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Sunny Seville

Spain’s hottest city is a treat

By Matty LongPublished about a year ago 7 min read
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To continue my series regarding budget travel advice, I’m very happy to describe my recent experience in Spain (and Europe’s) sunniest city, Seville, which is a fantastic treasure trove of culture, food, drink and … sun!

With regards to the titular adjective, one of the main attractions of Seville during November was the Goldilocks zone weather. As a result of being the hottest city in Europe, it is lovely and warm yet off-season this time of year. I, for one, wouldn’t want to visit in the middle of summer during the sweltering heat. And being off season also meant flights from the UK were incredibly reasonable. But the best value for money that I instantly found was the accommodation. We stayed in a hostel in the little section called Triana, which is known for its market and relaxed atmosphere. I didn’t expect much, but was greeted by a lovely room with a balcony, enough bathrooms per floor that ours was essentially private, and a lovely roof terrace where the staff (who hailed from Italy and Argentina ... don’t think I met any Spanish staff) served the best Sangria I had in my time there. This worked out at less than 20 Euros a night.

The first place I visited in Seville is not something that comes up on the recommendations but was an interesting walk. It was the remains of the Expo ’92. Lots of gigantic models of spaceships etc. but essentially a ghost town. I believe some parts of it are used by university students and the far end was a water park. But I just can’t recommend it enough. So vast yet so abandoned. I was fascinated by it. Like something off a twilight zone episode just over the bridge from the town centre. It wouldn’t be the first place I’d mention to people in normal conversation, but I feel the need to include it anyway.

After walking for a fairly long time and getting lost in this vast ghost town, we eventually located the old town, thirsty for wine and tapas. But at a terrible time to be feeling this way. When visiting Spain, learn quickly that siestas take place, on average, between 12-2pm and 5-7pm. This is no worry, as all the cultural activities I will later describe can easily be undertaken during this time. After more walking, we eventually began the first of many wine crawls. I’m a big fan of wine, but I’ve never experienced it like this. Buying a bottle would be odd. Instead, as the wine is all local and so very cheap by the glass, I recommend travelling from bar to bar ordering glasses of wine and tapas to accompany them. A nice Rioja was what washed down the first set of tapas we had. Which included one of the nicest plates of food I’ve ever eaten. Calamari is always good, but here it was next level. As is the patatas bravas, such a simple yet vastly superior option to chips. But the highlight this night was the Iberian-style whisky pork. I don’t know how this became a Spanish staple, as it sounds American, and I’ve had many different dishes cooked in Bourbon in my time. But this was absolutely next level. Go to Spain now and order it!

After every meal, we would order a carajillo. I like Irish coffee, but usually with milk and lots of sugar. This take, with brandy and black coffee, however, is just what you need after a meal; I’ll never look back. It was also an absolute fraction of the price I’d expect to pay for an Irish coffee anywhere else.

The next day, now that we were accustomed to the Spanish ways, involved a visit to some of the sights. The first of these was the bullring. It wasn’t bullfighting season, but incredibly reasonable tours are available and there is a fascinating museum. The maddest thing for me, however, was that it felt like a tour of something historical, yet it still goes on. Take from that what you will.

Next, the absolutely enormous Seville cathedral. The world’s largest Gothic church, this was beautiful to behold. It is also the resting place of Christopher Colombus, who has a very interesting tomb whereby his coffin is suspended on the shoulders of the statues of four Spanish rulers. Apparently this was because, being Italian, his own people said if the Spanish (who funded his travels) wanted to keep his body, then they could no inter him in Spanish soil. After this, we climbed the Giralda, the bell tower converted from a former miranet as the Cathedral was once a mosque. Because of this, there are no stairs but endless ramps to get to the top. Excellent for wheelchair and buggy access I though, only to be greeted by a staircase at the very top! As well, of course, as lovely views of the city, and an absolute heart attack when the huge bell sounded.

Food near the cathedral consisted of Oxtail and more squid, and I marvelled at all the little statues in gift shops that resembled members of the Ku Klux Klan ( a traditional Spanish festival attire that was appropriated by the clan, I’d like to highlight). But dinner that night was to be taken underneath the giant mushrooms, a controversial expensive wooden structure (the biggest in the world), that lights up beautifully at night and watches over lovely little restaurants including more whiskey pork, and a dish that I wouldn’t have thought would taste so good – grilled octopus. Cooked very rapidly but with various different qualities of texture and flavour. I had to have this twice.

The next morning we visited Naboo. Not the planet from Star Wars, rather the location where it was filmed. This was my personal highlight. It was free to enter, and is a vast and beautiful palace, the Plaza de Espana, that celebrates each and every region of Spain through little courtyards with maps, artwork, coats of arms and little shelves for books. I would love to see a Newcastle version. Entrance to the top of the palace is free, as is the lovely free music from bands and entertainment from Flamenco dancers. Stunning. Much better than Naboo, in fact.

After more wine and tapas, I learnt to appreciate the hostel life even more, when we went back to relax and made some friends from around the world – South Korea, Canada, America. After playing cards, we decided to go out, finding some Scots and a local who was happy to guide us. I envy the Spanish attitude to drinking, as they have it just right when it comes to not taking it too far. You’d go one night out to the square late on and there would still be families with kids. Because nobody is getting mortal, some nice wine, nice food. It’s just nice. I want to be like that but unfortunately, I’m British. I think I was realising why our obvious Britishness put so many waiters off serving us, to be honest. But I’m not complaining. I was very content to embrace their culture.

I would highly recommend the water gardens, where the Dorne scenes from ‘Game of Thrones’ were filmed, but we couldn’t get tickets in time. Instead, we just embraced the culture, until it was time of course for more food. I had to try the paella of course, which was very reasonable yet a very small portion. However, I can’t emphasise how filling it is. If you’re going to share a paella, you better have a big appetite each. But it was the final night of tapas that sealed the deal for me. Baked camembert with savoury ice cream sounds weird but it was the nicest thing I had eaten the entire visit. And goat’s cheese with honey. How did they make hone taste so good? More followed, and more patatas bravas. So much more we ordered that the waiter informed us that we wouldn’t eat it all as we tried to order a second octopus (the things the Spanish get away with! And yeah, we ate that octopus … a defiant struggle).

The next morning I was greeted by a beautiful sunrise but I was very sorry to see Seville go. I rarely say this, because my list is so long, but I’d go back in a heartbeat. No way is anywhere in Britain going to serve you an octopus that cheap!

budget travelcultureeurope
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About the Creator

Matty Long

Jack of all trades, master of watching movies. Also particularly fond of tea, pizza, country music, watching football, and travelling.

X: @eardstapa_

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