Welcome to the City That Endlessly Enchants-My Chennai

Chennai, earlier called Madras, is one of the largest cultural and educational centers in South India. Located on the Coromandel Coast of the Bay of Bengal, Chennai is the capital of the state of Tamil Nadu. It has won several accolades and is reputed for being the safest city in India.

In 2015, BBC named Chennai one of the "hottest" cities in the world. I wouldn't have been too surprised if they were just referring to the scorching weather. But Chennai is on this list for its mix of modern and traditional values, making it a top city for touring and long-term living.

Over the past few decades, Madras has had a fabulous makeover to become the opulent metropolitan Chennai. But even as Chennai, with sleek modern advancements and urban sophistication, at its heart, the essence of Chennai remains the same.

While I would love to bring Chennai's incredible features into the spotlight, I don't want to paint a deceptive picture of my home. I don't believe that we need rose-tinted glasses to see the beauty of this place. So in this piece, I want to show you glimpses into the real lives of our people.

Let me take you on a virtual voyage of my beloved hometown Chennai and show you why we call it singara Chennai (singara translates to beautiful).

The architectural marvels of Chennai

Chennai is home to many fascinating landmarks that are mostly built in Indo-Saracenic and Art-Deco styles. There are museums, libraries, monuments, and remarkable heritage sites found all over the city.

Some of Chennai's other prominent structures are The Madras High Court, Fort St.George, Chepauk Palace, Kapaleeswarar Temple, LIC building, Lighthouse, Santhome Basilica, and Thousand Lights Mosque.

The Dravidian Language of Tamil

The mozhi (language) we speak is Tamil, which was born more than 5000 years ago and is recognized as the oldest living language in the world. Tamil(pronounced Thamizh) is found to be the origin of hundreds of other dialects all over South Asia.

In the spirit of frankness, I will tell you that it was not easy learning how to write Tamil in school. I am proud of my vast Tamil heritage and I enjoy speaking Tamil, but there is no shame in admitting that we do struggle with the nuances of the language at times.

While casual spoken Tamil is a breeze, thooya thamizh (pure, formal Tamil) can be challenging especially for beginners. But, as someone who has written and spoken Tamil for years, I can confidently say all the effort is worth the invigorating bliss that Tamil gives me.

The timeless fashion trends of Tamil Nadu

The traditional dress of Tamil men is a lungi which is a common bottom-wear that is wrapped around the waist and thighs. A lungi can come in different colors and is mostly worn casually. For formal occasions, men opt for the lungi's posh cousin, a suave white veshti. This can be worn with a dapper shirt and an angavastram, a piece of cloth on the shoulders.

Now, on to the women's wear. When it comes to glamming up in traditional dresses, Tamil women are spoilt for choice, and oh, how we love it! There is something enticing about the saree, a long piece of cloth draped around a woman(or man - I'm all for secure men flaunting these gorgeous garments).

A saree is seen as the very essence of Indian culture- it is elegant, graceful, and stunning. The best part about it is that people can personalize their sarees, and express their identities through them. Casual, extravagant, mysterious, bright, playful, whatever it is, there is a saree to match your taste.

Sarees come in a wide variety of materials like cotton, silk, organza, georgette, chiffon, jute, and much more, but the classic Tamil style is a chic Kancheepuram pattu(silk) saree. With the intricate work and dazzling designs, the fancy allure of a saree is unmatched.

I will also mention that as amazing as they are, sarees and veshtis can be uncomfortable for some people. These clothes can be heavy and it is not easy to move around freely in them, at least for me.

But, as much as I like wearing my comfy t-shirts and jeans, I will jump at any chance to drape these fabulous yards of perfection.

Tamil women usually wear ornate gold jewelry with their sarees. We decorate our hair with pristine flower garlands(usually sweet-smelling jasmine flowers). Another charming accessory is a pottu(a colored dot worn on the center of the forehead) which is interpreted as a third eye chakra or simply a cosmetic beauty mark.

The arts that anchor our souls

Ah, where do I begin? Right from divine Carnatic ragas(classical melodies) to upbeat dappan koothu(folk music and dance genre), I would not trade the music of my land for anything. 

During the Tamil season of Margazhi, a five-week-long music season is held in Chennai. It is rightly described as one of the world's largest cultural events, for which hundreds of artists come together to put on sensational kacheries(performances) of traditional Carnatic music.

On the contemporary side, the refreshing compositions of Ilaiyaraaja have soothed several turbulent minds. A.R.Rahman's tunes have witnessed the blossoming of many heart-warming romances. (He is globally renowned for being the music director of Slumdog Millionaire).

There is no downside here, for me to confess. Our classic Tamil lyrics are literary pearls brought to life by celestial music. I have found Tamil poems and songs to be my equivalent of Aladdin's magic carpet whisking me away to a whole new world, floating in some astounding dimension.

No matter where you are from, this unique, vibrant music can touch your heart in no time. Tamil music brings out dynamic dance moves even in people who seem awkward and uncoordinated. Ahem. That may have been a direct reference to yours truly, who often dances to herself with vigor.

Chennai is also famous for one of the oldest classical dances of India, Bharatnatyam. This is a dramatic and expressive form of dance that mainly portrays South Indian spirituality and mythical legends. Over the centuries, Bharatnatyam has evolved to include secular ideas and fusion themes.

My earliest memories of this dance are from my school days when every function would begin with a captivating Bharatnatyam performance.

The pieces of paradise we call food

Being a passionate foodie, I regularly crave "foreign" foods like burgers, pizzas, dumplings, and pasta. When I travel abroad, I love gorging on the local foods and drinks. But I cannot go more than a week without craving the food of my hometown.

The reason for this is not just that I am so attached to where I am from. Indian food, and in this case, Tamil food, is utterly delicious and healthy. I am not exaggerating when I say that South Indian cuisine is comprised of delicacies that taste like they were hand-made by angels and dropped down from heaven.

Chennai is a coastal city, and one visit to the beach is all it takes to get fresh seafood from the small-scale vendors and fishermen there. Fish fillets are great, but in most houses here, we go old-school. Once the fishes are scaled and cleaned, we coat them in a spicy batter and fry them or cook them in a decadent gravy. The crispy outer skin and the tender flavored meat is always a feast.

The key to mastering Indian cuisine lies in the seasoning. Here, if you told someone that salt and pepper were enough to season a dish, they would burst into laughter. We consume immunity-building spices like turmeric on a daily basis. With a vast array of aromatic spices and age-old recipes, even vegetables and "boring" foods are made to be delightful.

In Chennai, you can find a lot more than these original Tamil foods. We also have other favorites like Burmese atho, North-Indian chaat(Pani puri, Bhel puri, Dahi puri), and exquisite sweets of all sorts(milk sweet, gulab jamun, rasagulla, and rasamalai, to name a few).

Don't let the bright colors intimidate you. They're just a preview of the flavor explosion your tastebuds will have when you eat them.

After all this, can you tell that I kind of, maybe, have a thing for food? Just a little bit. I think I hide it pretty well.

There's always a reason to celebrate

We observe many festivals like Pongal, Diwali, Ramzan, Christmas, Tamil New Year, Easter, and Karthigai Deepam.

Each festival has its own unique history and customs. Pongal is a harvest festival during which people give thanks to God and cook pongal, a rice dish in a pot. Imagine risotto, but sweet, and rich with jaggery. As the dish boils and rises, people rejoice and shout "Pongalo Pongal!". And that is how this festival got its name Pongal(in Tamil, 'pongal' means "to boil").

People don their traditional outfits and draw kolams at the break of dawn.

Another significance of this four-day festival is to cleanse our homes of excess and declutter them, making room for new things.

Diwali is the festival of lights, which signifies the victory of good over evil. It is celebrated by lighting lamps and firecrackers. As rockets and sparklers light up the city, people spend quality time with their families and friends.

The most troubling issues with this are pollution and safety hazards. And over the past several years, people have started adopting more environment-friendly festivities to have a safer, green Diwali.

A stone's throw away from blue horizons

I live in Kasimedu, a small region on the far north of Chennai, which is well-known for its rocky beaches and fishing harbors. I can see the ocean from the terrace of my house, and it's a splendid sight to behold. On my way to college/work, I commute past the second-longest beach in the world - The Marina Beach.

And although I see the beach nearly every day, not one day has passed when I take it for granted. No matter how busy I am, who I'm with, or how stressed I am, I look out at the Marina. The ocean leaves me so bewitched and enamored, I simply must look at it.

There are many lovely beaches in Chennai apart from Marina Beach - Elliot's Beach(Besant Nagar), Kovalam Beach, Palavakkam Beach, Neelankarai Beach, and a few more. And I'm pleased to say that I've made euphoric memories at all of them.

The beaches of Chennai are always bustling with lively activities. Fishermen in their boats, loving families, blushing couples, fun-loving friends. You can find vendors selling sundal(chickpeas and crispy veggies), soan pappadi(fluffy cotton-candy like sweet), bajji (onion/plantain fritters), lime sodas, and other tasty snacks.

There are food stalls and trucks lined up at the entrance for people to relax and savor their piping hot meals while lounging on the benches. There is also a long, wide pavement for joggers and athletes to work out with a radiant view.

My mom is always amused by how we cancel out our intense exercise with a plate of calamari and prawn fried rice. Oh well, we're here for a good time, not math.

The people who make Chennai what it is

The excellence of Chennai lies mainly in its people. Sure, we now have huge malls, suave restaurants, and global-level attractions, but this is where the gold is. This is where the love and warmth is.

For the most part, the people of Chennai are friendly and helpful. The majority of us are still a conservative lot, but there is more to it than that.

There are dozens of religions actively practiced here, the major ones being Hinduism, Islam, Christianity, Sikhism, Jainism, Buddhism, and Zoroastrianism.

We are taught from a young age about these religions, and how to be respectful of them. We have learned not to discriminate against other demographics and to treat all people as human beings who deserve equal rights and consideration.

A prime example of this was during the Chennai floods in 2015. In November-December 2015, South India experienced excess rainfall during the annual monsoon, and this resulted in a tremendous flood that claimed many lives.

In this time of crisis, the people of Chennai proved that we have unity in diversity and also in devastation. Nothing mattered to anyone at that time - not our religions, castes, social statuses, or wealth. Volunteers got together to raise funds and organize rescue missions. Thousands of people helped arrange for food and other aids to be delivered to those in need.

We witnessed an exceptional rising of support in those distressing times, and it was a fine silver lining.

This is not to say that we show solidarity only when disaster strikes. Neither is it to say that no person in Chennai is prejudiced or narrow-minded. But when most of the city's 11.2 million residents co-exist every day in harmony and tolerance, it speaks volumes about the values we practice.

A closer look at home

What does home mean to me? A lot of things, or to be more precise, a lot of experiences.

Home is waking up to the sound of sparrows chirping and people chattering in my street on a lazy Saturday morning. It is the wafting aromas of jasmine flowers and delicious gravies being cooked. Of course, it is not all peachy. Home is also the smell of karuvaadu(dried, salted fish) and pollution, which don't really smell good to anyone. But it is still my home.

There are certain distinguished memories in special places that I hold very close to my heart.

The towers that watched me grow up

I get the feeling of home in a restaurant called 'Mathura'(Tarapore Towers), which is where my parents got engaged 24 years ago. My family and I would visit there at least twice a year, and wait outside on a moonlit rooftop, chatting warmly under the stars.

My little sister and I would run around the place, excitedly looking down at the cars and buses, the shimmering lights reflecting in our eyes. We've laughed, cried, fought, hugged, and had quite a ball there. They would courteously announce over the microphone "Mr. Nicholas, 8 members," and my grandfather(Mr. Nicholas) would lead our party into the restaurant where we would eat to our heart's content.

Precious family traditions like these are my home. Sadly, this era has ended as the restaurant became a casualty of the pandemic and had to shut down. (Damn you, 2020.)

The beaches that I cherish

The therapeutic roar of the waves washing over the shore, the sun's rays glinting on the silver-blue water, children's merry laughter, and the galloping of horses on the sand.

I'm not saying the beach can cure my depression, but it can uplift me and put things in perspective. When the waves gently beckon at my feet burrowed in the sand, it feels as though my worries are swept away with them, at least for the time being.

Watching the sunset with my best friends on the dazzling beachfront of Besant Nagar, laughing as though we haven't a care in the world. And then proceeding to talk about all our cares intently, because we do have them.

The Trade Fair tradition

To me, 'home' meant strolling through the Island Grounds indulging in the exhilarating vibes of the annual 'Tourist and Industrial Trade Fair'. This is famous for amusement rides, cultural exhibitions, and stores selling clothing, appliances, and other goods.

We used to sit on the floor as a family and eat a giant appalam(deep-fried lentil flour and chickpeas, spiced with pepper and chili powder).

The T-Nagar Tales

Home meant visiting T.Nagar(the shopping hub of the city) as a kid. Every Madrasi has had this experience at least once, and we all wish we could rewind time and leap into that ethereal blanket of comfort.

Walking hand-in-hand with my mom, stepping in and out of huge, grand stores like Pothys and GRT Jewelers. Sarees, salwars, casuals, formals, gold, diamonds, accessories, these shops have it all. I can't think of one thing and not find it in T.Nagar.

Can't keep calm with the whistles

Home is the uproar of 50,000 fans wildly cheering for our IPL cricket team - the Chennai Super Kings(CSK).

We treasure the memories of arriving as random strangers and becoming buddies dancing to the theme song while our Captain Cool, Dhoni sends the ball soaring into the stands.

My merriest holidays

I felt at home watching the soft, warm glow of lit Christmas 'stars' in the quaint little shop opposite my house, feeling excited about what was to come - adorning my house with a Christmas tree and a manger. I remember how I used to feel like a creative genius for using cotton as fake snow.

'Home' meant coming back from midnight church service and kicking off the new year by eating a traditional aatukal paaya(an exquisite lamb gravy stewed overnight) with my entire family. 'Home' is also me enjoying and honoring other festivals as gleefully as my own.

Countless auto rides

'Home' is feeling the chaotic wind take control of my hairstyle while speeding in an auto-rickshaw (a three-wheeled, motorized version of the cycle rickshaw, similar to the tuk-tuk).

Google Maps may be a godsend, but an auto driver here has all the best routes at his fingertips anytime. We now have majestic aircraft and smart vehicles available, but the sentiment of our rickety old rickshaws is beyond compare.

The Monsoon Mania

'Home' was the feeling of watching thunderclouds roll in, from my school classroom, knowing that in minutes, I would be splashing and frolicking with my friends. We would sway the trees lightly and squeal, knowing fully well we would get drenched.

My commute to college every day was a 33-kilometer journey from north Chennai to the south. And as grueling as it was, I saw every heavenly sunrise and sunset on my mini-tour of the city. All Chennaiites get the feeling of home when they watch the pouring rain, from a cozy window seat of a bus, listening to Ilaiyaraja's finest.

My beloved family

I find my home to be my father making his special masala chai for me with extra love and extra sugar(I really need to get a hold of my sweet tooth).

Home is my mother sensing exactly when I am upset and telling me that things will be okay. Home is my grandfather teaching me Tamil, narrating hair-raising stories of his youth, and how Chennai was back then.

My tiny kingdom

Home is my own terrace. The place that has been a steady, silent venue for all my musings about life, the place where I go to contemplate every big decision.

I look out at the picturesque houses, the faraway church, the fluffy clouds, and feel the ocean breeze on my face. On many days, I also feel the angst of crows flapping around helter-skelter.

I thought I was missing out on a lot during the pandemic and as true as that was, I was closer to home than ever. When my anxiety peaked, I watched the clouds take immaculate forms, and reveled in the splendor of the sun. I only had to look up to see the sky mimic how I felt - like my worlds were colliding.

The beauty of this sky, the uniqueness of every single day, the sheer magnitude of how big the world is. It calmed me and gave me hope.

When I started writing this, I was trying too hard to find the perfect imagery and refined words. I wanted my photos to look uber-professional and aesthetically pleasing. But that is not always the reality of my city. Chennai is far from perfect. We have our huge flaws, and I don't think we will ever be wholly "perfect", as will no other place be. And we don't have to be.

All these amazing experiences and memories are what my hometown gives me. It gives me solace and inspires me to dream big.

I'm keen on traveling to different countries, exploring other cultures, and enjoying them thoroughly. But no matter where I go, Chennai has my heart.

Chennai is a city of immense cultural heritage - it is a beautiful blend of so many different people and practices. In every nook of this place, you can see its traditions shining through. But the charm of Chennai lies in the fact that we don't need to let go of our old values to move forward in life. We can treasure our customs dearly while embracing progress and the fresher trends that we like.

The collective mindset of my society is still evolving, but I am in love with the positive changes I see today. The open-mindedness and kindness are spreading, even if it's sometimes at a glacial pace. I'm happy to say that the real Chennai is a celebration of our culture and our unity.

My Chennai may be flawed. It may be imperfect. But, it is oh-so-beautiful. It's got a long way to go. And I'm here to relish this ride into the future.