Philly in a Day

So, you're in the City of Brotherly Love for just one day.

(Philadelphia, that is.)

(Philly, to the familiars.)

Well, take it from a local - you don't want to waste time trying to figure out where to go once you're already there. Things move pretty fast in Philly, and if you're stuck standing in someone's way, or going too slow across a crosswalk, or just bumbling around trying to get yourself oriented, you'll quickly learn how my city earned it's nickname - the city of brotherly 'shove.'

My wife and I just recently went to Philly together - a surprise trip which she planned, and her first time visiting the city of my youth! I got to show her all of my old stomping grounds, as well as many of the city's unique pockets of culture, history, and food. This quick tour of recommended spots is based heavily on how we elected to spend our own brief window of time in the City of Brotherly Love - I hope you enjoy, and can glean some insight for if you ever choose to visit my beloved hometown!

First things first, you're going to want a good breakfast for your long day in the city.

Enjoy the abundance of greenery woven into this area as you take the bus downtown. There are SO many trees, all throughout the central/south Philly area - both in little parks and just dotting regular streets. Find a breakfast spot somewhere along the river to grab a quick coffee and bacon egg and cheese. I'd give you a specific recommendation, but finding a random spot on some corner on your own is just one of the joys of exploring Philly. The standard for breakfast sandwiches is pretty high downtown, so you should be safe just about anywhere you end up.

Now that you're fueled up for the day, you've GOT to visit the Philadelphia Art Museum.

THE PHILADELPHIA MUSEUM OF ART

I can already hear readers complaining, tuning out, closing this tab, throwing their laptop out the window in disgust, et cetera.

Just give me a chance here.

I KNOW that 'Art Museum' doesn't exactly scream 'thrilling,' 'must-see,' 'life-changing...' but TRUST ME on this. The Philadelphia Museum of Art is a magnificently composed collection of incredible work from so many eras, backgrounds, and styles. It makes you think - it makes you grow - it makes you reflect - it might make you weep. Take my word for it. You want to see full sets of Medieval English armor? Oliver Cromwell's broadsword? They've got it. A full scale recreation of a Japanese tea garden? Also there. A thousand year-old well from a moldering monastery in France? Done. And at the moment, they've got a couple of Van Gogh's sunflowers.

If it still sounds boring to you, I posit that you need to become a more interesting person. This place will really make you think deeply about beauty, history, and your place in both of those things - if you'll let it. My wife and I both consider our time spent in this place (which ended up being over three hours) to be a highlight from our whole trip.

Once you're out of the Museum, as well as being a better, wiser, deeper, and more attractive person, you will ALSO be very hungry. And there is exactly one place you'll have to go to remedy that.

THE READING TERMINAL MARKET

You've got to check this place out. One does not simply visit Philadelphia and NOT go to the Reading Terminal Market. Picture an incredibly wide and remarkably low-ceilinged warehouse, absolutely jam-packed full of chefs and artisans of all varieties and backgrounds. Stalls and bars and tables and shelves fill the space like the Room of Requirement. The narrow channels between all of the vendors are usually full of tourists and locals alike, all in search of coffee, lunch, gifts, or keepsakes. I've gotten absolutely delicious chicken korma there, as well as the best soft pretzels of my whole life. It smells incredible and horrific, depending on the spot - and on the temperature that day. It's unbelievably overstimulating. It's positively elating. A paradox of an experience, and one which you have to commit at least an hour of your Philadelphia day to. Grab a lunch of any variety. Every option is a good one at the Reading Terminal.

THE MAGIC GARDENS

Now, the title 'Magic Gardens' is a *smidge* deceptive. For one thing, I did not encounter a single wizard whilst there. Secondly, there are remarkably few plants there - because this place is in fact one of the greatest works of 3-D craftsmanship in the entire United States.

Yes, this is the second art-related activity of the day. Yes, the author of this article is an art-interested person. (In other words, cool.) If you'd rather spend your time getting wasted doing young-person stuff, be my guest. (Incidentally, Philadelphia does have a TON of Irish pubs - there are more pub locations than there are Starbucks, which in our capitalist utopia is a truly remarkable feat. So please do check out a pub or two, if you can swing it.)

But ANYWAY, back to the Magic Gardens. This place is a whole maze of concrete, steel, tiles, sculptures, paint, glass, and plants. It is psychedelic as all get out, and so uniquely creative. The story of the artist behind it is a seriously incredible one, which I won't get into here. Just trust me, the Magic Gardens are a place worth spending an hour or two of your Philadelphia day in.

THE HISTORIC DISTRICT

If you're a history fan, then you've got to check out the Historic District. The title of this area speaks for itself; Philadelphia is a city rich with national, historical significance for the United States. Take some time from your afternoon to see the old Statehouse where the Declaration of Independence was signed. You may even be able to book a tour, if you're early enough! Stop in to see the Liberty Bell, in all its glory. While you're at it, say a prayer for the soul of the nation. Reflect on the fact that eight of the signatures on the Declaration belonged to immigrants; ten more, to the children of immigrants. Oh, how far we have fallen, America.

JOHN'S ROAST PORK

There's only one way to follow up a rabidly-idiotic-political-policy-inspired existential crisis, and that's with a load of beef and cheese. Cheesesteak for dinner isn't necessarily the typical move - but hey, you've only got 24 hours in Philly, and you've already had lunch at Reading Terminal. So swing by south Philly to John's Roast Pork for one of the absolute best cheesesteak experiences that the city has to offer. The roast pork sandwiches after which the joint is named are pretty freaking stellar, too, if you've got the stomach for another bite.

RITA'S WATER ICE

However full you are with cheesesteak, you have to make room for this post-dinner sweet. If you aren't familiar with the term, 'water ice' refers to an absolutely delectable, Philly-originating (I think? Don't quote me...), Italian-ice-adjacent frozen dessert. It's made of blended ice and flavoring agents - but the mixture is frozen WHILE being slowly blended, resulting in a magically smooth and silky texture. It's impossible to describe well, you've just to go get the stuff for yourself. Make sure you try some of Rita's custard while you're there, too; my wife tried in for the first time on our recent visit, and immediately admitted it was the best frozen custard she had ever tasted.

Rita's is the gold standard for Philly water ice - and there's a Rita's just about five minutes in every direction in the city. It's one of those rare instances where the chain company actually does produce the best of a given product. And it makes the perfect closer to a rich day on the town in Philadelphia.

If you've still got life in you at this point, the late evening makes for a great time to check out some of the aforementioned Irish pubs. Spend the home stretch of your twenty-four hours in Philly grabbing a local brew, throwing some darts, and catching an Eagles game if you're there in season. Savor that day in Philly, friend, and appreciate the food, artistry, personality, and fierce friendliness of the city of my growing-up years.