Grabbed my board
Walked down through the bush
Over the dunes
Fresh offshore
Blowing lightly
Crisp breeze
Clear lines
Pitching like just what I need
Paddling out felt the chill
First wave was such a thrill
Taking the next and hoping not to spill
Going out for more
Then looking back to shore
Plenty more in store
The spray off the back felt like an attack
At least I was the only one out the back
Sat back and tried to relax
The next wave appeared
As it reared turned into mach
Took off and felt like Poseidon
Amazing this thing that I am riding
Felt myself sliding
It was so exciting
Moving at the speed of lightning
The best feeling going into aqua turf
Even better in winter surf
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