Hungry for Okinawa

Hungry for Okinawa

Okinawa, Japan, a Sub-Tropical island in the East China Sea. It is 17 miles wide at its widest point and 2 miles at its narrowest, 68 miles from tip to tip. This beautiful island boasts amazing beaches, staggering cliffs, a diverse history. Not to mention it has some of the kindest people I have ever met and known. In 1998, after Boot camp, Infantry School and MOS school, I opted to be stationed overseas and although I thought it would be a challenge, it turns out a lot of servicemen and women don't like to go overseas so I was quickly approved to go to Japan. For me, it was a requirement of my enlistment. Why would I want to stay in the US when I could travel for free? During my first year at Camp Hansen on Okinawa I was offered an incentive to stay for another year, which I accepted because I was going to extend anyway!

In spite of a lot of negative attitudes from many Marines that were stationed there (I believe for many it was more about not being at home coupled with the inability to see the opportunity that existed in front of them), I was excited to be in a different part of the world. While thousands of Marines were playing Nintendo 64 or PS 1 in the barracks, I was out creating tangible experiences.

This particular story involves a hungry Marine meandering through the streets of Naha with no Yen. Also, being that it is 1999, I have no cell phone, the internet is something I can only use sparingly and therefore human interaction is a lot more common than it is now.

Like I already stated, it's 1999 and unlike many of my Marine comrades at the time, I enjoyed venturing into the town and getting away from the Base to experience the true culture of this amazing island. For me, taking the local bus was the best option for me to do this although there were a few times I had no idea where I was or where I was going until it was the end of the line, which became the beginning of the line. So I went, every available moment I would go out into the towns and cities of this beautiful island and one of my favorite places to visit for a variety of reasons was Kokusai Street in Naha. This a mile-long collective of shops and restaurants is a fantastic place to peruse everything and anything. From people, to t-shirts, weird shoes and hairdos, it was all here in this neck of the woods and this is where our story takes place.

Having just returned from a trip to Hong Kong, I was ripe with Hong Kong Dollars (HKD) but poor in both Yen and American currency. Regardless of my financial situation, I ventured out into the city knowing that good fortune would shine on me. But, just in case, I had brought some Levi's (which are popular to sell in vintage shops) and a camera to sell if things were to become desperate.

While looking for a place to convert my Chinese currency into usable cash, I was also perusing through shops selling everything from a vegetable laden Popsicle, to Hibiscus themed t-shirts, or for the more adventurous... how about some Habu Saki (A Saki that, when displayed, is done so with a Habu Snake immersed in the Saki)? Needless to say, by the end of the mile, you can get pretty toasty if you dare and things can get crazy. Just ask my roommate about New Years 99/00, "Those aren't mozza balls!" However, today would not be a day like that and for you, the reader, be thankful. I avoided the samples and remained steadfast in my mission to observe the locals and get some cash for my stomach.

The free samples are beginning to look more enticing as the walking continues. In addition, my luck in converting this currency continues to avoid me. I am looking around at the density of people, items for sale, food, tattoo shops,and all I need is one person to take interest in my Chinese currency. I am on the brink of desperate but I haven't got to the point where I want to sell my jeans just yet. It's a Sunday so the banks are closed and as time progresses this situation becomes more dire as my stomach is rumbling in constant reminder. Then, like an oasis appearing in the middle of a desert, a coin shop appears out of nowhere. BAM! I am certain I can trade these colorful notes for some useful ones. I mean, this is what they do for business!

As I walk into the store I notice that all the display cases have a distinct consistency. Everything is in mint condition. All of the notes look really sharp, and flat, like they were fresh from the cleaners. I pull my sorry bills out of my pocket and these specimens are not looking too impressive. They are wrinkled and sad, much like the contents of a retirement home cafeteria. My notes were derelict and definitely not anything you could sell for a profit or a loss. If I had my Magic Eight Ball it would be telling me, "Outlook Not So Bright." After all the hours of walking around, it was worth a shot. Before I could discuss my intentions another problem was revealed. The Language Barrier. This woman did not speak any English and I was in the same boat when it came to Japanese. I can order a burger, but I can't articulate that I NEED one.

I unravel my sorry excuse for currency and she looks at me like, "That has no value to me." I didn't know what to do. Moving around I removed my backpack and pulled out the Levi's. Problem solved was my guess, but again, I got the look that these had no value to her. Why an eighty-year-old woman working in a coin shop would need a pair of men's Levis is beyond me but oh well. I hung my head in regret and shame, placed my Emergency Jeans back into the bag, and gave her a smile. I placed my hand on my stomach and began to rub my belly. In English I said, "Hungry," before I turned to walk out the door.

As I looked out through the glass door out onto the street, I wasn’t disappointed, but was still hungry. Then suddenly she gained my attention by making a noise. I can't really tell you what noise it was (because I can't describe it), but it got me to turn around. She motioned with her hand for me to come back and like a lost puppy I did. Up to this point we have only been able to use smiles and gestures to communicate and she somehow responded to that. She opened her cash register and handed me 1000 Yen (about $10 US at the time) which was plenty to fill my stomach. I quickly removed my pack and pulled out the jeans but she smiled and declined. I pulled out my camera to the same response. I was extremely blown away by this gesture from a complete stranger and I vowed to myself that I would not let this be forgotten.

That day I went and ate a great little Burger with some Fries at a place called MOS burger (that was always an interesting name to me because in the military an MOS is your job) and began to make plans of when I might be able to return and how I would reciprocate.

It wasn't always easy to go south to Naha and so it was every 6 weeks or so that I could make it to Kokusai Street. Each time I would go to the store she wasn't there. Instead, two older men were always sitting behind the counter but I didn't disturb them. Remaining diligent in my desire to pay her back, about 6 months later I arrived once again to the coin shop with my bag and money but as always, she was not there. I looked around the store and the same two men who were always there in lieu of her, were there again. I looked around the shop for a moment then turned to leave when one of the Gentleman, in perfect English said to me, "What do you want?" I turned and walked up to the counter where they were sitting and said, "I came in here many months ago and there was an elderly woman here who was very kind to me. I just wanted to thank her for her kindness." I thought it would be more appropriate to say she was kind rather than reveal she pulled money out of the register. He got up and left for a bit then when he came back, lo and behold she was right behind him.

Now, it had been awhile since she had seen me so she was giving me the same look as when I showed her the HKD the first time. She had no clue as to who I was until I rubbed my belly. While I was rubbing my Belly, she smiled and then I laughed. I then pulled out a box of chocolates I had brought for her and the 1000 Yen. She refused to take the Yen but she did take the chocolates very graciously. It was a great moment, one where two people who couldn't speak to each other using words, were able to speak to each other by just being kind, natural, human.

Today we have a lot of tools to help us communicate. I use technology like Google Translate nearly every day and although it has made life much easier, it has erased opportunities to have experiences like I just shared. Our technology has taken away a lot of human interaction and that's what I love about traveling; it requires you to get out of your comfort zone, to connect and therefore grow from experience. I will always remember that old Japanese lady in the coin shop. Her smile and soft heart will live forever in my journal of memories.