Finding My Heart in Lisbon

Lisbon seduced me with her colourful charm, and incredible strength. She is a city that once crumbled away after an earthquake hit one November morning in 1755. Less than a year later, after the rubble had cleared, she rebuilt herself, and painted the city with colours so bright. Like Lisbon, parts of my world had crumbed, but she inspired me to wander her streets with a heart full of hope.

Let me tell you about my perfect day in Lisbon. It starts with coffee, of course.

Sunrise with Espresso

I wake up in Villa Baixa on a mild morning in March. The sunrise peers through the gaps in the curtains, and wraps her warmth around me–illuminating my skin in hues of gold and crimson. Villa Baixa Luxury Apartments, located close to the Santa Justa Lift and River Tagus, are modern and elegant, yet, drenched with traditional Portuguese white and blue tiles, and wistful bay windows. If it wasn’t for the fact that I was in Lisbon, and eager to explore, I would have happily wandered around the apartment all morning. With an espresso in hand, I lean out of the window, and watch the sun float above the pastel-coloured buildings. Did you know Portugal is the fourth most peaceful country in the world?

Pastel de Bata

It’s nine AM, and the sweet smell of pastry swirls in Alfama’s air. My morning mission involves devouring one (two) of the most delicious egg custard tarts––a sugary treat created by the Catholic monks before the 18th century. I venture into the National Confectionery, Lisbon’s oldest and most traditional bakery, and order two pastel de natas. I bite into my first pastry, and let the cinnamon dusting cover my nose.

Wander

I wander the picturesque tiled streets with my sugar high, and get to know her favourite cafés, places to people watch, pastel de natas, and endless secrets. I discover love notes graffitied on abandoned buildings, restaurants full of laughter, and lines of washing strung out, dancing in time with the gentle wind.

I climb one of her steep hills, and see the entire city stretched out beneath me in a golden hue. Amongst the terracotta roofs, and the buildings painted pink, the sun illuminates her imperfections–cracked tiles and ruins. Kind of like how your freckles or moles are more noticeable in sunlight. Imperfect yet beautifully perfect.

Boutique Taberna

I stumble upon Boutique Taberna, a charismatic hidden bar that entices you inside with Beatles songs, and a mannequin perched in the doorway, modelling 70s supermodel hair and fishnet tights. Curious, I step inside, and I’m greeted by a room full of mismatching wooden furniture, cowboy boots, and those dusty corner lamps with tasseled shades that grandmothers used to love. It’s the kind of place you’d find a wise old man with a long grey beard, sat on a leather chair, feet up, sipping whiskey and talking about his adventures. As most bars do, it smells like leather and lingering perfume. I think about all the past memories made in here, the secret kisses, the laughter and the tears. As my mind wanders, the waitress hands me a fish-bowl glass of sangria.

Tram

I jump on one of Lisbon’s famous yellow trams to float back down the cobbled streets. With every sharp turn, the tram shrieks, and comes to a halt. I feel like I’m on a very old fairground ride–the kind that might fall apart at any given moment. There are lovers in front of me, hand in hand. The girl is pointing out the window at the patterned tiles on one of the buildings, and telling her love they should decorate their house with more colour “laranja, amerela, azul, and vermelha.”

Praça do Comércio (Terreriro do Paco)

I walk along the beautiful waterfront square–a magnificent space on the banks of the River Tagus, once home to the royal palace before the Great Earthquake. The U-shaped Square is enveloped with yellow buildings–the kind of colour that brightens up even the cloudiest of afternoons. The buildings are now home to cafés, restaurants, a beer museum, and Lisbon’s story centre. I sit outside a charming café, sip an espresso (devour another pastel de nata), and peer out at the central piazza, and its monumental, mounted statue of King Jose I. In the distance, passionate Fado songs are being chanted at the edge of the river. And in that magical moment, the afternoon sun peers through a cloud in the sky, illuminating the square in a flushed glow.

Santa Justa Elevator

As I peer up at the 147ft Santa Justa Elevator, I notice it’s resemblance to the Eiffel Tower’s architecture–iron gothic arches and geometric patterns that look tough against the soft, cottony clouds in the sky. My mind wanders to a memory. It’s May 2016, and I’m in Paris for 48 hours on a whim with my sister. We walked an hour to see the Eiffel Tower–she had seen it at least four times before, but I insisted I had to see it during our fleeting visit.

The elevator dates back to the 19th century, and was purposely built to transport people up the steep hill from Baixa district to the Largo do Carmo. I’m greeted by a suited gentlemen who opens the iron doors, and welcomes passengers into the lift. It’s decorated in rich mahogany wood–the kind that you crave during a cabin escape in the depths of winter. On the top floor is a booth and lookout with panoramic views of the city. On the bridge I find love locks (very Parisian), and find myself caught up in a daydream, admiring Lisbon’s beauty from above once again.

São Jorge Castle

High up on a mountain stands São Jorge Castle, a majestic fortress dating back over 400 years ago. There is something about a medieval castle that fills my heart with rapture. Perhaps it’s my recent love for Game of Thrones? As I wander the castle walls, I think about all the battle forts, the bloodshed, and the secrets hidden forever. I settle in front of an old stone window and peer out. I feel like I’m observing the sun-kissed city through an old pair of eyes.

Time Out Market

Ravenous, I stumble into the Time out Market, a food paradise founded in 2014 by a team of journalists at Time Out Portugal (writers get hungry for food, not just coffee). It’s like the kitchen of Lisbon–a space where everyone congregates to eat wholesome food, drink red wine, and talk about life after a long day in the sunshine. The market is drenched in the succulent smell of steak, seafood, mixed with the sweet scent of pastry. I wander through the crowds, sampling small dishes from a choice of 24 restaurants. Steak sandwiches and sushi galore.

I eventually fall into the queue at Manteigaria. Why? Because they make the best pastel de natas in Lisbon, of course. With my strong espresso and two crispy, warm pastries, I fit myself into a little nook in the corner, and watch on at the delicious hustle and bustle.

Belém Tower

As the sun begins to set, I perch at the steps of Belém Tower–a striking manuelino styled building that was constructed in 1514-1520. The tower sits at the edge of the northern bank of the Tagus River, and was once used to guard the passageway to Lisbon–defending the city from its enemies.

And as the orange sunlight dances across the stone walls, I think that Lisbon will forever have a place in my heart. She made me realise just how beautiful, and colourful, life will become after the rebuild.