of successful self-reliance. I do not recommend life-threatening adventures to everyone, but I do know that without surviving SOMETHING scary, you'll never know what you might be capable of achieving.

A final note: Before launching a life of adventure, consider first riding roller coasters, or mastering the art of public speaking. If that leaves you wanting more, then do some research and head into the great outdoors! Spend a few moments with Google, perhaps booking a guided day-trip. There are several companies here that provide inexpensive, thrilling, and safe rafting so you can share my silvery, urban surprise: the Spokane River!