Tales from Tashkent

From 1999 until 2018, there was a significant gap in my international travels. I'm not exactly sure why this gap occurred, but it was likely due to a combination of factors, primarily financial constraints. Regardless of the reasons, travel was not something I indulged in during those years. However, in 2018, I finally took my first holiday and fell in love with the experience. Being in a foreign land, surrounded by unfamiliar cultures and sights, opened my eyes to a whole new world. Since then, I've been following a pattern of increasing my number of international trips each year.

In 2021, an exciting opportunity came my way to travel to a truly different destination. In late September, I flew from London to Uzbekistan, specifically to attend the Tashkent Film Festival. Although the festival itself is not the focus of my story here, I want to share my experiences in this wonderful country and with its amazing people.

One prevailing misconception I had about Uzbekistan was that it was predominantly a desert country, with communities of people living alongside camels. When I think of deserts and camels, Egypt automatically comes to mind, and Uzbekistan never really crossed my thoughts in that context. Interestingly, this was one of the most common questions posed to me by the people of Tashkent: Did I expect to find only people in deserts with camels when I arrived? However, this idea couldn't have been further from my mind. Prior to my trip, I had conducted extensive research on Uzbekistan, watching numerous videos on YouTube to gain a good understanding of what awaited me. Yet, as I descended into the city, a sweeping metropolis surrounded by desert, it was impossible not to be struck by the stark differences and unique atmosphere of the place.

Contrary to its sandstone appearance from above, Tashkent's ground reality didn't match my initial impressions. I saw a sprawling metropolis that combined old, dated buildings with ultra-modern complexes. Alongside the roads, there were historical museum-like structures, each holding its own secrets. I even encountered a sign advertising a brand new Riverside complex, despite the absence of an actual river. It turned out they were planning to create an artificial river to justify the construction of the Riverside complex. Tashkent, like many Central Asian countries, had a mix of the poor and ultra-rich. The city boasted both rundown cafes and upscale restaurants with caged birds. Nightclubs were ubiquitous, a concept that was uncommon only a few years ago due to the limited practice of drinking. Yet now, in this brave new world, one could enjoy drinks, dance, and return home in the early hours of the morning. As someone from the United Kingdom, it seemed strangely surreal to visit someone staying at a hotel or a friend's place at 11:00 PM. However, in Tashkent, it was a common occurrence.

Our second night in Tashkent brought about a truly strange experience. Our days were filled with various activities, including an unforgettable party where we indulged in copious amounts of vodka. On our second night, we had planned a city tour, and our organizer arranged for some students to guide us. I had heard a lot about Tashkent's railway system, particularly its unique and beautiful underground stations. Thus, early in our evening adventure, I expressed my desire to visit one of these stations. Although I can't recall the exact station we first entered, I distinctly remember its grandeur with large pillars and chandeliers, meticulously clean surroundings. The idea of taking photos in the station arose, and while some waiting passengers found it strange, we proceeded with the photo session. Soon, we caught the attention of a young female student and a male companion. They approached us, expressing curiosity about our presence and asking what brought us there. It became apparent to them that we were Westerners and definitely not from Central Asia. We explained that we were from the UK and attending the Tashkent Film Festival, which included a city tour to explore the beautiful train stations. The female student appeared overwhelmed and requested selfies with us, eagerly sharing details of her life and the changes occurring in her country. As our conversation progressed, more and more people surrounded us, and we realized we were now encircled by about twenty enthusiastic individuals from this beautiful country. While we felt flattered, it was equally surreal and bizarre to witness their amazement and overwhelming desire to engage with us simply because we came from a different place. As we bid farewell to all these wonderful people and boarded our train towards Cosmonaut Station, we exchanged bewildered glances, contemplating the bizarre experience of being in a country where people were thrilled to have conversations with foreigners.

Like many Central Asian countries, Uzbekistan was once part of the Soviet Union and has since undergone various forms of dictatorship. Over time, with the changing political landscape and the departure of many dictators, these countries have embarked on a journey of exploring newfound freedoms, embracing modernization, and experiencing the overwhelming impact of these transformations. In Tashkent, it's hard to walk down a street without encountering major construction projects. These are not minor developments, but rather awe-inspiring buildings that leave you in awe. For the youth of this country, every day presents exciting opportunities. During my visit in 2021, I faced difficulties accessing Microsoft-related services, and Twitter was completely blocked. However, I've heard that since then, young Uzbeks can now access Twitter and use Microsoft products.

Another peculiar aspect of visiting Tashkent was the importance placed on physical strength by the people of Uzbekistan. Every street, arcade, and social gathering spot had a punching bag for people to test their strength and outperform their peers. In Western countries like the UK, we often focus more on mental strength than physical prowess. Throughout my trip, I managed to avoid hitting the punching bag until my final day in the country, when I succumbed to peer pressure. Ethically, I've always believed in resolving conflicts through peaceful dialogue rather than resorting to violence. So, at the age of 48, I found myself throwing a punch for the first time in my life. Needless to say, it didn't go well, and my score was far from impressive. Nevertheless, I complied, feeling like a sheep following the lead of my fellow travelers.

The stark contrast between prices of different products in Tashkent was also striking. Some items were incredibly cheap, while others were ridiculously expensive. Each day, our driver would be taken aback when I gave him a $20 tip for chauffeuring us around. On our last day, he insisted on treating us to the traditional dish, Plov. However, as two of us were vegetarians, we had to forgo the meat. Even then, including drinks, this satisfying meal cost less than $10. It was at this moment that I realized I had been over-tipping our wonderful driver, and it explained his elation at the end of each day when I handed him his tip.

During our adventures, we discovered that having a meal with alcohol could cost as little as $8. On our first night tour, five of us enjoyed food and drinks at a corner-side cafe, which amounted to approximately $18. The food was delicious and incredibly affordable, even cheaper than any other place I had visited in the world.

On the other hand, purchasing a suit in Tashkent would cost as much as, if not more than, buying one in the UK. Electrical products were about 25% more expensive than in the UK, and telecommunication costs were also notably higher. It reminded me of the 1990s when phone plans offered only 60 minutes of calls at exorbitant prices. I distinctly remember turning to one of my fellow travelers and exclaiming, "Oh my goodness, look at the cost of that!"

Towards the end of our adventure, one of my travel companions and I set out in search of Magic City, a peculiar shopping center theme park that had recently opened on the outskirts of the city. We embarked on a mile-long walk along a heavily fortified road, later discovering that it ran alongside the president's house. No wonder the police presence was so substantial, and two pale-looking Westerners like us must have created quite a spectacle and potential risk. At the end of our journey, we arrived at Magic City—an eccentric anomaly with a shopping center designed around European and American cities, centered around a Disney-like castle. Western culture was making its mark with the presence of KFC, Burger King, Starbucks, Calvin Klein, Pink, and other recognizable brands. Some shops were replicas of iconic landmarks like Big Ben and Tower Bridge, while others resembled French châteaus. There was even a giant replica of Samarkand opposite what I can only describe as a New York street, complete with an upcoming giant aquarium. The place offered amusement rides and indicated a focus on recreation. A massive multiplex cinema with mock red carpets and a selfie spot, where the sound of countless cameras triggered simultaneously, added to the ambiance.

Reflecting on my experiences, I wonder if we, as human beings, have been granted too much freedom. However, when I observe the people of Tashkent, excited about their future and delighted to have Western visitors, embracing wonders like Instagram, taking selfies, and simply enjoying life in parks rather than merely using them as thoroughfares, I question my doubts. Amusement arcades with video games and, of course, punch bags were ubiquitous. There was still a lingering sense of the past in Tashkent, a fear of punishment, resulting in low crime rates and minimal vandalism. The people I encountered were simply reveling in life, cherishing each moment. Ultimately, isn't that what we all aspire to do? To live positively and enjoy life? So, if you're considering a trip to Central Asia or somewhere vastly different this summer, I highly recommend Tashkent. It will leave you awe-struck.