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CHOPARD L.U.C FLYING T TWIN LADIES

The Chopard L.U.C Flying T Twin Ladies is housed in a 35mm case and offered in a choice of ethical 18-carat rose gold or platinum. Both options are embellished with numerous diamonds and an aperture within the dial affords sight of a flying tourbillon in motion. US-based Meehna Goldsmith examines these exquisite creations in close detail.

By Angus DaviesPublished 3 years ago 3 min read
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When people hear the name Chopard, the first thing that probably comes to mind is sensational high-jewellery: splashy jewels garnishing the bodies of women as they prance and pose down the red carpet. No question, Chopard creates some of the most jaw-dropping artistic treasures, using luxurious materials and exceptional stones.

But, did you know… Chopard took its first breath as a watch brand? In the Swiss village of Sonvilier in 1860, artisan watchmaker Louis-Ulysse Chopard set up shop under his own name. He quickly gained a reputation for crafting thin, precision pocket watches of the utmost quality. So good in fact, they caught the eye of Tsar Nicholas II of Russia, who had one in his collection.

Chopard remained in the family until 1963, when Karl Scheufele acquired the faltering business. At the time, Scheufele was buying quality movements to put in exclusive jewellery watches he was manufacturing and selling. To optimise costs and quality, he wanted to bring supply manufacture completely in house.

However, it was Karl Scheufele’s son, Karl-Friedrich, who decided to compete in the horological big leagues. He took a big swing, establishing a watch Manufacture in Fleurier, Switzerland in the early 1990s. By 1996, Chopard debuted its first calibre, the L.U.C 96.01-L: an automatic bi-directional movement with a 22K gold micro-rotor and an impressive 65-hour power reserve. Needless to say, it was a triumph. The sheer beauty and technical accomplishment won over even the most sceptical and crusty of critics.

Fast forward 25 years. Chopard continues to innovate and display its technical virtuosity, and that extends to the ladies’ watches as well. The L.U.C Flying T Twin Ladies brings together Chopard’s signature expertise in both jewelled and mechanical artistry with two limited editions of 25.

The Chopard Flying T Twin Ladies features the L.U.C calibre 96.24-L, Chopard Manufacture’s first automatic movement with a flying tourbillon. It was revealed in the L.U.C Flying T Twin in 2019. A flying tourbillon, distinct from a regular one, doesn’t have an upper bridge. The absence of the upper bridge allows for a slender movement height of just 3.30mm and also reveals the flying tourbillon whirling around.

In addition, the L.U.C calibre 96.24-L is equipped with Chopard Twin technology with two stacked barrels to increase the power reserve, as well as a stop-seconds function to allow the precise setting of the time. Not a necessary element, but one that shows sophistication and technique. And, it provides another point of interaction with the timepiece.

The dial of the Chopard Flying T Twin Ladies has a lot to live up to, especially with the impressive mechanics under the hood. Fortunately, the design team nailed it – both times. One dial uses the shimmer of textured mother-of-pearl as a backdrop for diamond-set hour markers and gilded Dauphine fusée-type hours and minutes hands. The tourbillon employs a white triangle-shaped small seconds affixed to the cage. Housed in an ethical 18-carat rose gold case measuring 35mm, the watch shimmers with a framing of diamonds on the bezel, flanks, lugs, middle and crown. The Flying Twin T Ladies secures to the wrist with a blue satin strap and diamond-set 18k ethical rose gold pin buckle.

The second version of the Flying T Twin Ladies features the irresistible dance of dazzling diamonds on the dial. Set in a platinum case, the watch is bedecked in diamonds from face and middle to interhorn spaces and flank. Even the rotor on the movement plays dress up, with its sprinkling of icy gems. The blue satin strap on this model has a diamond-studded platinum buckle to match the case.

The two 25-piece limited edition Flying T Twin Ladies have “Chronometer” and Poinçon de Genève certifications. Moreover, Chopard sources their gems and gold ethically, which means sustainably and humanely. The pursuit of beauty shouldn’t harm people or the earth. Chopard understands this level of responsibility and is blazing the trail of what luxury should look like in the 21st century.

The Chopard Flying T Twin Ladies has already proved to be quite the dazzler. For this year’s GPHG, considered the Academy Awards of timepieces, it has made the shortlist in the Ladies’ Complication category.

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