Marlborough Sounds

We've been sailing slowly around the world since 2010, interspersed with work. In 2020 things went 'tits up', but it could have been worse!

Our Arrival

In 2020 we spent a couple of months in this wonderful area after sailing there across the Tasman Sea from Australia — a very tough passage, probably the hardest in my life — so far! [Update: the passage back to Australia in 2022 was even worse]!

Covid lockdown started in early March that year, about ten days after we’d arrived in Nelson, South Island, New Zealand. By the time formal lockdown started we’d headed from Nelson in Tasman Bay through the infamous French Pass shortcut into the Sounds proper.

The Marlborough Sounds — a place of local legends and modern-day explorers

The Marlborough Sounds is a place of local legends and modern-day explorers.

Captain James Cook’s name is revered here.

The first European settlers in the area were whalers, sealers and traders, who established whaling stations on the coast.

The region has many natural features that have attracted visitors for centuries. Some of the most popular attractions are the D’Urville Island Marine Reserve, Cape Foulwind Lighthouse, and Farewell Spit.

The sounds are also home to some of New Zealand’s most significant historic sites, including French Pass Lighthouse and Stirling Point Battery.

How to explore the Marlborough Sounds

The Sounds are located in the area between Cook Strait and Queen Charlotte Sound on the South Island of New Zealand.

The Marlborough Sounds region includes the Marlborough Sounds itself, Kenepuru Sound, Pelorus Sound and Queen Charlotte Sound.

Many visitors arrive by Interislander Ferry from Wellington, the capital of New Zealand. The ferries dock at Picton, right on Queen Charlotte Sound. There are several ferries a day and the trip takes about 3 hours and can be boisterous.

By plane: There are about 14 flights a week from Wellington to Picton. Flights from Auckland (the major New Zealand international airport) are usually via Wellington.

Surprise! It’s also possible to travel to Picton by train — via the Interislander ferry of course. This was the earlier train which we just missed:

The Sounds are a popular tourist destination, with many people visiting during the summer months to explore the area. We were not allowed to move far in our boat, and only for safety's sake when the wind changed. Groceries were bought online and delivered by a water taxi to a nearby jetty for us.

If you don’t have your own boat there are many other ways to explore this picturesque region, including kayaking, fishing trips and just relaxing on one of the many beaches. Another way is to take a scenic flight over the area and enjoy views that you can’t get from land.

If you like hiking, there are many trails, some of which are very challenging. We climbed to the top of ‘Onahau Lookout’ at the head of Lochmara Bay. 406 metres high, the climb was very strenuous, but the 360 degree views quite amazing.

Later, we were very lucky to sail through a pod of the unique, shy and rare Hectors Dolphins just outside Picton.

The Sounds are surrounded by steep hills and have many bays, inlets and islands and is a biodiversity hotspot. The area is home to many species of birds, including 61 percent of all breeding seabirds in the country with shearwaters, petrels, terns, albatrosses, gulls and shags being the most common.

When to visit the Marlborough Sounds

The Marlborough Sounds are a really beautiful place to visit. The water is crystal clear, the beaches are white and the forest is lush. The region has the highest annual number of sunshine hours in New Zealand.

The climate of this region is very mild with an average temperature of 17 degrees Celsius. The average rainfall in the area is 1,200 millimetres per year.

We were there during the autumn and early winter and the nights were starting to get cold, down to 3 C. And we didn’t have heating on our boat…

And don’t forget the vineyards

This region is world-renowned for its white wines.

It is the largest wine region in New Zealand and produces around 50% of New Zealand’s wine. Marlborough’s wines are known for their varietal styles and their fruit flavours.

The town of Blenheim is the most populous town in Marlborough, with a population of around 30,000 people. It is also home to some famous vineyards such as Mission Estate and Wither Hills.

You can take vineyard tours and sample the excellent Sauvignon Blancs, Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir wines, amongst others. Allow plenty of time!

Departure

Early one quiet morning, after two months there, lockdown was finally eased, at least for inter-island travel. We left the Marlborough Sounds through the Tory Channel and headed into the notorious Cook Strait for our voyage up the east coast of New Zealand to the Bay of Plenty.

The Cook Strait is notorious for strong tides, winds and rough seas, but we were lucky.

It’s funny. When I set out to sail round the world, New Zealand was never in my plans. Ever. And I was there for two years!

We were certainly fortunate to have been in such a safe and beautiful place when the Covid pandemic struck.

Here's another of my New Zealand tales:

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Canonical link: This story was first published in Medium on 27 February 2022