Tunis on the Gulf of Tunis

In North Africa, Tunisia borders the Mediterranean Sea and the Sahara Desert. The sprawling capital Tunis sits along Lake Tunis, just inland from the Gulf of Tunis in the Mediterranean Sea. It is the largest city in the country.

El Ali Cafe is one of the amazing restaurants in Tunis where the atmosphere and the restaurant itself is worth a closer look. This restaurant has wood-beamed ceiling, a library, sofas and a rooftop terrace that overlooks the Al-Zaytuna Mosque. The restaurant serves traditional meat dishes.

Al-Zaytuna Mosque is a beautiful mosque sitting right in the heart of the medina. Its name means “olive tree” and legend has it that the founder of the mosque Hassan Ibn Noonan taught lessons under a tree here. The open spaces of the mosque are very tranquil and you can enter the courtyard to have a look around. The building shows influences from Aghlabids, Romans, Europeans and Byzantines. The exterior is impressive with a red and white dome and marble floors. Non-Muslims can only admire the mosque from the outside and roam the courtyard.

The Tourbet el-Bey Mosque has green fish-scale like domes. Inside is an amazing combination of tiles and intricate stucco. This mosque was built during the reign of Ali Pahsa II. The male tombs are topped with unusual marble renditions of their favorite headgear whether it was a turban or chechia (small, red felt hat) and the number of tassels show their importance.

The Ville Nouvelle offers fine examples of colonial architecture. There is much to be admired in the New Town. This is where you’ll find the Cathedral of St. Vincent de Paul. This is a custard-colored cathedral dating from 1883 combining Gothic, Byzantine and Moorish elements. Regular masses are held here in French and Italian.

The statue opposite the cathedral is that of Ibn Khaldun who was the great Tunis-born Islamic teacher and philosopher.

The Bardo National Museum is the country’s top museum with a great collection that lets visitors see ancient North African life. The museum has found a home in a glorious, Husseinite palace and has now been given a contemporary addition. Some of the highlights here are a huge stash of well-preserved Roman mosaics, rare Phoenician artifacts and early Islamic ceramics. Particularly impressive are the exhibits in the Sousse Room, Odysseus Room and Dougga Room.

Medersa Mouradia – Medersas are schools for the study of the Quran. There are some fine examples of these schools close to the Al-Zaytouna Mosque. Medersa Mouradia dates from 1673. It has an ornately studded door. It’s used to train apprentices in traditional crafts.

Dating back to 1796, one of the medina’s finest former palaces is now home to the Dar Ben Abdallah Museum. The museum gives visitors a look at how the wealthy used to live n the medina. At one time it belonged to a high-ranking officer. It has a 19th century makeover in Italianate style. In four of the rooms scenes have been created to show the life of 19th century bourgeois, including tea drinking and wedding preparations. Opposite the museum is a cafe.

Dar Bel Hadj is a grand traditional restaurant housed in a 17th century mansion. It is ever a surprise when walking the narrow streets of the medina. The restaurant has a golf buggy that will pick you up and drop you off from Place de Government in the evenings.

Das Lasram is a magnificent mansion dating from the 18th century. Today it is home to the Association de Sauvegarde de la Medina, overseeing the conservation of the medina. The interior has impressive tiled rooms, medina maps, plans and photos. Outside are courtyards.

For something completely different head for Dah Dah Happy Land Park. This is an amusement park with plenty of rides. It is part of the ever developing, trendy district of Berges de Lac. You can take a stroll up and down the interesting corniche or coastal road.

Theatre de l’Etoile de Nord is a fringe theater that has found a home in an ex-garage. They offer regular plays in French and Arabic and concerts from reggae to heavy metal.

Parc du Belvedere is a park with lovely trees like Aleppo pine, carob trees, olive trees, fig trees, and palms. It is a great place for strolling.

The park is also home to the Tunis Zoo. This is a child-friendly zoo in a shady, peaceful setting. Among the animals you can view are monkeys and colorful parrots.

Take the time to visit the beautiful Andalusian-style seaside neighborhood of Sidi Bou Said. This place became popular when three young painters lived here – Paul Klee, August Macke and Louis Moilliet in 1914. They captured the beauty of this area on canvas. Today it remains a sort of bohemian artists’ quarter. Visitors delight in the white-and-blue streets, cliff side cafes and lovely shoreline.

Visit the Marche Centrale a covered market which sells fresh produce, olives, harissa and cheese.

To really experience the city visit one of the bathhouses like Sahib Hammam Bathhouse. This is the oldest and most atmospheric hammams or public bathhouses. It can be recognized by its candy-striped red and green doorways and domes.

Carthage is a Punic and Roman site that lies northeast of the city. Here you can see remnants of ancient Carthage, once the wealthy, seafaring city of the Phoenicians on the Bay of Tunis. You can see tumbled columns and many different kinds of ruins. It offers a lovely seaside setting. You can see fantastic views from the top of Byrsa Hill.

The National Archaeological Museum shows the former glories of the site like monumental statuary, mosaics and other amazing things. On the grounds of the museum you’ll also find The Byrsa Quarter, an excavated quarter of the Punic City.

The Mosque of Sidi Mahrez is one of the finest in the city. It was built in 1692 and named after Tunis’ patron saint. His tomb lies opposite the entrance. The mosque is a great example of Ottoman architecture. Its cluster of white domes is impressive.

Tunis Medina or Old Town is an adventure itself with ancient streets and alleyways. Here you can find cave-like souqs that sell everything from shoes to shisha pipes. There are lovely tiled cafes, back streets full of artisans at work and residential areas with brightly painted doorways. There are also a number of ancient bath houses.

The main entrance gate here marking the end of the new city and the beginning of the old is known as Bab el Bahr or Sea Gate. It was built in 1848 and was known as Porte de France during the colonial period.