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The World in One Aisle

Supermarket

By Abu HaniifaPublished about a month ago 3 min read

There is a particular kind of homesickness that doesn't hit you in your bedroom at night, staring at the ceiling. It hits you under fluorescent supermarket lighting, standing in front of a shelf you didn't expect to find.

That's what happened to me on an ordinary Saturday in Osaka.

I had gone to the store for nothing special — milk, maybe some eggs, whatever was on sale before the weekend rush. But before I reached the dairy section, I got stopped by a banner hanging from the ceiling. Bright red, Japanese characters announcing a weekend meat sale, the kind of everyday retail signage you stop noticing after a few years of living here. Under it, though, was something I hadn't stopped noticing, no matter how many years pass: a shelf that didn't belong to any one country.

Boxes of Sa Giang shrimp chips, stacked three deep, crab and prawn printed in cheerful red on pale blue packaging — Vietnamese, and instantly familiar even though I've never set foot in Vietnam, because somewhere in Southeast Asia, we all grew up on some version of that same crunch. Beside them, neat rows of Taiwanese preserved duck eggs and salted duck eggs, boxed like delicacies, because here, imported from across the sea, they are. A little further down, an entire wall of sambal and chili sauce — Sriracha in its familiar rooster bottle, but also Sambal ASLI, the word "asli" catching my eye before anything else. Original. Authentic. A word that means something different when you're the one standing far from home reading it.

Then corned beef tins stacked like bricks, Korean luncheon meat in its gold tin, a bottle of Nam Ngu fish sauce standing tall and dark at the end of the row like it was guarding the whole shelf.

I stood there longer than I needed to. A man doing his weekend shopping, blocking the aisle, taking a photo of chili sauce like it was something rare in a museum.

Maybe it is, in its own way.

Working genba — on the factory floor, on-site, hands busy and eyes on machinery for most of the day — you don't get many moments to think about where you are in the bigger sense. You clock in, you work, you clock out, you go home tired in the good way and the bad way at once. Japan becomes routine. The train schedule becomes routine. Even the loneliness becomes routine, in a strange way — something you carry without noticing the weight anymore, the way you stop noticing a bag you've carried for years.

But then a shelf like this appears, and the routine cracks open for a second.

What strikes me most isn't that these products exist here. Of course they do — Osaka is a city, and cities absorb the world. What strikes me is who they're for. Not for tourists chasing an "authentic Asian experience" for an Instagram post. They're priced in yen, stocked in bulk, restocked weekly, because somebody buys them regularly enough to justify the shelf space. Somebody like me. Somebody like the Vietnamese student two train stops from my apartment. Somebody like the Taiwanese family who runs the udon shop near the station, buying duck eggs on their day off. We are, in a small but real way, the reason that shelf exists at all.

There's a kind of quiet solidarity in that. Nobody organized it. Nobody held a meeting and decided to import shrimp chips and fish sauce and salted duck eggs into one refrigerator aisle in Osaka. It happened because enough of us, from enough different countries, kept showing up hungry for something that tasted like somewhere else. The supermarket didn't build a bridge between our home countries and Japan out of sentiment. It built one out of demand — which, in its own unromantic way, might be even more honest proof that we belong here. Not as guests being humored, but as customers whose habits shape what gets stocked on the shelf.

I didn't buy the shrimp chips that day. I already had a bag at home, saved for a day when I needed a taste of somewhere familiar. But I did buy a bottle of sambal I'd never tried before, from a brand I didn't recognize, just to see if "asli" tasted the way I remembered.

It didn't, not exactly. Nothing bought in a foreign supermarket ever tastes exactly like the version your grandmother made. But it was close enough to remind me why I keep checking that aisle every time I shop — not out of habit, but out of hope. Hope that somewhere between the duck eggs and the corned beef and the fish sauce, there's proof that home isn't a place you leave behind completely. Sometimes it's just repackaged, imported, and waiting for you on a Saturday, under a banner advertising someone else's meat sale.

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Abu Haniifa

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    Written by Abu Haniifa