Norwegian fjords

The experience of many people in the Norwegian fjords comes from a boat-sailing area, but it is very beneficial to walk and explore. Of course, geography states that walking involves the ups and downs of a journey, starting and ending on the edge of a fjord. It is fun not for the depressed.

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Stavanger

Stavanger Old Town

I got into Stavanger and took my car. It is a beautiful harbor, with stilts and anchors and 18th-century white wooden houses that rise on the water's edge. It is usually full of cruise ships, but the epidemic has stopped that.

This is the Norwegian Oil City, the northern oil rigs of the North Sea, and its revenue supports a few high-end restaurants. You can eat well here, as I found out while staying three nights.

Preikestolen (The Pulpit Rock) 4 hours return

Preikestolen

Norway has long lanes of roads, and my first day led me to two roads, the longest being over 13km. I am east east of Lysefjord, 42km long and one of the most beautiful. The target here is Preikestolen or Pulpit rock, high above the fjord, and is a popular climb with people of all ages. However, it starts with a ridge, then crosses the solid sections before reaching a height of about 600m.

From this point on, you can easily cross the white granite slabs with an amazing fjord view below. Soon the rock itself emerges as you negotiate narrowly in the cliffs. It jumps out of the air, high above the water, and there are no wires or security devices. Brave souls go to the edge and perform vertigo-inducing acrobatics on cameras. I am content to take pictures of them before landing and returning to Stavanger.

Trollpikken 2 hours return

Today I drive south along the coast, the fog still clings to the coast, passing small fishing villages and isolated lanterns. In the past, this one was known as the most dangerous coastline in Norway, but today it is an exciting local trip.

An hour later, I arrived at the picturesque harbor of Egersund and headed inland. A small road leading to a small parking lot, and I walked into the hills.

There are no fjords today, just water patches filled the weird place. It is an easy climb and, just after a small lake, I am directly facing Trollpikken, a large standing stone structure named after the Troll. The vandals in the 1990's planted explosives in their area with disastrous results, but they were rebuilt. Two little girls look at their sides to get a call, and I'm glad to admit it.

Langfoss Waterfall 4 hours

I leave my place in Stavanger and head north through the tunnels and even by boat before arriving at Åkrafjorden. Sailors take a day trip here to see the Langfoss Waterfall; 612m drop making it one of the best in Norway.

Summer is dry, so there is no large amount of water, but it is still amazing, falling right into the fjord. It regularly lists the world's top ten waterfalls.

I hiked, climbing an old mountain road with a fjord and a farm on the plain above the waterfall. It goes up into the pine forest, and I stop to catch my breath just above the tree line.

Below, Åkrafjord is laid out in the valley and upstairs, and I can see the Folgefonna Glacier. At the top, I feel like I am English, the fisherman tells me that the RAF has reduced a lot of resources, it hid here during WW2. He is always looking for anything else but he is disappointed so far.

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Rullestad Glacial Potholes 4 hours

Cliff faces the Rullestad Glacial Potholes

I spend the night at Åkrafjord, and the next day the landlord is willing to show me some of the natural wonders of the area. To reach the Rullestad Glacial Potholes, it is another steep climb, followed by the rising surface of the bare rock, aided by steel ropes and chains. Fortunately, it is dry, as this should never be caught in the water.

Built on the surface of rocky outcrops, deep wells drilled with water, snow and rocks, during the last season of ice. They occur as singular, and double and many are partially filled with mud and water. Without a certain amount of fitness, they would not be able to reach them. The guide tells me that they are in the process of applying for a UNESCO World Heritage List.

Take 8 hours

Order

Driving north, I arrive at the industrial city of Odda, at the top of Hardangerfjord, the second longest fjord in Norway. Make a good base for exploring Folgefonna National Park and climbing to Trolltunga, Troll’s Tongue. This is one of the best known destinations in Norway, in part because of its longevity, as you have to allow 8-12 hours for a return trip. Early in the morning, some hikers have already gathered in the parking lot, ready to do their day's work.

It drips from time to time, and I ride on a wide trail, passing small lakes and waterfalls. The fog is rising now and revealing Lake Ringedalsvatnet below. I'm not alone, but I'm not full, and everyone has the same goal.

Troll’s Tongue is a large rock coming out of a cliff 700m above the lake, and I reach it in about 4 hours. The change in appearance makes it even more interesting, and I am encouraged to walk to the edge to get a picture.

Bergen

Bergen Quay

From Odda, I drive Northwest to Bergen, stopping to get apple juice at Spildegarden. Hardangerfjord has a microclimate that makes it ideal for fruit trees, and has had a very good harvest this year. Just outside the city is Steinsdalsfossen, another amazing waterfall that you can walk under, but there is no time to lose.

In Bergen, I feel I have reached a large city, but the location is attractive, and there is still a lot of hiking to do. So I was blown away by taking Fløibanen funicular to the top of Mt Fløyen at 320m and enjoying the amazing view.