A Bitter-sweet Visit For Animal Lovers

Going to Zao

I took a road trip with my Japanese friend during the summer to escape the Tokyo heat. We drove north to Miyagi Prefecture to visit the Zao Fox Village. Located in the forest, this secluded land preserve houses over 100 foxes as well as some other animals. The foxes walk, eat and sleep freely throughout the preserve and are so used to humans they are similar to stray cats hanging out waiting for food.

There are many reasons to go to Zao besides the foxes like to see the biggest volcanic mountain in North Japan. Some go in the winter for the great skiing and snowboarding slopes. Some visit in the summer for the hiking trails and the chance to see the famous crater lake called Okama, which changes colors depending on the season.

Zao also has great onsen or natural hot springs which contain high levels of acidic water known to help with skin conditions and gastrointestinal problems. There are wonderful views during all seasons so the Zao ropeway gondolas that glide over the hills and trees are always a good idea. Zao has camping grounds, boat rentals, bicycle and hiking trails, and even a waterfall.

But as an animal lover who adopted a stray cat, visited an elephant conservation site in Thailand that takes in old and sick elephants, and loves learning about animals, I wanted to visit the famous and only fox village in Japan. However, my visit to the fox village was bittersweet.

During my visit, although there were many foxes lying about in the summer heat throughout the forested preserve area, there were some that were either caged or chained (like the one seen in the photo). This fox was set in that box and was used every few hours for the petting show that happens every couple of hours throughout the day.

Fox Village At a Glance

The village is open to the public and costs 1000 yen ($10) to enter. Parking is free so driving is the best option as it is out of the way of any bus or train station. You can also pay 100 yen to buy bags of food to feed the foxes if you wish.

At the entrance, the staff (who only speak Japanese) explain the rules of the village and some advice on how not to get bit by the foxes. There are many pictures so even if you don’t speak Japanese you should be able to understand.

Indoor Area

The indoor part of the village has foxes and other animals like goats, horses, rabbits, and guinea pigs in cages. The cages aren’t that small but it seems a bit constraining for wild animals like a fox. I am not sure why this handful of foxes is kept in cages away from the outdoor preserve area. Possibly these foxes are sick or injured.

Since I went in the summer, which is quite humid in Japan, the foxes weren’t very active. Most of them in the cages were sleeping or sitting in place. Staff would come by with some water and some slimy, goopy food that they would place into the bowls.

Outdoor Area

The outdoor area is definitely the best part of the experience as there is a pathway that leads to a fox shrine and many small temple gates. Foxes greet you right from the exit as they casually walk by. Some are drinking water, eating food, sleeping, or lounging around staring at humans.

Since these foxes are bred in captivity, never did I feel like a fox was dangerous or making a dash towards me. They are like cats in a cat café just minding their own business and finding comfortable places to take a nap. It was nice to be able to get so close to the animals but also strange that since they were bred in captivity, they didn’t possess that wild, free, spirit that animals in the wild have.

The preserve has some wooden platforms where many of them are curled up asleep. I didn’t touch any of them because that is something the park tried to advise against. I did go right up to many of them sleeping or sitting on the platform. Overall, my experience was interesting because I had never seen a fox close up. It was really amazing to see foxes in the forest sleeping, eating, and roaming around in the outdoor and forested habitat.

In the middle of the preserve is a raised cabin that has lookout points to feed the foxes below. The foxes that are hungry or bored gather around the house and wait for fox biscuits to be thrown by tourists. Some wait patiently while others fight over the food.

The village, as expected has a gift shop dedicated to everything fox and there are some food stands outside of the village entrance as well.

The Criticism

The indoor part of the village is the only part I really felt the foxes that were caged were not happy. It was a hot summer day when I visited so maybe that’s why they seemed so drained and lifeless but it felt like the foxes on leashes or in cages were restless and distressed.

I also don’t know much about the health or appearances of foxes since they are wild animals but their fur seemed to be tattered and disheveled. Some were missing patches of fur while others looked a little too skinny. I am not an animal specialist so I can’t say if this is because of disease, seasonal changes, or lack of food.

Some will argue this village is animal cruelty or not the sanctuary that it claims to be. Maybe this is true. There has been some bad press for this village. And personally, I don’t know enough about this place or the foxes to know the truth.

From what I heard, these foxes are bred in captivity and are protected from hunters, other natural enemies, and provided with food, shelter, and wider spaces to roam than in a zoo. So they are trying to protect the foxes.

But that being said, could the place do better? Probably.

I didn’t feel the village was overcrowded like some others mentioned. Maybe because the village has changed and adapted to the criticisms of people who have visited and left reviews. I didn’t buy or feed the foxes food but they looked like dog treats.

The food that the foxes were being fed was also cat-food-like, mushy stew. Once again, I am no expert so I don’t know what foxes should be being fed. Obviously, they are hunters and probably eat rodents but this village feeds them something that may or may not contain meat.

Would I go back?

Even though I thought the area of the Zao mountains and forests were secluded and the village grounds seemed spacious and clean, maybe the fox village might have to upgrade the property and add more medical and physical activities for the foxes to keep them healthy and happy for me to return.

As it is now, I probably wouldn’t visit the village again. Hopefully, the village can keep improving and adding protections for the foxes to make this sanctuary a favorable and fox-friendly habitat. Also, since the foxes are bred in captivity, the village should maybe try to find foxes that have been displaced or are being hunted and protect them as well.

If you want more information on the village, here is the fox village website.

This article also appears here: https://medium.com/fml-or-bust/a-bitter-sweet-visit-for-animal-lovers-34edca0950d2