Where in the World is The Enchanted River?

This week’s location in the “Where in the World?” series brings us back to the extraordinary beauty that can be found on our planet. This river is not only dazzling to look at but also pulls people to its banks with its mysterious origins and tales of legendary creatures.

The Hinatuan Enchanted River

The Hinatuan Enchanted River, also known as the Hinatuan Sacred River, in Surigao del Sur, Philippines is a clear, saltwater river that flows into the Phillippine Sea and the Pacific Ocean.

Formally known as Libwak, it gained its current name “The Enchanted River” from a poem written by Modesto Farolan entitled “Rio Encantado”.

Located on the island of Mindanao, this unique waterway only measures 648 meters long, which is barely long enough to be considered a river. Its crystal waters are so clear that you can see the riverbed at the bottom, even at its deepest parts.

Its source is unknown, but there are theories of an underground cave system that allows the water to flow from its crevices, filtering out the dirt and silt that would normally cloud a river. This cave system has only very recently been explored.

The first expedition, led by Alex Santos, was in 1999. 11 years later, a more extensive quest, conducted by Dr. Alfonso Amores, Bernil Gastardo, and Emgee Guillermo, discovered underwater chambers, fissures, caverns, and tunnels. This led to six more expeditions by this team, unfortunately with the last proving fatal.

Amores was exploring a narrow tunnel branching from a chamber deemed the Mayor’s Chamber, when he went into cardiac arrest and perished in the achingly beautiful waters.

Explorers have surveyed up to 82 meters in depth, which is as deep as anyone has ventured thus far.

Legends

The locals love to share the stories of how this mesmerizing river came to be, according to their legends. One story says that fairies stirred the river with sapphire and jade wands, which left their brilliant colors behind.

It is also said that these fairies, pixies, and other mystical creatures act as guardians of the river and work to keep the river clean and clear. Mermaids are rumored to make appearances throughout the night, gliding through the water with amazing grace.

Even the trees surrounding the river are said to house nature spirits, known as “enkantos”, which are similar to elves. They are reported to take the form of pale humans with supernatural beauty.

Supernatural Powers?

As the spirits are said to be the most active and sometimes even aggressive at night, visitors are not allowed to enter the waters after sunset. Tourists are allowed to swim in certain parts of the river for the same reason.

Even with precautions being taken, there have been complaints from visitors of rashes, boils, scratches, itches, or unexplainable pain after submerging in the waters. Locals believe that this is the spirits’ retribution on people who are disrespectful towards the environment or who do not pay their proper respects.

Even more alarming are swimmers who report being grabbed or dragged through the water by some unseen force. It is rumored that if the spirits are angered enough, they can strike outside of the water by luring people into the surrounding forests, causing them to become lost.

Tourists that visit the river are instructed to only swim in certain areas, the shallower portions of the river. It has been said that at times, people have drowned in the deeper sections of the river, and their bodies were never recovered. The locals believe that spirits took the bodies in order to maintain the pristine waters of the lagoon.

Musical Fish

The fish in the Enchanted River seem to have powers of their own, as no one knows where the various species come from or where they go. They emerge during the afternoon feeding time, which has become somewhat of a ritual.

The river caretaker rings a bell, indicating that swimmers must exit the water. When all have gotten out, a song called “The Hymn of Hinataun” is played over loudspeakers. Seemingly out of nowhere, a large group of silver fish appear and come together near the mouth of the river.

Staff members throw out rice, pieces of octopus, shrimp, other meat, and scraps for the next hour until the fishy visitors have had their fill. The fish then take off and return to wherever they came from until the following day’s smorgasbord.

Tourism

The Enchanted River has become one of the most popular tourist attractions in the Philippines. The area has been outfitted with picnic tables, tents, chairs, and even cottages. A wide variety of food and drink, including fresh seafood, are also available for visitors.

Lifeguards are always on duty during swimming hours. Life vests are required to enter the water. Swimming is not permitted after 5pm when the facilities close.

The river is located about 14 kilometers from the town of Hintuan, Surigao del Sur on the eastern side of the southern-most island of the Philippines, Mindanao. To get there, you will need to fly into the Butuan City Airport and then travel via moto-bike through the jungle.

A Portion of “Rio Encantado” by Modesto Farolen

“Come darling to Encantado

Yonder crystalline stream

Flowing from a hidden spring

Deep underground below

By the bank of the Hinatuan

Enchanted river from nowhere

Let’s heed love summon

Listen to the music there!”

***Story previously published on Medium.com by the author***