Thimphu on the Thimphu River

Bhutan is a Buddhist kingdom on the eastern edge of the Himalayas. It is a country known for its monasteries, fortresses or dzongs, and dramatic landscapes. The capital and largest city, Thimphu lies in a valley in the country’s western interior. The city is the seat of government and is known for its Buddhist sites.

Tashichho Dzong is an impressive fortress that sits on the west bank of Wang Chhu. This was the site of the formal coronation of the fifth king in 2008 and it hosts the city’s biggest annual celebration, the colorful tsechu festivities. The name of this dzong means Fortress of the Glorious Religion. It was once home to the National Assembly and now is home to the Secretariat, the Throne Room, and the offices of the King and the Ministries of Home Affairs and Finance. The whitewashed two-story outer structure has three-story towers at all four corners that project out over the walls. On the eastern side, there are two main entrances. The southern entrance leads to the administrative section and is off-limits to visitors. The northern entrance leads to the monastic quarter, the summer residence of the dratshang or central monk body.

For a colorful adventure head for Thimphu’s Weekend Market which is located on the west bank of the Wang Chhu. Vendors arrive on Thursday and stay until Sunday night. You’ll find a large variety of items like souvenirs, clothing, incense, spices, and different kinds of food.

Changangkha Lhakhang is a popular fortress-like temple that sits on a ridge above central Thimphu. The temple was established in the 12th century on a site that was chosen by Lama Phajp Drukgom Shigpo. It is traditional for parents to come here to get auspicious names for their newborns or to get blessings for their young children from the protector deity Tamdrin. Children are blessed by a phurba or ritual dagger and given a sacred thread. Inside are impressive murals. If you give the resident astrologer your birth date he will consult divination charts to decide which kind of protective prayer flags will benefit you. Take the time to see the shrine to the tshomen or mermaid in the central courtyard and see the great views from the back kora or pilgrim path with its beautiful black and gold prayer wheels.

National Memorial Chorten is a large Tibetan-style chorten or stupa (a mound-like or hemispherical structure that contains relics). This is one of the most visible religious structures in Thimphu and for many Bhutanese the focus of their daily worship. This whitewashed chorten is decorated with richly painted annexes that face the cardinal directions and features elaborate mandalas, statues. and a shrine dedicated to the popular king.

The National Textile Museum is the city’s best museum and is part of the Royal Textile Academy. This is the place to get to know about Bhutan’s living national art of thagzo or weaving. The ground floor displays wedding clothes worn by the fourth king and his four wives. On the upper floor, you can learn about major weaving techniques, styles of local dress, and types of textiles made by women and men. In the museum shop are some interesting books and fine textiles. No photos. Across the courtyard is the Royal Textile Academy conservation center, where visitors can observe a small group of weavers working on their looms.

Simtokha Dzong was built in 1629 by Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal. It is said that this site guards a demon that had vanished into the rock nearby. That is why it was given the name Simtokha from simmo (demoness) and do (stone). This site was also placed in a strategic location to protect the Thimphu Valley and the entryway to the Dochu La and eastern Bhutan.

Tango Goemba was built by Lama Drukpa Kunley in the 15th century. Today it serves as a university for Buddhist studies and is the residence of Gyalse Rinpoche, an important trulku (reincarnated lama), who is recognized as the seventh reincarnation of the fourth desi (secular ruler) Gyalse Terizin Rabgye (the founder of Taktshang Goemba. This is a popular place to visit during the memorial of the death of Zhabdrung Jigme Chhogyel in April or May and is known as the Zhabdrung Kuchoe.

The National Institute of Traditional Medicine was established in 1978. Here you can find medicinal plants collected from remote corners of the Bhutanese Himalayas, such as Lingzhi, Laya, and Lunana. At the institute pills, tablets, ointments, and medicinal teas are made. The small museum displays some of the 300 herbs, minerals, and animal parts that Bhutanese doctors choose from. Of particular interest is yartsa goenbub (cordyceps), the high-altitude “Himalayan Viagra” which is actually a caterpillar that has been mummified by a fungus. This unusual “worm root” sells for up to $25,000 USD per kilogram in China. If necessary and you don’t feel too well the on-site clinic can prescribe all-natural medicines or treatments free of charge.

A huge 51m-tall steel statue of Buddha Dordenma stands at the entry to the Thimphu Valley. In the massive three-story base is a large chapel and inside the body itself are 125,000 smaller statues of Buddha. The massive Buddha looks at its best in the morning light and at night when it’s illuminated. This statue was made in China and reassembled in Bhutan. The paved road that leads to the site, also known as “Buddha Point” passed by a Hindu temple and is also a popular biking route. Nearby is a 3.5km mountain bike trail. This area is also called Changri Kuensel Phodrang after the former palace of the 13th Druk Desi which once stood here.

The National Library was established in 1967 to preserve ancient Dzongkha and Tibetan texts. It offers impressive architecture and you can see some great historic photos. On the top floor is a copy of a letter sent from the Druk desi or secular ruler to the British army officer and surveyor Samuel Turner in 1783. On the top floor are also traditional books and historic manuscripts and includes texts from the famous Tibetan printing presses of Derge and Narthang. There are scriptures from all religious schools. Most of the books are Tibetan-style, printed or written on long strips of handmade paper stacked between pieces of wood and wrapped in silken cloth. The carved wooden blocks used for printing the books are also on display.

It takes 45 minutes to hike up to Cheri Goemba, Bhutan’s first monastery. The monastery was established in 1620 by Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal. This is an important place for meditation retreats, with 30 monks living here for three years, three months, and three days. The goenkhang (chapel dedicated to protective deities) features the two protector deities of Cheri and Tango. Then it’s a steep climb to the Demon-Subjugating Monastery, built into the cliff where the Zhabdrung overcame local demons. Keep an eye out for tame brown gora (mountain goats) grazing on the monastery grounds.

Motithang Takin Preserve was originally established as a zoo but since the fourth king decided that a zoo wasn’t in keeping with Bhutan’s environmental and religious convictions the zoo was closed. The animals were released in the wild but the takins, Bhutan’s national animal were so tame they took to roaming the streets of Thimphu looking for food. The solution was to make a preserve for them. As you go up the trail you get to a large fence enclosure where the takins can now live in peace.

The Royal Botanical Garden at Serbithang is just a few minutes drive from Thimphu. It is a wonderful place to visit during the spring and summer. There are various kinds of flowers and medicinal plants and it is a great place for a picnic. The garden is located on the side of a hill offering great views of Thimphu Valley. You can look over the Bhutan landscape and see temples, monasteries, stupas, prayer wheels, and colorful prayer flags.

The Royal Botanical Park at Lamperi is also known as the Rhododendron Garden. It is the first botanic park in Bhutan and forms the backdrop of the Dochula Pass. This is a nature reserve that is rich in flora and fauna. You can feel close to nature here and listen to birds twittering and the distant barking of a Barking Deer. Among the species that make their home here are monal pheasants, blood pheasants, musk deer, tiger, leopard, red panda, and the leopard cat. The Rhododendron Garden offers 46 species of this flower. The park has various vantage points, trekking routes, a lake, and a canteen.

You can also enjoy the Dochula Pass which is a mountain pass in the snow-covered Himalayas within Bhutan on the road from Thimphu to Punakha. Along the way, you can see 108 memorial chortens or stupas known as “Druk Wangyal Chortens”.